WOT 7000rpm shift?!?!
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Engine: slowtacular L03 305
Transmission: slushem 700r4
WOT 7000rpm shift?!?!
Ok i got my 91 rs (5.0 tbi, 700r4) home last night and have had 430miles plus about 20 around town to play with it and i have noticed that at full throttle, no matter what gear it will (after it downshifts if neccesary) run up to 7000rpm before shifting to the next gear. This happens 1-2 2-3. Any ideas on what is going on? The car seems to have a few mods here and there so is it possibly a shift kit or chip? Its easy enough to avoid, just back about and 1/8 inch off of wot for a second and it upshifts.
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Engine: slowtacular L03 305
Transmission: slushem 700r4
No at wot it runs right up to 7000rpm if i don't let off. Is this normal? It doesn't sound like it for a base model V8.
under normal accel i get normal shifting, its just at WOT that this happens.
under normal accel i get normal shifting, its just at WOT that this happens.
#6
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Holly crap! I'd be very afraid to take my motor to 7K, it wasn't quite built with that RPM range in mind! It can't be making any power up that high I imagine either, not with this cam or these heads.
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Car: Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
it's not the TV cable, if it was too tight it would self-adjust itself out, something is wrong with the governor on the tranny or the tach is reading wrong....or maybe something is wrong internally with the tranny, how are the shifts?
suprised the motor would even go to 7000, seems like it woudln't be possible.
suprised the motor would even go to 7000, seems like it woudln't be possible.
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Engine: slowtacular L03 305
Transmission: slushem 700r4
Well considering my last car was a 4cyl bmw it does sound and feel like 7000rpm so i believe the tach is close. Under normal accel the trans shifts very smoothly, but when i womp the throttle it wants to run up and then shifts fairly hard, not like something will brake hard, but more than enough to tell you the gear just changed.
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by 91L98Z28
it's not the TV cable, if it was too tight it would self-adjust itself out, .
it's not the TV cable, if it was too tight it would self-adjust itself out, .
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
GM 700R4 Throttle Valve Cable Adjustment
1. Remove air cleaner on vehicles with carb or TBI.
2. Depress lock tab down on TV cable and push cable all the way forward towards carb or injector.
3. Have someone sit in vehicle and depress gas pedal to the floor so it's at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Hold it there for steps 4 and 5.
4. Now check to make sure the carb arm is bottomed out or has no more movement. If not, use a pair of Channel Locks to bend TV cable bracket until carb or injector arm no longer rotates.
5. Next, depress lock tap down and pull TV cable back (Pull HARD!) towards firewall or away from carb or injector until it stops and then release the tab.
6. Use a pocket knife or hacksaw blade to mark the cable in front of the snout. This is MAX TV.
7. After marking Max. TV depress lock tab and push cable forward toward carb or injector 1/8'' of an inch. Make a mark in front of snout. This is Minimum TV.
8. Set cable back to Max. TV and Road Test.
Road Test: Super Important
First thing to check on road test is for Detent. Here's how- Make a very light throttle or minimum throttle 1-2 upshift. As soon as it shifts, floor the throttle. The transmission MUST shift back to 1st gear. If it doesn't you need more T.V.
Note
Most Diesels and V8's will work best at Max. TV to 2 clicks away. 4 cyl and V6's will work best at 2 to 4 clicks away from Max.
1. Remove air cleaner on vehicles with carb or TBI.
2. Depress lock tab down on TV cable and push cable all the way forward towards carb or injector.
3. Have someone sit in vehicle and depress gas pedal to the floor so it's at WOT (Wide Open Throttle). Hold it there for steps 4 and 5.
4. Now check to make sure the carb arm is bottomed out or has no more movement. If not, use a pair of Channel Locks to bend TV cable bracket until carb or injector arm no longer rotates.
5. Next, depress lock tap down and pull TV cable back (Pull HARD!) towards firewall or away from carb or injector until it stops and then release the tab.
6. Use a pocket knife or hacksaw blade to mark the cable in front of the snout. This is MAX TV.
7. After marking Max. TV depress lock tab and push cable forward toward carb or injector 1/8'' of an inch. Make a mark in front of snout. This is Minimum TV.
8. Set cable back to Max. TV and Road Test.
Road Test: Super Important
First thing to check on road test is for Detent. Here's how- Make a very light throttle or minimum throttle 1-2 upshift. As soon as it shifts, floor the throttle. The transmission MUST shift back to 1st gear. If it doesn't you need more T.V.
Note
Most Diesels and V8's will work best at Max. TV to 2 clicks away. 4 cyl and V6's will work best at 2 to 4 clicks away from Max.
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Car: Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by Riley's35089rs+
I dont think so.....
I dont think so.....
Go out to your car. Get access to TV cable mount. Press little button in. Tighten cable by pulling towards firewall. Release button. Move throttle to WOT position slowly. Hear that little click-click-click-click as you near WOT? That's the self adjustment, adjusting the way GM designed it to.
Now, i will grant you that it will NOT self-tighten if it's too LOOSE. you have to pull it back in yourself. But if it's too tight, it WILL self-adjust out.
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
So how does the cable hold adjustment? I have never had much luck getting it tight enough without holding WOT, and pulling hard on the cable towards the firewall. Seems to me the adjustment you are talking about is after you press the D button..then the click click.....the click I here is when I give it a jerk back at WOT.
Hey , they all seem to act a little different.....Seems alot of guys have problems with GM's method.....I like the one above, and the one Transfixleo recomends. 6 of 0ne...half dozen of the other....
BTW..I wasnt trying to flame or anything, Ive just seen a couple of cables snap from being too tight...
one other thing..I like the color of your car..
Hey , they all seem to act a little different.....Seems alot of guys have problems with GM's method.....I like the one above, and the one Transfixleo recomends. 6 of 0ne...half dozen of the other....
BTW..I wasnt trying to flame or anything, Ive just seen a couple of cables snap from being too tight...
one other thing..I like the color of your car..
Last edited by Riley's35089rs+; 06-23-2002 at 04:14 PM.
#13
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Ok the tach's gotta be off.
The L03's with stock springs float the valves at 5800-6000rpm. The stock 187 heads are known not to be able to support sufficient air flow past 5500rpm. The stock peanut cam's rpm range is 700-3500rpm. As you can see, I really doubt that a stock L03 can hit 7000rpm and you should believe it too.
The L03's with stock springs float the valves at 5800-6000rpm. The stock 187 heads are known not to be able to support sufficient air flow past 5500rpm. The stock peanut cam's rpm range is 700-3500rpm. As you can see, I really doubt that a stock L03 can hit 7000rpm and you should believe it too.
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Engine: slowtacular L03 305
Transmission: slushem 700r4
Ya i am begginning to believe that as well. i did the rear end ratio test (70mph then drop to drive) and its reading as about a 4.20 drive ratio. So the tach is probably off, but it will all be checked out at the mechanics over the next week just to make sure.
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Car: Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: T56
I'm not sure how to describe how the cable holds adjustment. The black square thing with the button that the cable goes through will allow the cable to 'ratchet' in one direction, but not the other. The plastic pieces have ridges that allow them to slide in one direction but lock in the other. Maybe on different motors they are different, but that's how my TPI motor is.
As for problems with the adjusting methods and what not, you're correct..some people seem to have endless problems, some never seen to have a problem. I'm part of the latter group. When i put in my pro-built 700r4, I set it once and it just works perfect. I've never "adjusted" it one way or another to even see what happens.
thanks for the comments on the car, I'm not quit 100% sure what color it is. It was repainted back in 1992 because all of the original paint basically fell off the car. They actually did a really nice job on the repaint, but in a few areas (mainly the lower ground effects which can not be hit by paint with the door closed) you can compare the "original" color to the "new" color. VERY similiar, but not an exact match! The new paint is a bit more metallic, a bit more blue, and a bit brighter. but it looks good, and it's 10 year old paint that's holding up awesome so i won't complain! (It was repainted at the dealership, have the receipt for the warranty work).
As for problems with the adjusting methods and what not, you're correct..some people seem to have endless problems, some never seen to have a problem. I'm part of the latter group. When i put in my pro-built 700r4, I set it once and it just works perfect. I've never "adjusted" it one way or another to even see what happens.
thanks for the comments on the car, I'm not quit 100% sure what color it is. It was repainted back in 1992 because all of the original paint basically fell off the car. They actually did a really nice job on the repaint, but in a few areas (mainly the lower ground effects which can not be hit by paint with the door closed) you can compare the "original" color to the "new" color. VERY similiar, but not an exact match! The new paint is a bit more metallic, a bit more blue, and a bit brighter. but it looks good, and it's 10 year old paint that's holding up awesome so i won't complain! (It was repainted at the dealership, have the receipt for the warranty work).
Originally posted by Riley's35089rs+
So how does the cable hold adjustment? I have never had much luck getting it tight enough without holding WOT, and pulling hard on the cable towards the firewall. Seems to me the adjustment you are talking about is after you press the D button..then the click click.....the click I here is when I give it a jerk back at WOT.
Hey , they all seem to act a little different.....Seems alot of guys have problems with GM's method.....I like the one above, and the one Transfixleo recomends. 6 of 0ne...half dozen of the other....
BTW..I wasnt trying to flame or anything, Ive just seen a couple of cables snap from being too tight...
one other thing..I like the color of your car..
So how does the cable hold adjustment? I have never had much luck getting it tight enough without holding WOT, and pulling hard on the cable towards the firewall. Seems to me the adjustment you are talking about is after you press the D button..then the click click.....the click I here is when I give it a jerk back at WOT.
Hey , they all seem to act a little different.....Seems alot of guys have problems with GM's method.....I like the one above, and the one Transfixleo recomends. 6 of 0ne...half dozen of the other....
BTW..I wasnt trying to flame or anything, Ive just seen a couple of cables snap from being too tight...
one other thing..I like the color of your car..
Last edited by 91L98Z28; 06-25-2002 at 01:25 PM.
#16
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first of all unless that things camming up a storm and has solid lifters it wont go to 7K a hydroulic cam can only spin to 6500 at MOST anything more is very unusual... very unlikelly, even a roller hydroulic. Next in line is springs, no way can singles hold that rpm. float, backfire, sputter sputter. i wouldnt even trust doubles. next in line comes the rev limiter... dont these cars come with them? I can go on and on... no way dude sorry cant see it happening.
But it would be nice. I hear the new mustangs make power with valvetrain/rpms since they are really small in cubes. 4-valves per cylinder, and a really high redline.
But it would be nice. I hear the new mustangs make power with valvetrain/rpms since they are really small in cubes. 4-valves per cylinder, and a really high redline.
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Just to throw this in (and so you don't worry too much)... my LO3 does the exact same thing. Tach reads 7k shift at WOT. Not a chance in hell. I did the third gear 70 mph test too n came up with almost 4.10... n I know for a fact that my rear is 2.73. So I don't really pay attention to the tach anymore..
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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HMMMM... never thought of that at all. I do have the 110 mph speedo.. its in an RS but idk if that came with it or not. Would a v-6 have the 110 speedo? I had always thought that maybe someone swapped it but never really thought about the tach. Is there that little switch on the back that you can change between 4, 6, and 8? If so then I think I'll be pulling my panel apart to fix it. Thanks guys
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Yep mine has the 110......arent most aftermarket tachs lets say Bi cylinder...(works for both)..
Is there a Switch??
Is there a Switch??
Last edited by Riley's35089rs+; 06-29-2002 at 06:00 PM.
#23
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this remind me of my wonderfull ignition experience. apparently going from the stock V-8 engine in my 83' Z-28 305 Crossfire injected snail, to an aftermarket ignition setup cause my tach to read like a V6 on a V8 would... about 2K extra RPMS at 6K it would hit 8K...
I originally thought the tach was a V6 tach and that explained why it was wrong, but then realized my old engine was a V8 so i researched a little and concluded it was the aftermarket ignition that caused the change in factory RPMS... I Dont know why though. I cant think of any other reason it might be all screwed up...
Oh I ripped apart the console 3 days ago, took out ALL factory guages, cut a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum to the same shape and cut holes in it for my new set of ULTRA-Lite guages. Looks sharp as ****. There is a big hole however, waiting for my MPH guage which will be $200.00 + $80.00 for the sending unit. I've got better things to spend $280 on until then.
I originally thought the tach was a V6 tach and that explained why it was wrong, but then realized my old engine was a V8 so i researched a little and concluded it was the aftermarket ignition that caused the change in factory RPMS... I Dont know why though. I cant think of any other reason it might be all screwed up...
Oh I ripped apart the console 3 days ago, took out ALL factory guages, cut a piece of 1/2" thick aluminum to the same shape and cut holes in it for my new set of ULTRA-Lite guages. Looks sharp as ****. There is a big hole however, waiting for my MPH guage which will be $200.00 + $80.00 for the sending unit. I've got better things to spend $280 on until then.
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
that is exactly what I want to do with my dash...stainless steel. I saw it in a 57 chevy. I think it looks great.
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What the hell kind of answer is that.... If you have two tach's side by side.. one from an 8 cyl.. the other from a 6.. what would the differences be. I hate smartass answers.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
first off...did ya see the little smiley face winking at you....what I meant is a v-6 tach is in a v-6 car and vise versa.....as I said this was a good question......sorry I tried to help ya out....guys like you dont have much success in getting answers on this board.....lighten up..or do it yourself....later
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Car: 88 Firebird WS6
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Don't hold me to this, but v6 tachs start the 'yellow' zone at 5500rpm and red out at 6000. The v8's are lower....
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Problem with typing is you can't tell when someone is being sarcastic or not sometimes... so.. sorry bout that. In any case.. still doesn't explain why my tach reads incorrectly. Can they just.. go bad? I mean according to my tach my 305 shifts at 7k at WOT... *** knows that aint right. I can't figure out why though...
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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Car: 2007 Saturn Sky Redline
Engine: 2.0 turbo
Transmission: m5
Axle/Gears: 3.91 LSD
Originally posted by Patrick007
Problem with typing is you can't tell when someone is being sarcastic or not sometimes... so.. sorry bout that. In any case.. still doesn't explain why my tach reads incorrectly. Can they just.. go bad? I mean according to my tach my 305 shifts at 7k at WOT... *** knows that aint right. I can't figure out why though...
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Problem with typing is you can't tell when someone is being sarcastic or not sometimes... so.. sorry bout that. In any case.. still doesn't explain why my tach reads incorrectly. Can they just.. go bad? I mean according to my tach my 305 shifts at 7k at WOT... *** knows that aint right. I can't figure out why though...
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
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Why are you jumping on me now too??? My sig is normal size.... stupid pic doesn't work but oh well. Geeze I thought you guys were cool around here. Say one thing wrong n get jumped on over n over.... nevermind my question I guess.... I'll figure it out myself.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
#33
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Originally posted by Patrick007
Why are you jumping on me now too??? My sig is normal size.... stupid pic doesn't work but oh well. Geeze I thought you guys were cool around here. Say one thing wrong n get jumped on over n over.... nevermind my question I guess.... I'll figure it out myself.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Why are you jumping on me now too??? My sig is normal size.... stupid pic doesn't work but oh well. Geeze I thought you guys were cool around here. Say one thing wrong n get jumped on over n over.... nevermind my question I guess.... I'll figure it out myself.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Thank you,
Kevin
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Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by JoelOl75
Don't hold me to this, but v6 tachs start the 'yellow' zone at 5500rpm and red out at 6000. The v8's are lower....
Don't hold me to this, but v6 tachs start the 'yellow' zone at 5500rpm and red out at 6000. The v8's are lower....
PatricK, I realize it is hard to tell sometimes what people are thinking when they type. If you hang around the boards long enough, you will get to know the people here. MOST are good people that like to help others . Some, like myself, are here to learn about something they love..3rd gens.....Even my wife doesnt understand my infatuation with these cars.
My knowledge is limited pretty much to what Ive learned on these boards. Learned from others like myself.
I believe it takes a special type of person to give there time to help someone they have never even meant. Some of the guys on this board COULD andSHOULD charge a consultation/Tech fee. But they dont. I'd Definatly put them in the COOL category......:hail:
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mm yea I guess u're right about only showing my sig once per thread. I'll keep that in mind. And yea i'm def. very greatful to the people who share their knowledge even though they don't to. Trust me i'm in love with these cars too... i've wanted one ever since I was like 10. As for the tach.. my yellow starts at 4500 I beleive... so.. still something isn't right though. Unless I have some mutant ultra-high revving 305.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
Patrick DeGrosse Jr.
#37
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or as i said earlier, the ignition has been fuxed with, in which case you will need a different tach or some kind of filter...
so tell me, have any aftermarket ignition components? Mine did it when I went from HEI to non HEI and put a mallory unilite dist. in place of the old OEM one... do you still have the factory HEI? it would explain alot if you didnt.
so tell me, have any aftermarket ignition components? Mine did it when I went from HEI to non HEI and put a mallory unilite dist. in place of the old OEM one... do you still have the factory HEI? it would explain alot if you didnt.
#39
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Well in that case disregard everything I said and pretend I dont exist. heh, guess you have a bad tach. no way a 305 could rev that high, hell your springs resonant frequency is around 5200~ I would suspect Extreme valve problems at that point. mine does anyways, as well as my friends with the same car. I dont go past 4500 because its a waste to go any further...
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