jonarotz

iTrader: (26)

I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with the "Beast" sun gear shell? Is it worth the price?
I have heard things for and against the 3/4 clutch update kit (8/9 frictions) What do you guys think?
Is the 29 element sprag much better than the 28?
Thanks for your input guys!

Pro Built Automatics

I was wondering if anyone has had any luck with the "Beast" sun gear shell? "Yes, and I have had good success with the HD GM sunshell".
Is it worth the price? "It's your choice, about $43.00". I have heard things for and against the 3/4 clutch update kit (8/9 frictions) What do you guys think? "It depends on what clutches are used. I solved this problem (3-4 clutch failure) years ago. I use the Borg Warner Hi-Energy's. 8 for Street/Strip, 7 for the road race, and 9 for Strip only. I have had two or three 3-4 clutch pack failures in the last 6 years that I can think of".
Is the 29 element sprag much better than the 28? "Yes, less drag, therefore less wear when setup right. It must be in excellent shape to start with, and you must polish the inner race to a mirror finish, and the outer race must be roughened up with 40 grit". I hope this helps.

jonarotz

iTrader: (26)

Pro built, I have heard that the corvette servo can cause a "shift bind" with the 3/4 clutch on upshifts and downshifts that is what creates the firm shifts.
Basically the added apply area of the servo allows it to apply quicker, which in turn allows it to apply before the 3/4 clutch has fully released or visa versa. Is there mods I can do to the separator plate to allow the two to bleed faster to prevent this and is this the corrective action?
Do you know where I can get a "road map" or schematic of the separator plate?
I also heard that this shift binding causes premature wear/failure among the input sprag and the sun gear shell. Does any of this sound correct? Is that why they put beefier sun gear shells and bigger sprags in these units?

Pro Built Automatics

Sometimes this can happen, but only when the 3-4 clutch pack has to little clearance. In most csaes when istalled on vehicles that have some miles on them, they can improve the 2-3 shift. On my units I keep the 3-4 clutch clearance at around .045" - .060". and the 2nd gear band clearance at a minimum. The Trans-Go Performance Shift kit address' this. I have never heard of the other things you are talking about. The Shift kit instructions tell you where to drill & block holes. If you are putting in a Corvette servo only, & nothing else, you won't need any other instuctions to do this, and the chance of a 2-3 shift bind is minimal, unless you just had the transmission rebuilt & the 3-4 clutch pack is at .030" - .035" clearance.

jonarotz

iTrader: (26)

Pro-built,
I am rebuilding my trans. now, I installed the Borg-warner high energy frictions (.062") and .059" steels. I set clearance to .056. Do you think that this will be OK for use with the Vette servo?
Can you tell me the clearance for the Reverse-input clutch?
I can't seem to find it.
Thanks Probuilt for all of your advice!

Pro Built Automatics

.056 is fine. I set the reverse/input clutch clearance to .035 - .065.

jonarotz

iTrader: (26)

One more question and I will try to stop bothering you, I was going to upgrade my pump to the 13 vane, but after hearing others opinions about it I an staying with the stoock 10.
Well what should I replace?
The entire assembly, just vanes, just rings, just seals?

Pro Built Automatics

You should replace everything. And if the aluminum surface is tore up where the slide/rotor ride you will need to send the pump out to a machine shop and have it redone. You want a very smooth "flat" surface, and on the pump body, you want a .0015-.002" max. clearance for the rotor/slide assembly. The pump and body must be completely disassembled, and throughly cleaned before you do this. The 10 vane setup is fine. I just noticed you are using the .062" BW Hi-E clutches, instead of the .080", with this setup, you should have 9 clutches when you are done.

jonarotz

iTrader: (26)

I saw that you used 8 for street/strip and 9 for strip only applications. Were you talking about the normal .080" or the thin .062"?
If you are talking about the .080" how do you get 8 & 9 frictions to fit?

Pro Built Automatics

If you are using a 1988 & up input drum, then you can get 8 .080" BW Hi-E's in there. You wind up with the 5-tang holder, 2 - .128 pressure plates, 8 - .080" BW Hi-E's, 4 - .078 steels, 4 - .060" steels, and a .062" snap ring. This should give you the right clearance of .040" - .060". With the 9 pack, you will use the 5-tang holder, 2 - pressure plates, 9 - BW .065" Hi-E's, 4 - .080" steels, 4 - .060 steels, and a .062 snap ring, same total clearance.

jonarotz

iTrader: (26)

Would 9 be too much for street?
do you just intermix the .060" & .078" steels?
Do you put 1 .125 plate on the bottom and one on the top?
Do you toss the stepped apply plate out?
Thanks again!

Pro Built Automatics

Would 9 be too much for street? Depends on how much torque & horsepower.
do you just intermix the .060" & .078" steels? Use the .060" steels toward the top of the clutch pack.
Do you put 1 .125 plate on the bottom and one on the top? Yes.
Do you toss the stepped apply plate out? Yes.

jonarotz

iTrader: (26)

I know it has been a while, but I finally got around to setting the 3/4 clutch up. I performed the stack up you described and ended up with no clearence.
I went ahead and stacked it up like this:

5 tang plate
.128" plate
.080 High E friction
.078 steel
.080 High E friction
.078 steel
.080 High E friction
.078 steel
.080 High E friction
.078 steel
080 High E friction
.060 steel
080 High E friction
.060 steel
080 High E friction
.060 steel
080 High E friction
.128 plate
.062 snap ring

This gives me around .043" clearance.

So I used (8) .080" BW high E's, (4) .078" steels, (3) .060" steels,
(2) .128" Plates, and a .062" snap ring.

Will this work?
instead of installing a steel between the lower apply plate I was just going to let the friction ride against the apply plate, do you see any problems in doing this?

Thanks

Captain C

Pro-Built: Which of your transmissions would you reccomend for a daily driver that is dragged once or twice a year? The car (3850# with driver) makes about 380 hp and 420 ftlb torque? I have already trashed two trannies with 7 clutches. I would like to get 100K out of a tranny this time instead of the usual 35K....

PS: Is the 12" Continental the only lock up converter you carry? Can it be had with a 2500 rpm stall????

Pro Built Automatics

I always let the friction ride on the apply plate, with no problems. The transmission I would recommend, is the Street/Strip unit, or the Road Race unit, depending on how you drive.

Captain C

That was pretty much what I figured. I haven't been to the Grudge Match races at Famoso for a couple of years now, But might go back once or twice after I get a good transmission, a rear end that can handle slicks, and an Accel DFI computer. Otherwise, I already know what the car will do.

I love to pass people but the car gets absolutely no traction with street tires so stop light style racing is not something I do. I do love to nail it hard when merging on the freeway.

I do dislike a neck-snapping shift. It gets really irritating after a while and it's hard on these wimpy stock rearends. However, I do want the transmission to last. I keep trashing 3rd & 4th gear and I am just getting really tired of working on this car..... I'm leaning toward the Road Race trans, but I like the 8 disks in the Street/Strip versus the 7 in the Road Race. From what I have read in the threads above, it looks like you are using the same thickness (.080) in both transmissions. Is this a correct assumption? The shift quality is a real concern.

Also, do you require a core? I am running an 89 unit currently....