'91 Formula

iTrader: (1)

I went to bolt up my T-56 today and found that the bolts supplied with the T-56, for the adapter plate, are the wrong size. I then tried them on the stock bellhousing. They fit perfect. I then tried the bolts on the second set of holes on the Lakewood bellhousing, the strait up holes, and they fit. Of cource I can't use these holes because the adapter plate rotates the transmission strait up, from the rotated stock bellhousing. WTF. I cannot find pan head bolts or if I did I don't know if I want to use them. The bolt diameter is smaller than stock and most likely weaker.

Anybody have this problem?

I think I am just going to bolt up the stock housing and forget about the Lakewood Bellhousing.

Maybe I will get an SFI approved flywheel. They are explosion proof right?

Help

Tom Keliher

You should get a better flywheel, yes. With your mod's and probably future mod's too you will need it. A good flywheel, made from billet steel will be SFI approved and good for more than 7000 RPM. I have a Centerforce billet steel flywheel, it is SFI approved and rated for more than 7000 RPM like I said so others are probably the same.

As for your Lakewood bellhousing, I'm not sure I'm clear on your problem but if it is a matter of the wrong bolts, but the boltholes are otherwise in the correct location you need for the rotational angle then just go buy a set of the right thread/pitch bolts you need. Any tap & die set can be used to 'gauge' the threads you have, and then you can go get the correct bolts. If it is totally unusable, then yeah use the stock T-5 bellhousing (what the retro T-56 is designed to bolt up to) and get the good flywheel and also a good clutch that is capable of high rpm. Again, I have a Centerforce clutch but there are others out there as well.

Now a question for you: how are you going to hook up your speedo? I read the retro T-56 is mechanical speedo only, and your Firebird is electronic VSS is it not?

'91 Formula

iTrader: (1)

Hey thanks for the info. Are you using the stock aluminum bellousing?

Since I have the flywheel, clutch and bellhousing allready bolted up, I thought I would try to find the correct bolts, but no luck so far.

I think I will pull it all apart and get an SFI approved flywheel and use the stock bellhousing. It is just that I heard horror stories of the flywheel comming apart, but I guess they were cast iron.

QUOTE: "Now a question for you: how are you going to hook up your speedo? I read the retro T-56 is mechanical speedo only, and your Firebird is electronic VSS is it not?"

Already did it. The electronic VSS from the T-5 bolts right in.

Tom Keliher

Awesome! Thanks for that info!

Yes, I am using the aluminum bellhousing. I feel pretty confident in the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch assembly, and the Centerforce billet steel SFI approved flywheel that they are not going to come apart. I have taken my engine to 6500 RPM pretty routinely since the tranny swap (it's modified) and no problems, vibrations, etc. But one thing for sure, if you are going to be spinning any rpm's of consequence, get the highest rated parts you can.

Here are some pic's from my tranny swap. May be of some help, may not...........

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/g...p/flywheel.jpg

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/g...wap/clutch.jpg

jmd

iTrader: (4)

You can redrill the adapter plate so that it bolts to the straight up holes. Gene Humrich (no longer with us) of Centerforce did this in his 79-ish El Camino so he could use a g-body bellhousing, and a friend did the same for his 86 Monte. This of course is only one way to kill a bird; the gun is in your hands.

'91 Formula

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the pictures. I am probobly going back to the stock bellhousing with a SFI billit steel flywheel.

Next question. Is it thick enough that some material maybe drilled out in the back for balancing, like my current flywheel is.

The guy who built my motor used a fully externally balanced crank. Since all 1pc rear main motors all use an externally balanced flywheel, he used one from the LO3 305. It is thicker then my LB9 305 flywheel, so he could remove some material from the back, when he balanced the entire rotating assembly. I don't know if that was right or not.

This has been my problem, and probobly why I just stayed with the stock type flywheel that he drilled. If there is enough material on the Centerforce flywheel, I will have a machine shop match the milling on my current flywheel.

What is the part number for the Centerforce flywheel?
What do you think of Hays P/N 490-10- 530 Flywheel I saw in Jegs? That is for the 1pc. rear main seal crank I think? Cheaper then the Centerforce.

Tom Keliher

Hmm....... you have a 1-piece seal crankshaft, but it is externally balanced motor? Dunno...........

But anyway the Centerforce 1-piece seal flywheel is externally balanced just like stock. They make a butt load of flywheels, one of them should work. I would call their tech line and ask them your questions.

I am sure Hay's clutches and flywheels are xlnt too.

Here is a link to Centerforce flywheels:

http://128bitencrypted.com/centerfor...tarq=CHEVROLET

And a link to Hays:

http://www.mrgasket.com/hayscat.html

graebz28

iTrader: (5)

What up guys,

I got my T-56 with stock bellhousing up on the jack right now. I'm having a really hard time gettng that last 1/2 inch to close. I can get one side started, but the other side swings out of the reach of the bolt.

I need some pointers on gettting the bh and engine flush.

I thought of going to the hardware store and getting 4 longer bolts or studs and lining all them up from 1-2" back and then slide the trans flush to the motor.

I'm sure you guys have this down to a science. Any help appriciated.

'91 Formula

iTrader: (1)

Have someone sit in the car and hold the clutch in or hold it to the floor with a piece of 2x4 placed between the seat and pedal.
You go underneith and move the tranny around untill it seats all the way. Make sure the pins in the tranny fit into adapter plate before bolting it in.

'91 Formula

iTrader: (1)

Problem has been solved. I decided to tap out the canted bellhousing holes using 12mm / 1.75 pitch tap. Also ordered the Hays billit steel flywheel. I am going to send it to a machine shop to have it back balanced against the iron flywheel I am currently using. You can't be too safe ya know. Thanks for your help.