redbird_400

My mods so far on the stock 305 are only headers and exhaust. Would my $ be better spent on a engine componet or a new engine or would a torque converter make much of a difference. I'm looking for something to increase the 0-60

redbird_400

From what I can search for it doesnt look like its worth the cash. An engine component should be first.

MdFormula350

yeah i agree, spend on engine first; and then use a converter to your power and put some rpm's on the ground..

but i have still heard at least for the 350 cars that changing the stall can help quarter mile times by like .3 - .5 range.. but they are expensive..

'87FAKE-IROC-Z

A converter will make a world of difference, just stay with the praised brands. It could easily take off close to a half second, granted you get traction. Well worth the money if you ask me.

4L60bliss

I have an ACT 9.5" 2800 stall and I love it. I would definatly reccomend to anybody. Its pricey, but it definatly worth the cash.

cp87GTA

Everybody has a differant answer, when it comes to this question. High stall converters are for those engines that need it, because of poor low end power. I switched back to an astro converter, and like it so much more. If you're running a tpi engine, stop and think for a moment. Just say you opt for a 2800 stall, 2800 to say 4700. Pretty small power band to me. AND your fuel milage will suffer, if you do a lot of city driving.

'87FAKE-IROC-Z

If you go with a good high quality converter, Yank, Vig, Pro Torque, etc. these converters are still "tight" despite their stall speeds.
Also, just because it is rated at say 2800 stall, doesn't mean it will rev to 2800 before you start moving. In most cases you won't be able to achieve the advertised stall speed with a a stock engine anyways, especially on street tires. The more torque that is put into the converter, the higher it will stall, regardless of its rated stall speed.
In my '88 I run a 3200 stall Yank. under normal stoplight to stoplight conditions, it acts like a stock conveter. It grabs right off the get go. If you get a little happy with the throttle, it will flash to around 1200, still hardly noticable. Beyond that I loose traction. Never acts up, doesn't run hotter, locks up perfectly, I love it.
For me to get it to 3200, I was on slicks and brake stalling at the track, and I got 3200. This is with a healthy engine also.
There is no reason to fear running a quality higher stall converter, I always say to go with brands that others recommend. Many of the TCI and B&M converters are ALOT looser and better for racing, where street manners don't matter, and thats where you encounter the loss in milage, useless revving, and heat problems because of the slippage.
This is what I have learned through my experience.
Check out the Yank and Vigilante web sites, they say it better than I ever could.

Ed Maher

I don't do what i wopuld call a lot of real traffic / city driving, but i do live in northern virginia, so i get my share. And my gas mileage didn't change when i went to a 3k stall vigilante.

Results. A solid 2 tenths off my 60' and 3 tenths off the run, with no loss in mph behind a stock 305 TPI. And it's otherwise a lot more fun to drive since the power is always right there if you want it or need it. That could also be some people's problem with MPG, maybe they just got happy footed. I was for a while after i got it, couldn't resist digging into it and watching the tach climb taking off linke a slingshot in 2nd gear and all. But i digress.

The right parts work great when used properly. Obviously results vary. There are 16 second cam swap cars out there too you know.

'87FAKE-IROC-Z

I was hoping you'd chime in Ed.