hanlon motorsports t-5 rebuild kits
06-08-2003, 06:18 PM
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Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
hanlon motorsports t-5 rebuild kits
has anyone used them?...
i WANT to do this myself but i also dont want to mess up..
im gonna get the video to but is there anything else i should know before gettin in to this
what does the kit come with?....i was looking at there site and i can find what is included
thanks guys
i WANT to do this myself but i also dont want to mess up..
im gonna get the video to but is there anything else i should know before gettin in to this
what does the kit come with?....i was looking at there site and i can find what is included
thanks guys
06-09-2003, 10:12 AM
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06-09-2003, 10:58 AM
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I bought a kit from them. Make sure you tell Linda that its a Chevy T5. I had that problem and they sent me a Ford input shaft and front bearing. Also order the video. It will help out a lot when it comes time to reassemble everything. All those washers, spacers and clips can get confusing. If you put one in the wrong place, it wont go back together properly. Trust me, I know...
06-09-2003, 11:31 AM
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I did mine a couple of years ago, and yes, they (Linda and Bob) were extremely helpful!
Awesome customer service, and they really know what they are talking about.
You can't go wrong with Hanlon!
My 2 pennies for the pot...
Awesome customer service, and they really know what they are talking about.
You can't go wrong with Hanlon!
My 2 pennies for the pot...
06-09-2003, 01:38 PM
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Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
i ordered it about 10 mins ago =)
with the video was it hard to do?..i mean i know they go step by step but it is difficult to do or am i being paraniod
i knew i should of layed off the reefer
with the video was it hard to do?..i mean i know they go step by step but it is difficult to do or am i being paraniod
i knew i should of layed off the reefer
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06-09-2003, 04:28 PM
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I'm usually on as "alloy", but my account is screwed up. I'm telling you this because I'm referring you to my "alloy" post in a thread.
Follow the link below and read my "alloy" post in this thread. You will need a few special tools, but it's all explained in the video. You will also have to take some parts to be pressed off and back on, but the video will walk you through it step by step. So if you know which end of a wrench to use, you should be fine. If not, post questions here and someone will be sure to help you.
Just be patient and do not tear the trans down until you get the video.
As yes, stay off the reefer
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=t5%2A+rebuild
Follow the link below and read my "alloy" post in this thread. You will need a few special tools, but it's all explained in the video. You will also have to take some parts to be pressed off and back on, but the video will walk you through it step by step. So if you know which end of a wrench to use, you should be fine. If not, post questions here and someone will be sure to help you.
Just be patient and do not tear the trans down until you get the video.
As yes, stay off the reefer
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=t5%2A+rebuild
06-10-2003, 01:16 PM
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06-10-2003, 04:02 PM
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I completely agree. And you do this you have the tools for the next time something like this comes up.
I was quoted $1200 to for my trans from a shop. I own a machine shop and my free time is limited for this kind of stuff, but even at my $60 per hour shop rate taking time off work I saved money by doing it myself. And, I probably did a better job of it that the shop would have. There any many posts about people having their T5's rebuilt and them only lasting a few thousand miles. I've got around 5000 on mine now and and 6 autocross events with 2 drivers in my car on my trans, and it still shifts better than it did when it was new.
Do yourself a favor with all that money you save by doing it yourself and go get a Hurst billet plus shifter for $165 from Jeg's. You would be amazed at what a difference this makes.
I was quoted $1200 to for my trans from a shop. I own a machine shop and my free time is limited for this kind of stuff, but even at my $60 per hour shop rate taking time off work I saved money by doing it myself. And, I probably did a better job of it that the shop would have. There any many posts about people having their T5's rebuilt and them only lasting a few thousand miles. I've got around 5000 on mine now and and 6 autocross events with 2 drivers in my car on my trans, and it still shifts better than it did when it was new.
Do yourself a favor with all that money you save by doing it yourself and go get a Hurst billet plus shifter for $165 from Jeg's. You would be amazed at what a difference this makes.
06-23-2003, 06:34 PM
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Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
i watched the video once already..and im gonna watch it again before i do it..
one question...these tools you were refering to..
were they the dial indicator, a caliper., and the roll pin driver...thats what is needed correct?..i didnt see anything other then that
the only think im not looking forward to is the pressing parts
one question...these tools you were refering to..
were they the dial indicator, a caliper., and the roll pin driver...thats what is needed correct?..i didnt see anything other then that
the only think im not looking forward to is the pressing parts
06-23-2003, 07:07 PM
#12
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I didnt use a dial indicator at all. I did it all by feel. When I felt a drag, I went with a thinner shim.
Make sure when you put the tail housing on that you dont have the 5th/reverse rod in a bind. You wont be able to get the tail housing on and you will curse yourself when you find out why.
The top cover is a true B I T C H to get on. make sure all the sliders are in the neutral position. Put a little trans fluid on the shift pin assembly (the pin that moves the shift forks) and life will be a lot easier. Also, put a lot on the rod that goes from the top cover through the tail housing and into the shifter hole. Trust me... Thank me later.
Make sure when you put the tail housing on that you dont have the 5th/reverse rod in a bind. You wont be able to get the tail housing on and you will curse yourself when you find out why.
The top cover is a true B I T C H to get on. make sure all the sliders are in the neutral position. Put a little trans fluid on the shift pin assembly (the pin that moves the shift forks) and life will be a lot easier. Also, put a lot on the rod that goes from the top cover through the tail housing and into the shifter hole. Trust me... Thank me later.
06-23-2003, 10:11 PM
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Well I guess you could do it by feel, but it's not a good idea. There is a specific preload called for on the bearings, and without the dial indicator there is no way to check for end play, and then choose the correct shim to set the preload. If you do the rebuild yourself you are saving hundreds of dollars, and a dial indicator is $20 from Enco Mfg. Why not get one and use it to do the job correctly?
The pressing is best left to a shop that has the bearing spreader and press plates. If you don't have a press setup, don't even try to back yard it. You will end up breaking something that will probably cost more to fix than paying a shop to press the parts in the first place.
The pressing is best left to a shop that has the bearing spreader and press plates. If you don't have a press setup, don't even try to back yard it. You will end up breaking something that will probably cost more to fix than paying a shop to press the parts in the first place.
Last edited by machinist; 06-23-2003 at 10:17 PM.
06-23-2003, 10:18 PM
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Car: Bright Red 91 GTA
Engine: CARBED LT4
Transmission: MK6
i wasnt gonna back yard it lol.. i meant the closet machiene shop is like 15 miles away
i have the caliper already so i just need to get the dial indicator
i have the caliper already so i just need to get the dial indicator
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