Corry

Ok, I need a T-56 Clutch, flywheel, pressure plate slave/master cyl. Other than the McLeod Street Twin (which I may get anyways) Anyone know of a clutch setup?

Thanks
Corry

Matt87GTA

There are plenty of them. Like SLP, Centerforce, SPEC, etc. Look around at TByrne and Thunder. I have the McLeod single disc HD kit on my car. I know two other people with this clutch in the local F-body club I am in and we all love the thing - plus it is much cheaper than some of the other options. One of the cars has an over 400RWHP 396 LT1 in it too......

Oh, and watch the classifieds on the various boards and Ebay for flywheels.... Or just resurface the one you have (if you have one). You can also pick up a new one from GM....

Der91Z

iTrader: (1)

With the few mods that you have, the twin disk clutch is defintely not needed. A single disc Mcleod HD is what i have and its holding my 388 with no problems and it holds 5000rpm clutch dumps. A regular SLP clutch or SPEC stage 1 or the Mcleod Single Disc will do just fine. No sense in spending like $900 for a clutch setup if you don't have to.

Corry

I had previously only heard of the McLeod twin, so after reading the post before yours, I could find no one selling the single clutch version in the lt-1 style. I tried both retailers mentioned...Anyone got any other retailers out there? I'm pretty much dead set on some McLeod clutch as they seem to be the best.
Thanks

EDIT:

Oh yeah, the mod list is out of date, I had forgotten that this thing was auto-tacking on the signiture...I haven't done too much more yet, but Heads/cam are a very real possibility in the next 6 months, and maybe 6-10 months after that I will be looking into an accell mini-ram/super ram (havent decided which yet...I do know all the differences I just havent decided if I am going to go for tremendous low end torque or the high end torque and RPMS....just havent decided...After that, there will be some small upgrades necessary....and then eventually, once I blow the block/spin bearings/whatever, rather than rebuild this motor (well I will and sell on e-bay or something) I will get a nice 4 bolt main block with nice thick cylinder walls, lunati crank/pistons/etc....

Der91Z

iTrader: (1)

Check thunderracing.com, they carry the single disc version.

Corry

maybe for the LS1 but I was just there...unless it is listed as something else.....I am looking for a clutch, pressure plate and flywheel...so.....unless the single disk version will bolt up to the stock flywheel....


EDIT: This is what I found there....

Part Number Description Price Qty
37-261871 McLeod Performance Clutch Disk, Shifts to 7500 RPM, 1993-1997 LT1 F-Body
$133.33


37-360822 McLeod Pressure Plate including Throw-Out Bearing, 1993-1997 LT1 F-body
$293.33


37-460350 McLeod Steel Flywheel, 25# [Ring Gear OD=13.835, Ring Gear Teeth: 153, Clutch Patterns: 4]; 1993-1997 LT1 F-body
$360.00


37-560350 McLeod Aluminum Flywheel [Ring Gear OD=13.835, Ring Gear Teeth: 153, Clutch Patterns: 4]; 1993-1997 LT1 F-body
$613.33


37-64022-7 McLeod Street Twin Clutch Assembly, 1-1/8 X 26 Spline, Steel Flywheel
$933.33


37-63022-7 McLeod Street Twin Clutch Assembly, 1-1/8 X 26 Spline, Aluminum Flywheel
$1,133.33

Nother edit:
If that clutch shifts from 7500rpm is what you are talking about, then going w/ the steel flywheel listed there, the cost is 786.66 the cost for the street twin 933.33 ... a difference of ... 146.67 which is just slightly more than adding the cost of a second clutch disk (a difference there of $13.34) Not really sure there if it is not worth going to the twin....unless the single is directly upgradable...

Matt87GTA

I got my single disc McLeod from ThunderRacing (order online and you get a little discount too ). It is the first two parts listed above in your run down of what is available. If you need a flywheel anyways, I guess maybe the street twin is a good deal. But I would be looking for other sources than that big dollar McLeod one... There are used ones showing up all the time on Ebay and message boards. Go over to CamaroZ28.com and put a post up that you are looking for a used LT1 T56 flywheel and I'm sure someone can hook you up for A LOT cheaper than that McLeod one. And resurfacing is only about $20-30 at your local maching shop.

Like a couple of us have said, the single disc one is WAY cheaper and plenty strong for most applications. Unless you plan on making huge power or constantly drag racing the car and doing high RPM, hard clutch engagements, I would just use a stock flywheel with the single disc McLeod or SPEC clutch setup.

Corry

What I have been having trouble finding out is are all flywheels created equal? Can I take a good cheap steel flywheel from a reputable company (I don't know who) and use it w/ the McLeod clutch. You're right, I don't need the twin, but if the difference is going to be minimal, why get the lower model....Maybe you can answer my question, can I use any old T-56 flywheel with the McLeod Clutch? How about other clutches. I often see them selling as a unit so I thought maybe there is something special about the various flywheels.....they don't mention anything, so I thought well, either there is no difference, or its supposed to be obvious that to use one companies clutch you need their flywheel. I don't know much about trannies.....I have been focusing of minor motor problems, motor buildups, and rear end troubles. I wasn't planning on even starting to save for this swap until March, so now I am stuck trying to get all the info, parts, and the trans installed as fast as possible to get my car back.
Thanks for all the info so far...

You seem to know your trannies, so maybe you can also answer me this, what in the hell is an adjustable master cyl? Rather, what does it do for you? Does it modify where the friction point of the clutch is? (i.e. less pedal travel to engage the clutch) If not, is there anything that will let you do this? The car I learned on (A '97 Dodge Avenger 5 Spd) had the friction point basically as close to the floor board as possible, it was great for hills, and I really liked it. It was my friends car, unfortunatly we got in a wreck in Tennesee....now he has a Saturn 2 Door again with a 5 speed.....the friction point for that clutch is a major pain in the ***, its almost at the last possible place for the clutch to go! Its a hydrolic clutch so I have been told those can't be adjusted, but now I see an "adjustable master cyl" and I am hoping that someone has made this possible. I'd really hate to get the t-56 in only to find I hated it's positioning on the clutch lol.
Thanks again
Corry

Corry

nm I finially got the (begin sarcasim)Incredibly smart idea(end sarcasim) to go check google for adjustable master cylinder. What finially came up was a page on installuniversity.com on installing the McLeod adjustable master cylinder and toing the "drill mod" just in case anyone is interested, http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...r_cylinder.htm In it at the end it says you must now adjust the master cylinder to get the desired engagement point. I know know I will be spending the extra $$$ for that....it's better to have that then accidently roll bnackwards into someone or stall embarassingly attempting not to roll into someone because the clutch engagement point was up so high and my leg was tired of holding it up there lol. Besides, I want the engagement point where I want it, not where GM wanted it :P lol.


EDIT: I do still need to know about flywheels. I have the ability to get a ride tomorrow and tuesday to get the flywheel if I can just get a stock one, or one from a local parts shop.

EDIT #2: Just noticed that was for a 1999 Z28....might not apply to our cars.....I guess I will call McLeod tomorrow...

Matt87GTA

Most of the guys I know that have done clutches on their T56 cars have used the OEM flywheel still. A few have gone to the SLP one and a few others have done the whole Street Twin kit. Those of us that have kept the OEM flywheel have not had any problems with it. I would not hesitate to use a factory flywheel (used if you can find one and it is in good shape) if I were you.

The reason you see people buying the clutch in a package deal with a new flywheel is that it becomes a direct bolt on job - no checking the flywheel for flatness and having it resurfaced if need be. That is the only reason I can see for buying a new flywheel - unless of course you don't have one already . But an OEM flywheel or an aftermarket flywheel that is a direct replacement for a factory one (not sure about the street twin one) will work with any pressure plate and disc from any company that makes one for a T56 mated to an LT1 or other 1-piece rear main seal SBC.

That restriction mod applies to LT1 cars too. But you can just do that mod to the factory setup as well. You don't have to get the McLeod adjustable Master to benefit from that 'mod' . It basically just lets the hydraulic pressure move through the line faster and therefore give faster clutch application and release performance.

Adjusting the pedal engagement is nice but it isn't necessary for everyone. It isn't like those of us with the OEM setup are rolling into cars and stalling all over the place . But if you want to do it all at once in an effort to not have to go back in there again, getting that master wouldn't be a bad idea. I would say the friction point on mine is about 1/2 through the travel of the pedal but don't quote me on that - the car is in storage.

Corry

LOL the reason I'd be worried about rolling into cars/etc is because I have never had a manual car! My experience is very limited, I played around w/ my firends '97 Avenger in the parking lot of Texas Motor Speedway where I learned, I drove that car from Lewisville for the most part to a little past Memphis TN (started at 10:00pm and stopped at 7:30 am where my friend took over....but thats a whole other story) and then I have driven his new saturn a little bit....I hated it...rolled around too much, and had trouble with stalling because my control of my leg in that position wasn't too good. I don't know what the proper term to describe it is, but basically the full engage position of the clutch like if you didn't have your foot on the pedal at all, just maybe 1/16 of the clutch pedal travel is where the clutch would engage....very very very very annoying to drive. I had to drive it from Arlington TX to Denton one night cause he got a little tipsy at a party.....I don't mind doing that for a friend, in fact, if he had started walking towards the drivers seat I'd have not let him drive lol, but didn't mean I liked that stupid clutch! I don't want to get into a situation where I hate the clutch in my new setup.
As for the flywheel, thats all I needed to know, like I said, I'm new to the whole manual thing. My dad drove auto, my mom hates manual, my sister had a manual for a while and hated it, and noone else in my family has ever had a manual. So I never learned much about them....I know how to drive it, although, I am sure I will stall my poor peanut of a motor more times than I should while I get used to it lol but such is life. I'll be headed out to some junkyards tomorrow or tuesday to pick up the clutch pedals, flywheel, and anything else I can get OEM. I'll try and find a machine shop quick to resurface the thing...And I have another question but since this has gotten long, and its kinda off the set topic, I'll start a new thread lol.