plastic throw-out bering???
04-09-2003, 11:55 AM
#1
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plastic throw-out bering???
I put a new clutch in my 91 camaro last summer. And the throw out bearing that came with it was made out of meteal AND platic. The plastic part was the back section that the fork attaches to. And the metal section was the front the presses against the plates. Well I thought that looked cheap so I went to the GM dealer and bought and OEM all metal one. I thought I was the master for getting great part. Well I put it and and everything went fine until the ride home. I started to hear a squeeking noise from the clutch. If I gently put my foor and the pedal (not eeven pressing, just resting my foot) the vibrating stops and squeeking stops). I fiqured it was the metal of the throw out bearing rubbing on the fork. So I sprayed some WD-40 on the back of the bearing, that worked for about 5 min than more squeeking. I looked the problem up in the book (never mind wich book) and it said I was sappose the put grease on the bearing so it doesnt squuek angainst the fork. Allright, no we are getting somewhere. So I did that still no luck.
So here is my question, Should I use the plastic/metal bearing so I dont get the aqueeks (just a hopefull guees), Or is that type of bering to cheep.
-JAWZ
So here is my question, Should I use the plastic/metal bearing so I dont get the aqueeks (just a hopefull guees), Or is that type of bering to cheep.
-JAWZ
04-09-2003, 09:21 PM
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Do you mean with the "larger" end, twoard the rear instead of the clutch. I dont think it is in backwards But I'll check this weekens when it comes out of storage. If its not that, any more ideas.
-JAWZ
-JAWZ
04-09-2003, 09:23 PM
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
no
i dont mean backwards
i mean:
there is a certain way the lip of the bearing is supposed to ride on the fork
centerforce includes a daigram with every clutch showing you how to properly set the bearing onto the fork
i dont mean backwards
i mean:
there is a certain way the lip of the bearing is supposed to ride on the fork
centerforce includes a daigram with every clutch showing you how to properly set the bearing onto the fork
04-09-2003, 09:28 PM
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Now that you say that (remeber this was done about a year ago) the groove of the thow-out bearing wasnt completle round, It had a flat spot on each side, that kept in from spinning in a circle. So could I have put it in upsidedown, Is that what you mean?
04-10-2003, 07:25 AM
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=171402
This is one very common way to put one together wrong.
This is one very common way to put one together wrong.
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04-10-2003, 01:09 PM
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Thanks for the picture, So I'm sappose to do it like the 2nd picture? Thing only thing is I cant see a differnace except for what i circled. What is that?
04-10-2003, 01:33 PM
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
That's the little spring piece that's part of the fork. If you have it with the spring outside the groove like that, it's wrong; the little ears on the end of it belong inside the groove. It's kind of hard to tell, but that piece is sort of bluish-looking spring metal in the 2nd pic. The big tangs that are visible in both pics are part of the main body of the fork, bent over almost double.
04-13-2003, 10:53 AM
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Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 350 Terminator EFI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
what if a person put theirs together like the first picture, because they had nothing to go off of and that made the most sense at the time,
then put say 4000 miles on the car???
any bad stuff gonna happen??
guess i get to tear it apart this week
then put say 4000 miles on the car???
any bad stuff gonna happen??
guess i get to tear it apart this week
04-13-2003, 07:24 PM
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
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Transmission: Tremec 3550
Not sure if this helps but there is an article on the tech section about the squeak coming from the fork and where it sit on the ball in the bellhousing. jsut put some grease in there. Can be dificult to get the fork up and the rubber cover off btu easier than pulling a tranny.
04-15-2003, 11:03 AM
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Originally posted by firechicken_3
what if a person put theirs together like the first picture, because they had nothing to go off of and that made the most sense at the time,
then put say 4000 miles on the car???
what if a person put theirs together like the first picture, because they had nothing to go off of and that made the most sense at the time,
then put say 4000 miles on the car???
04-15-2003, 06:42 PM
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Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 350 Terminator EFI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
i already fixed it, their was some wear on the bearing from the clutch fork but not enough to merit replacement at this point, so i just put it back together, i now no longer grind when i hit second gear hard
04-16-2003, 08:21 AM
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Well After 5 housr of working on the car to get the bearing I have good news and bad news:
Good News:
Bearing was put in right.
Bad News:
Still squeks.
Now What, The only thing I can think of it the piston for the clutch. When we worked on it last year, the clutch pedel was pressed while the piston was off the trans. so the plactic "keeper" (platic tip on the piston) snapped off, and the piston came all the way out. Could that be causing some of the problem???
Good News:
Bearing was put in right.
Bad News:
Still squeks.
Now What, The only thing I can think of it the piston for the clutch. When we worked on it last year, the clutch pedel was pressed while the piston was off the trans. so the plactic "keeper" (platic tip on the piston) snapped off, and the piston came all the way out. Could that be causing some of the problem???
04-16-2003, 02:58 PM
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 94 383 LT-1
Transmission: Tremec 3550
Have you tried greasing the fork yet? I had this exact same thing happen to me when I did my auto to manual swap. If you did try that I bet it is the platic bearing because I also had that happen when I had one of those cheap PoS 
04-16-2003, 03:35 PM
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Originally posted by Fei
Have you tried greasing the fork yet? I had this exact same thing happen to me when I did my auto to manual swap. If you did try that I bet it is the platic bearing because I also had that happen when I had one of those cheap PoS
Have you tried greasing the fork yet? I had this exact same thing happen to me when I did my auto to manual swap. If you did try that I bet it is the platic bearing because I also had that happen when I had one of those cheap PoS
04-16-2003, 07:00 PM
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Car: 1984 Firebird
Engine: 350 Terminator EFI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Originally posted by jawzforlife1
Well After 5 housr of working on the car to get the bearing I have good news and bad news:
Good News:
Bearing was put in right.
Bad News:
Still squeks.
Now What, The only thing I can think of it the piston for the clutch. When we worked on it last year, the clutch pedel was pressed while the piston was off the trans. so the plactic "keeper" (platic tip on the piston) snapped off, and the piston came all the way out. Could that be causing some of the problem???
Well After 5 housr of working on the car to get the bearing I have good news and bad news:
Good News:
Bearing was put in right.
Bad News:
Still squeks.
Now What, The only thing I can think of it the piston for the clutch. When we worked on it last year, the clutch pedel was pressed while the piston was off the trans. so the plactic "keeper" (platic tip on the piston) snapped off, and the piston came all the way out. Could that be causing some of the problem???
seriously though, make sure the area where the pivot ball contacts the clutch fork has some grease there, also could the pedal itself be squeaky?
04-18-2003, 01:49 PM
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Originally posted by firechicken_3
i did mine in 3 1/2hrs, and i even took it down to bare flywheel, cuz i was curious how it was wearing.. lol
seriously though, make sure the area where the pivot ball contacts the clutch fork has some grease there, also could the pedal itself be squeaky?
i did mine in 3 1/2hrs, and i even took it down to bare flywheel, cuz i was curious how it was wearing.. lol
seriously though, make sure the area where the pivot ball contacts the clutch fork has some grease there, also could the pedal itself be squeaky?
04-18-2003, 03:46 PM
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 94 383 LT-1
Transmission: Tremec 3550
I'm tired of saying it so here is the article. 
Check the pivot point. This is straight from the tech section of thirdgen.org
Check the pivot point. This is straight from the tech section of thirdgen.org
If your manual transmission equipped car has an annoying noise whenver the clutch pedal is all the way out, and the noise goes away AS SOON AS you put the slightest pressure on the pedal, it is easily repaired. You don't need a new throwout bearing. You don't need a new clutch. More on this later.
However, if you get a noise WHEN you press on the pedal, and it GETS WORSE AS you press the pedal further, it is your throwout bearing that is going bad and needs to be replaced, or other potential problems.
Now, back to the first case. To fix the squeeling; chirping; or whirring sound that goes away as soon as you apply even the slightest pressure on the pedal. You need to replace the lubrication that has dried up at the point of the shift fork and pivot ball stud. The loss of lube has allowed it to dry up and the noise you hear is actually a frequency vibration and as soon as you put pressure on the pedal it dampens the frequency, and the noise disappears. To replace the lube do the following:
Get a can of disc brake wheel bearing grease and a small stiff brush, like an 'acid brush'
Pull the shift fork boot away from the bell housing
Push the shift fork forward, towards the front of the car. This will be difficult, but you can do it. It will probably look dry and rusty in the area of the contact of the ball stud
Now, while holding the fork forward, take the brush that has been loaded with a dab of grease, and smooth the grease around the area of the ball stud and shift fork dimple. Do this 2 or 3 times.
Replace your shift fork boot, if so equipped.
You will have eliminated the noise. As soon as you start up the engine, the noise will be gone.
However, if you get a noise WHEN you press on the pedal, and it GETS WORSE AS you press the pedal further, it is your throwout bearing that is going bad and needs to be replaced, or other potential problems.
Now, back to the first case. To fix the squeeling; chirping; or whirring sound that goes away as soon as you apply even the slightest pressure on the pedal. You need to replace the lubrication that has dried up at the point of the shift fork and pivot ball stud. The loss of lube has allowed it to dry up and the noise you hear is actually a frequency vibration and as soon as you put pressure on the pedal it dampens the frequency, and the noise disappears. To replace the lube do the following:
Get a can of disc brake wheel bearing grease and a small stiff brush, like an 'acid brush'
Pull the shift fork boot away from the bell housing
Push the shift fork forward, towards the front of the car. This will be difficult, but you can do it. It will probably look dry and rusty in the area of the contact of the ball stud
Now, while holding the fork forward, take the brush that has been loaded with a dab of grease, and smooth the grease around the area of the ball stud and shift fork dimple. Do this 2 or 3 times.
Replace your shift fork boot, if so equipped.
You will have eliminated the noise. As soon as you start up the engine, the noise will be gone.
04-18-2003, 03:50 PM
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Originally posted by Fei
I'm tired of saying it so here is the article. Check the pivot point. This is straight from the tech section of thirdgen.org
I'm tired of saying it so here is the article.
Check the pivot point. This is straight from the tech section of thirdgen.org I got so wraped up in things I never looked at. I'll do that this weekend. Just to clarify, This is the pivoit point on the fork that needs to be greased. I hope this works.
JAWZ
04-18-2003, 04:30 PM
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
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LOL I figured as much... the damn thing drove me crazy when I had this problem. New engine, new clutch, rebuilt tranny, AND NOW A SQUEAK WTF!!! luckly i found that article and solved everything right up... I do indeed hope this works for you 
04-21-2003, 01:18 PM
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Originally posted by Fei
Push the shift fork forward, towards the front of the car. This will be difficult, but you can do it.
Push the shift fork forward, towards the front of the car. This will be difficult, but you can do it.
Push the fork foward, tword the front. My question is, and I know it is a stupid one, Do I push the bearing end foward (like in normal operation) or the pistion end froward. (opposite of normal operation). If it is like normal operation, cant I just have some sit in the car and push the peddal???
04-21-2003, 02:12 PM
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You want to push it the opposite direction compared to normal operation... what you're doing, is lifting the fork's pivot point up off of the ball pivot. There's a fork-shaped spring that normally holds it against the ball. You're raising the fork off the ball against that spring, so you can daub some grease into the ball seat of the fork, to lube where it sits over the ball.
04-21-2003, 02:14 PM
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Thanks, I just wanted to make sure I was doing it right. This will be the 3rd attempt to make this sqeeking stop, and I want it to be the last.
-Adam
-Adam
04-21-2003, 09:58 PM
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Car: 1992 Camaro Z28 Anniversary Edition
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: Borg Warner 5-Speed
Guys I have this exact same problem, but mine comes and goes as it pleases. It doesn't always make the sound. The sound usually start after driving the car a bit... When I park it and start it the next day, sound is gone. Then I drive for a bit and it comes back. A bit could be 1 hour, could be 30 minutes, all depends...
04-22-2003, 08:11 AM
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Ok, one and a half years, 20 hours, 3 attempts, 2 MacGyver "rig" jobs, and all it took was some grease and 10 minutes
MY SQUEEK IS GONE
MY SQUEEK IS GONE
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