92 rs 10 bolt(stock) my question is what are the backlash and pinion depths/does the pinion depth get done first and is the depth measured from the carrier saddles? i have 107,000 on this diff. with the usual clunk and whine so i figure its time to do something about it and hope to use the old gears if they arent to screwed up(paint pattern) but i do plan on bearing replacement along with axle retaining clips for good measures also what is the in.lb preload specs on the pinion.. if any one has some good links please post them also,,

thanks ,,,, don

 

the specs are differant for each gear set, even if most are the same, or fall i nthe same range. the pinion depth is etched on the pinion and the back lash is etched on the ring gear. measure the pinion depth from the CL of the beaing. i used a piece of aluminum for a datum surface to measure from. set the bearing preload then set the back lash and check the contact pattern. requires a lot of specialized tools most people don't have, 2-3 depth mike, pinion setting tool, or dial caliper. 0-1 mike, dial type in/lbs torque wrench, "special tool" to hold the pinion yoke and a really long drive handle to get the correct preload.

 

I think you just forget those stock gears, and throw in some 3.73's. More power to the wheels, and geared well enough for commuting. Much improvement in what you are seeing now. I have a 1991 Camaro. I would. :lala:

 

thanks for the replies i have 3.08s wich i choose to keep for the haul from florida to ohio every couple months for mileage at the moment,,lol,,but i am well versed with tolerances as i have done alot of machining in a tooling shop for molds etc so i understand the use of a datum block (reference point) to start from// now any recomendations for fluid type and rebreakin fluid change out interval if using the same old gears( new wear paterns always create some contamination) so i figure i should give it 500 or so miles for break in or???? yoor input is appreciated thanks,,

,don

 

since you have a good handle on measuring and all you shouldn't have much of a problem. might want to measure pinion depth and back lash before you take it apart. i can't remember the pinion depth, over 2" i know and back lash is around .004 to .009 range. the biggest problem i can see you having is holding the pinion yoke and finding a handle long enough to get the correct preload. i made my yoke holder out of 3x48x 1/4 flat steel and made my drive handle out of 1"x36" CR round with a sliding male drive end from mac tools, 3/4 drive and welded it to the CR. if you reuse the old gears there isn't a break in period. i like amsoil or M1 synthetic gear oil

 

thanks for the info lol i have plenty of cheater bars from working on molds lol and am lucky enough to have the diff already out so room for wrenching is not a problem ,,thanks guys for the help,,don