86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

change bad fuel pump in the tank, or just get an inline pump?

Man all the crap you must rewmove to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump, not to mention my exhust system is welded.

Anyone here ever say just screw the tank pump and put on an after market inline fuel pump.


will an inline pump be able to pull gas through the bad pump in the tank? well the one in the tank works but it has low voltage code.


This would save me lots of work, I can installed an inline pump in a hr. it is gonna take days to drop my tank, espically if my exhaust does no drop far enough.

tpi_roc

I seriously wouldn't recommend trying to pull fuel through an intake pump with an inline pump, the inline is already at a disadvantage. What I'd say is just eat the PITA and cut your exhaust, pull your tank, put another pickup in there from a non elec pump car, put it back together, then plumb in an inline pump as close to the tank as you can, then if that one ever goes out its a simple 5 min swap and you'll thank *** you did it right the first time.

Scott_92RS

Where would one find a pickup from a non-electric pump car? Are most GM fuel pickups compatible with all tanks or soemthing? I plan on replacing my fuel pump when I put my new engine in, and I dont want to have to ever deal with a in-tank pump.

Jza

Best bet would be an 82-84 f-body in a junkyard. Even though carbs were available up to 87, it's much easier to find in the 82-84s (not to mention they're easier to pick out of a pile visually).

Personally, I'd just change the in-tank pump. Sure, it's a pain in the ***, but I'm the kind of person who'd just rather to things the "right" way than the "easy" way. But then again, I also like to spend time under the ol' Camaro. You gotta like it, to want to do it.

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

Well after lots of work, I found out my tank pump is ok. I changed my TPS, fuel filter and pump relay. those codes were being set off.

but after all that it stil is not fixed, I have no idea what it could be, it run fine but studders, nice smooth rev, studder for a sec or two then smooth out n keep revin.


i have replaced all those parts and it did not help, and i noticed that at then end of every error code it says " or bad ECM"

would a bad ECM make a car run like that, just studder all of a sudden for a sec or two then keep reving fine? till you shift and start reving again?

would a coolant temp sensor also do this?

any ideas

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

Ok forget allot of what I have said, just that intinal code 12 is so fast i allways thought it was a code 33, changed my MAF once then just ignored that code.

I have had the code 54 the whole time, so last 3-4 years I have had a code 54, got two tanks of 7-11 gas and it starts acting funny.

I got good fuel psi, new TPS, fuel filter, pump relay.

Under code 54 is also says oil pressure switch, so I guess i will change that too.

Also it could be a bad connection or open short, or like at the end of every code bad ECM.

would the oil pressur switch affect it like that??? befor i go buy one.

Derek Samley

well for those looking for a sending unit for there tank without a pump be carfull of getting one from a carb car I just swaped mine from carb to tpi and it had a pump in the tank and on the engine from the factory. This is an 87 so I don't know if earlier ones didn't have the in tank pump or not. just thought I'd warn yah before yah wast a lot of time. sorry can't help on the real topic.

87LB9B4Z

I had a problem that sounds like what you are experiencing but it was a stuck EGR valve. That was a pain to replace. I'd take the fuel pump over it any day.

86bird_28v6_5spd_ramair

RECAP:

The code 33 I thought the car had the last 3-4 years was really a code 12, the default code when getting codes. it just goes so fast.

the code 54 also 3-4 years but never any ill effects, screw it.


got 7-11 gas, we gots lot of rain for two days, car wents nuts.

got codes, and besides the normal, 12-54 I had the TPS code, so I changed it.

Now I will be honest here and open up myself for flames, even though I should have paid more attention, but I swear I read the book 4-5 time and some how missed that the TPS had to be set.

even before I went to the store to get a new TPS I losened the old one to change it in the parking lot. the car didnt run any worse so it had to be bad, being out of adjustment.


I got a new TPS and just threw it on, the TPS code went away but the car still runs goofy.

hmmmm I wonder why



I set the TPS and it help a little along with a vacuum line that was so dry roted it was sucking it self shut. That right there cured my idle, it would go up and down.


when setting my TPS I did notice my IAC [ idle air control valve] was clicking like mad,very loud, I let it go while I went to adjust the TPS but after a min it drove me nuts.

so I started the car, but it took a min to start the car like it was flooded or the choke was on??? but once it started I let it run a min and then i could turn on the key and the IAC was not going nuts???


But still in the 1000-1500 rpm range I got a stumble while siting still but it revs fine before and past that.

And while driving if i am very easy on it its like i can control it but then it starts acting up. studdering for a sec or two then it revs fine, I shift and it does it again, but not for long.

I am ready to park it for a while and just work on my bike, summer is here. its driving me nuts.


Computer cars are great untill something goes wrong, too many valves, levers, switches, relays, wiring and crap. ohhh and lets get ride of the EPA, they are the reason for half of that crap.




[ I need a V8 ] 1500HP Keith Black HEMI, 2000 hp rated 5 speed clutchless trans,NP205 transfer case, Dana 60 axels with detroit lockers, ohhh and drop that all in the back seat of an 86-87 Iroc 250+ HP at each wheel. A black slamed, clean and low 4X4 Rocket.