PLANT PROTECTION

iTrader: (6)

Today I installed a 10" 3500 Coan converter and ran into some problems aferwards. I don't know how to adjust my shift cable. When in park, my tires spin like i'm in reverse, etc. every gear is messed up. Also I bought this converter from a friend and he told me that I will have to drill new holes in my flywheel to get the bolts he gave me to fit. 2 out of 3 holes the bolt fit right in, 1 of them was too small. How could one hole be a different size than the other two? I ended up using a slightly smaller bolt for that hole. Will this be o.k? Finally, when my car is in drive (actually reverse or neutral on my console, I don't remember) there is some chattering coming from my torque converter and one time when I gave it gas it made a screeching sound. Did I F*** everything up?!

Project86Iroc

The way I adjust the cable is as follows. Hold the shifter button down and find first by feel, not by the pattern on the shifter itself. then, go underneath and loosen the nut holding the shift cable to the tranny. Have someone (or you yourself) and with cable disconnected from the tranny, put the selector to 1st on the console. now, go underneath and reattach the tranny cable and nut. Now, again holding the button down. go through each selection of the tranny by feel and see where the selector is. it should be close to dead on. may need a little adjustment, but it will be closer. finally, before dropping it, put it in park and test the rear wheels(if off the ground) if you cant spin them(and the ebrake is off) you have park again.
the bolt holes in the flexplate have two elongated and one perfectly round. as far as using a smaller bolt, as long as it was grade 8, it shouldnt matter. the screeching may have been a loose bolt, or it could have been the shield not being tightened properly. you may want to check your bellhousing bolts as well. Mike

Riley's35089rs+

a little install help........
Important Torque Converter Installation Tips
1) PREPARE THE CRANKSHAFT AND CONVERTER FOR INSTALLATION a) always check crankshaft for burrs and out of round b) remove rust with emery and lightly grease pocket c) remove paint from converter crank pilot with emery d) pour one quart of ATF into the converter e) check the flex plate for cracks and worn teeth f) install the converter on front of the transmission

2) CHECK CONVERTER TO FLEX PLATE ALIGNMENT a) after bell housing bolts are tight, then check free movement of converter. It should have 1/16 to 1/8" of clearance between pads on converter and flex plate. If you have more than 1/16 to 1/8", install equal thickness washers to reduce clearance to 1/16 to 1/8". If not enough clearance, remove transmission and check to see if converter is seated in front pump properly. b) draw converter bolts up evenly so as not to pull converter into a bind causing vibration and pump bushing failure. c) if vibration occurs after installation, mark converter to flex plate and rotate the converter one bolt hole at a time.

3) The number 1 cause of vibration is failure to prepare the crankshaft for installation. Each time the converter is installed without sanding out the crankshaft rust, removing the paint from converter pilot and adding a little grease the converter may be drawn up crooked with the first bolt, causing the converter to run-out and usually ruining the pump bushing. The 2nd most common complaint on converters is a whine after installation. This usually means too much clearance between converter pads and flex plate. This draws the converter hub too far out of the pump drive gear causing the gear to rock .

Hope this helps.