trans rebuild
#1
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: t-5
trans rebuild
well im tired of having only two gears in the car since i lost the 3/4. still lots of fun wooping up on the imports at the lights but just cant go over 50........ any way i havnt worked on a transmission before. all i want to know for right now is where can i find a quality rebuild kit that wont dip into my pocket too much. i wanna replace all the clutches and just about anything that comes with the kit. oh yea, i have a 1987 IROC 305. thanks for the help
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
First you need to do some reading. I highly recommend the Haynes GM Automatic Transmission Overhaul book. This will familiarize you with how an automatic works, and what the parts do, as well as let you know if you're getting in over your head.
Several specialized tools are required to rebuild an auto trans. That's something to consider, because unless you know someone who has them that will let you borrow them, you will have to buy them.
I've heard good things about the NAPA rebuild kits. Pro-Built is really the guy to ask though...
Several specialized tools are required to rebuild an auto trans. That's something to consider, because unless you know someone who has them that will let you borrow them, you will have to buy them.
I've heard good things about the NAPA rebuild kits. Pro-Built is really the guy to ask though...
#3
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Car: 1986 Iroc z28
Assuming trans is a 700r4
I just rebuilt both transmissions in my two cars last summer. Other than basic hand tools and a pair of snapring pliers, I woulcd suggest the repair manual. Make sure you keep parts neat and organized as it is easy to get parts confused. I found that out the first trans I did. Ended up takeing apart the trans twice. Your local parts store should be able to get you a rebuild kit however the are not the best qaulity. I ordered my kit through Jegs for like $150 +s&h. Good luck
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Didn't you need a press to get the trans apart and back together? How did you relive the pressure on the clutch pack springs?
#5
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Car: 1986 Iroc z28
there was a peice way at the back of the trans that had springs that you needed that tool for, but there were no clutch packs back there. The tool it self is like $70. Basicaly the trans is put together with a lot of snap ring.(700r4)
Last edited by camaro_60181; 01-04-2004 at 11:45 AM.
#6
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Yeah, I know. I'm going to be rebuilding the one in my Blazer soon, so I'm trying to get an idea of what I'm going to need. The book I read says that you need a press, but I watched my buddy rebuild a C6 once, and he used this tool that locked into the case lugs and had a threaded rod on it that he used to compress the springs. He didn't know where he got it though, because it was his dad's. Is this what you used? If so, where did you get it? I'd like to have one.
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Car: 1986 Iroc z28
I got it from parts city a local store here. I assume you have a 700r4 in the blazer. if you do you realy don't need this tool. I've rebuilt the trans missions in both of my cars last summer and didn't even use the tool. Basicaly i wasted $70 for a tool I didn't need.
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#8
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
The Blazer runs a 700R4. So, if you didn't use the tool how did you put downward pressure on the springs to remove the snap ring that holds the clutches into the drums?
#9
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Car: 1986 Iroc z28
there is no pressurre on the clutch packs, just snaprings. That tool is only for a set of sping way in the bottom of the trans, but there is no clutchs behind it. if you going to replace those springs then you need the tool. If your replacing the clutch packs all you need is snapring pliers.
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
You're talking about the low/reverse clutch piston. I would want to replace the seals on it, so I guess I will need the tool.
I looked through the diagrams and instructions again, and you are totally right. You only need to compress the springs if you want to remove the clutch pack pistons. I'll probably do this, because the trans needs to be 100% up to snuff, and better than it left the factory. I'd hate to have to go back into it for something I didn't do while I had it apart.
The truck has a built 350 with Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, a Crane roller cam, and a hybrid fuel injection system of my own creation. Then engine dynoed in at 375 HP and 455 lbs/ft. I ran the stock trans with a converter and a shift kit for 25,000 miles before it blew. It's a beast.
I looked through the diagrams and instructions again, and you are totally right. You only need to compress the springs if you want to remove the clutch pack pistons. I'll probably do this, because the trans needs to be 100% up to snuff, and better than it left the factory. I'd hate to have to go back into it for something I didn't do while I had it apart.
The truck has a built 350 with Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, a Crane roller cam, and a hybrid fuel injection system of my own creation. Then engine dynoed in at 375 HP and 455 lbs/ft. I ran the stock trans with a converter and a shift kit for 25,000 miles before it blew. It's a beast.
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Oh yeah. I was drving along on I95 one day when this ***** in a Porsche Boxster tries to cut me off. I floored it and kept him boxed out in the other lane. We come to a section of open highway and he tries to outrun me. I just kept it pinned, and he couldn't out accelerate my truck. I was a fender ahead of him until we hit 100 MPH, when I finally decided that I'd had enough. I figure that's pretty sick for a fullsize K5 with 31" tall tires and 3.08 gears.
Now I've got a full floating rear with 4.88s and a Detroit, plus rear discs. Eventually I'm going to run 35" tall tires with a 6" lift, but once I get the trans done I'm going to run it down the strip with the 31s just to see what it'll do. I'll probably have to run it in 4 wheel drive to get any traction though!
I've got a whole 4x8 workbench that will be dedicated only to the trans during the buildup. I'm **** retentive with that stuff, adn a total neat freak to boot. I think I'm going to buy a parts washer too, because the thought of cleaning each piece with brake cleaner is not pretty.
Thanks for the info!
Now I've got a full floating rear with 4.88s and a Detroit, plus rear discs. Eventually I'm going to run 35" tall tires with a 6" lift, but once I get the trans done I'm going to run it down the strip with the 31s just to see what it'll do. I'll probably have to run it in 4 wheel drive to get any traction though!
I've got a whole 4x8 workbench that will be dedicated only to the trans during the buildup. I'm **** retentive with that stuff, adn a total neat freak to boot. I think I'm going to buy a parts washer too, because the thought of cleaning each piece with brake cleaner is not pretty.
Thanks for the info!
#13
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Car: 1986 Iroc z28
I think I'm going to buy a parts washer too, because the thought of cleaning each piece with brake cleaner is not pretty.
#14
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
It seems to keep the "spare" parts to a minimum after you've finished rebuilding something!
#15
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: t-5
im pretty set on doing this myself, i rebuilt my motor with out any help and with just a book so why not the trans.
what tools am i going to need, how long did it take you guys to do your rebuilds
what tools am i going to need, how long did it take you guys to do your rebuilds
#16
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Car: '86 Camaro, '02 WRX, '87 K5, '67
Engine: 350 TPI, 2.0turbo, 383 in the works, 289-4BBL, 232, A-head 4-cylinder
Transmission: T56, 5-speed, 700R4, C4, T176, semi-auto 2-speed
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.90, 4.88, 3.55, 3.54, 7.00
Get a good set of outside snap ring pliers, a dental pick, a set of metric sockets, and the usual assortment of persuading implements (pry bars and hammers). If you plan to replace the clutch pack piston seals you will need the tool to do the low/reverse piston, and a press. Having a parts washer will make it a lot easier, but you can also use two cases of brake clean and compressed air.
camaro_60181 help me out if I forgot anything.
camaro_60181 help me out if I forgot anything.
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Car: 91 RS, 00 TA Ram Air, 86 IROC
Engine: 305 tbi, LS1, 355
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E, 700R4 NonLU
I have built many powerglides for my dirt track car and it has a similar arrangement for the reverse clutch piston. I made a tool from 2 pieces of flat stock, a piece of 8" long 3/8" allthread rod, and a 2" emt electrical conduit compression fitting. It worked pretty well. Maybe this would work for a 700R4?
#20
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clutch spring compresssor
I found this compressor. It is used on the piston retainer at the rear of the case. And the price is right at about $30.00
http://automotivetools.com/cgi-local...ff+1077750870:)
http://automotivetools.com/cgi-local...ff+1077750870:)
#21
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
I wouldn't think of rebuilding one without replacing ALL of the clutch seals. Heat and age deteriorate these things, then they can't hold the proper amount of pressure in the piston and cause a premature failure of the clutches.
Everyone likes Pro-built because he knows what he's talking about, he's very helpful if you have questions, etc... I think he puts together all the kits he uses. There are some parts in the kits that just aren't quite as good, and he puts better stuff in the kit. One example is the viton input/output seal. It's simply a better part than what comes standard in most (all?) paper and rubber kits.
I can get everything that he puts in his kits from the same I get the parts for stock rebuilds at the shop, but I will most likely buy a kit from Pro-built because of the detail he puts into selecting components.
Everyone likes Pro-built because he knows what he's talking about, he's very helpful if you have questions, etc... I think he puts together all the kits he uses. There are some parts in the kits that just aren't quite as good, and he puts better stuff in the kit. One example is the viton input/output seal. It's simply a better part than what comes standard in most (all?) paper and rubber kits.
I can get everything that he puts in his kits from the same I get the parts for stock rebuilds at the shop, but I will most likely buy a kit from Pro-built because of the detail he puts into selecting components.
#22
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Car: 1986 Iroc z28
found this compressor. It is used on the piston retainer at the rear of the case. And the price is right at about $30.00
#24
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first of all, probuilt sells his rebuild kits.
www.Pro-built.net I beleive.
Second of all, there are things that need to be done besides just putting new components in. Chances are you are going to want to re-use some hard parts like the pump and input drum, or whatever else. some things need to be checked for perfect flatness, some things need sanding and polishing. Ill let someone else explain that stuff, im in the middle of my Pro-built Rebuild myself using his kit, its pretty nice I must say.
www.Pro-built.net I beleive.
Second of all, there are things that need to be done besides just putting new components in. Chances are you are going to want to re-use some hard parts like the pump and input drum, or whatever else. some things need to be checked for perfect flatness, some things need sanding and polishing. Ill let someone else explain that stuff, im in the middle of my Pro-built Rebuild myself using his kit, its pretty nice I must say.
#25
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
No, pro-built sells kits, and complete rebuilt units, and he has a pretty decent warranty IIRC.
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