im f*ucked ill PAY someone to help with t-56 install
#51
Don't take this the wrong way....as I KNOW personally how frustrating almost any project on a vehicle can become..but if you get this frustrated on your own vehicle...beware of wrenchin' for a livin'... cause it can get ALOT worse..
As for the swap....I've done several auto to 5 speed swaps in 3rd Gen's....and most of them took longer than one day only because time constraints or running back and forth to get parts I'd forgotten.
As for lining up the transmission...if you've used the clutch alignment tool, and that part is done...try this..
With ALL four corners of the car on jackstands, as high and as even as you can get it, get the tranny up on the jack...
Now borrow another jack and use a block of wood between it and the oil pan on the engine...slowly jack the engine up until it's level again, as the engine tilts to the rear when you remove the tranny... it'll make getting the tranny in MUCH easier, it shouldn't need to be forced.
ALSO...if you seem to have it almost all the way in, but can't get the last little bit, make sure all your clutch hydraulics are hooked up, and have someone push the clutch pedal in while you're underneath sliding the tranny in...this can help get it in the last little bit.
AS for cutting the floor for the shifter...
Measure from the the front of the bellhousing to the front of the shifter on the tranny itself. Now measure this off under the car, and make a mark w/ a punch or knock a small hole in the tranny tunnel.
Now measure how big of a hole you need to make. Then drill a few holes right in line with the punch mark you made in the tranny tunnel, then just get some tin snips and cut it out....it's very easy with some decent tin snips.
As for mounting the pedals, master cylinder...what I do is swap to the manual pedals...and I use the braces on the pedal that hold the U bolt as a guide...and drill through the holes in the braces to make the holes in the firewall....once the pedals are in you'll also see where the hole is needed for the master cylinder / pushrod...I used a 1.5" holesaw attachment on a drill and never had an alignment problem.
As for the swap....I've done several auto to 5 speed swaps in 3rd Gen's....and most of them took longer than one day only because time constraints or running back and forth to get parts I'd forgotten.
As for lining up the transmission...if you've used the clutch alignment tool, and that part is done...try this..
With ALL four corners of the car on jackstands, as high and as even as you can get it, get the tranny up on the jack...
Now borrow another jack and use a block of wood between it and the oil pan on the engine...slowly jack the engine up until it's level again, as the engine tilts to the rear when you remove the tranny... it'll make getting the tranny in MUCH easier, it shouldn't need to be forced.
ALSO...if you seem to have it almost all the way in, but can't get the last little bit, make sure all your clutch hydraulics are hooked up, and have someone push the clutch pedal in while you're underneath sliding the tranny in...this can help get it in the last little bit.
AS for cutting the floor for the shifter...
Measure from the the front of the bellhousing to the front of the shifter on the tranny itself. Now measure this off under the car, and make a mark w/ a punch or knock a small hole in the tranny tunnel.
Now measure how big of a hole you need to make. Then drill a few holes right in line with the punch mark you made in the tranny tunnel, then just get some tin snips and cut it out....it's very easy with some decent tin snips.
As for mounting the pedals, master cylinder...what I do is swap to the manual pedals...and I use the braces on the pedal that hold the U bolt as a guide...and drill through the holes in the braces to make the holes in the firewall....once the pedals are in you'll also see where the hole is needed for the master cylinder / pushrod...I used a 1.5" holesaw attachment on a drill and never had an alignment problem.
#52
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Originally posted by porkyzilla
**** i wsa going to pay a mechanic to do it for me ****in shady ******* i am going to cal the california bar assoc if my pilot bearing or input shaft is bent he dropped it and hella **** i kick him out of my house and iddnt pay him anything... right now the tranny is so close sitting on a jackr ight now... i didnt remove the shifter but my dremmel cant get int here tin snips suck...any other methods people used??? the bellhousing is on the engine right now
**** i wsa going to pay a mechanic to do it for me ****in shady ******* i am going to cal the california bar assoc if my pilot bearing or input shaft is bent he dropped it and hella **** i kick him out of my house and iddnt pay him anything... right now the tranny is so close sitting on a jackr ight now... i didnt remove the shifter but my dremmel cant get int here tin snips suck...any other methods people used??? the bellhousing is on the engine right now
#53
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
Originally posted by 88 350 tpi formula
huh? so this guy drop your trans?
huh? so this guy drop your trans?
#55
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Car: 91 Rs Convertible
Engine: 383, Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T56
Just completed the swap myself (yes all by myself, from start to clutch to transmission in and moving the car). Car runs awesome. Just trying to fix the speedo with the Dakota box. I live in San Diego...let me know! The only small problem I have is the clutch seems to push the fork and throwout bearing too far and slighty rubs when pedal is fully depressed.
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
back from the dead ok might as well update...
ok just got done workin on it actually its so close i can smell it...i got to finish bolting up the steering column...and bolt the spohn torque arm to the rear...put in the batter, bleed all 4 brakes and shes done... those pedals are such a bitch omg...and the master u bolt holes were way off the first time i drilled them so i had to redill those, and i dont know how many times i ended up taking out and putting back in those 4gen pedals..but all in all a hudge pain in the ***..
ive run into nothing but problems every part of the swap...sheesh...
is anyones reverse hard to get to?? mine i have to push the console to get it to go in
ok just got done workin on it actually its so close i can smell it...i got to finish bolting up the steering column...and bolt the spohn torque arm to the rear...put in the batter, bleed all 4 brakes and shes done... those pedals are such a bitch omg...and the master u bolt holes were way off the first time i drilled them so i had to redill those, and i dont know how many times i ended up taking out and putting back in those 4gen pedals..but all in all a hudge pain in the ***..
ive run into nothing but problems every part of the swap...sheesh...
is anyones reverse hard to get to?? mine i have to push the console to get it to go in
#57
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Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Originally posted by porkyzilla
is anyones reverse hard to get to?? mine i have to push the console to get it to go in
is anyones reverse hard to get to?? mine i have to push the console to get it to go in
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
Originally posted by iansane
That's the reverse lockout noid. There's a connector on the rear portion of the tranny (driver side) right next to the shifter face the front of the car. If you power that, it'll go into reverse easier. Wire that up to you brake light switch if you like.
That's the reverse lockout noid. There's a connector on the rear portion of the tranny (driver side) right next to the shifter face the front of the car. If you power that, it'll go into reverse easier. Wire that up to you brake light switch if you like.
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Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
That's sh*tty about the console thing. Do you have the auto shift plate in the car?
As far as the no male connector thing, mine didn't even come with a female connector; it was all busted up and broken off. I just epoxied the whole top closed with wires soldered in there. Works for me now...
As far as the no male connector thing, mine didn't even come with a female connector; it was all busted up and broken off. I just epoxied the whole top closed with wires soldered in there. Works for me now...
#60
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
i havent tried it with the plate in there but right now its hard to get to
as far as the reverse lock out can someone show me a picture of the connector and where it is on the trans
as far as the reverse lock out can someone show me a picture of the connector and where it is on the trans
#61
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Car: 86 IROC-Z (daily driver) 87 IROC-Z (under construction)
Engine: 305 H.O.
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by porkyzilla
can someone show me a picture of the connector and where it is on the trans
can someone show me a picture of the connector and where it is on the trans
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
can anyone take a picture of their connectors for the back up lights...and the reverse lock out??
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Car: 89 iroc-z 5.7tpi 350,
Engine: 5.7tpi 350,
Transmission: T-56 fully built WOOHOO
well i know why now that it was such a pain in the *** to install and why it wouldnt go and why the clutch was so difficult well
they sent me a v6flywheel i took it to a shop after it wouldnt go into gear so it ruined my clutch....oh well im laughing now all that bitchin and complainin and it was only the wrong flywheel....
they sent me a v6flywheel i took it to a shop after it wouldnt go into gear so it ruined my clutch....oh well im laughing now all that bitchin and complainin and it was only the wrong flywheel....
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