ok guys and gals i did sum looking first..

swapped maf nope
swapped relays. nope...

then i checked the schematic that was posted up

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...ensor-test.jpg

and i found i have no power on orange or E terminal to ground of battery on the car to the maf power relay.... where would i check for a broken wire and where would i check the ground>? the cars been in a barn for 7 years its bone stock.... trying to get this thing back on the road.... hell i got 3 gm techs stumped and im finally making head way thanks to the schematic posted.


HELP IM SOOO CLOSE!!!

 

The power starts at the fusible link at the starter.
IIRC there maybe a blown fuse next to the battery!

 

no. the fuse is fine. that also controls power to ignition for spark....... i kno that because when i bought it the guy spun it over 100000 times and the oil was gas... lol drained it added new oil and filter and marvel and replaced that fuse and she starts right up...... the car runs currently. but im not getting power at E on the harness for the maf power relay. so its throwing code 33

 

The power to the coil is provide from the ignition switch.

 

i guess my ? is where does the E terminal on the harness connect to aka the next point to check for 12v to ground on battery of car.

 

well the car starts and runs just don't have 12V at orange.. on maf power relay

was i supposed to have the key on when i jumped 12v to G on the ALDL when i tested the Orange E terminal and the A tan terminal on the harness?

 

i mean step 2 says ignition off b4 you start jumping stuff.!

 

As the schematic shows if you are checking A its hot all the time and starts at the starter solenoid protected bye the fusible link . There are several splices in the harness one inches away from the ops. The easiest place to start would be at the starter and look for a corroded fusible link.

 

ops? sry new to this stuff... dumb it down for me lol... ill go check for fuse-able links off the starter.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ble-links.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ible-link.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/6...ble-links.html

 

Ops= oil pressure switch

 

found a overheated wire on one of the fusable links that someone cut and spliced a different smaller wire on... its dark now i have no help with me and work at 5am.. ill cut the section of wire out and replace it tomorrow with 10 gauge stranded unless you guys recommend a special type of wire that can take the heat near the exhaust like that.... hot looms are a must.. also in the process i broke the harness side of w,e sensor is directly above the starter.. and not the knock sensor...... is that the ecm temp sensor or the guage???? either way it needs a new harness side now... i was trying to move it and it just crumbled in my hand. oops.... sensor side is fine.. broke the harness side.... such as my life.....!!!

 

thanks Tuned Performance

 

ill keep ya posted tomorrow after i throw in the new 6 inches of wire...... weird thing is its not melted threw the plastic...... but i kno a bad wire when i feel one... wont bend and is extremely stiff... it deff got overheated.... i see this all the time in breaker panels or working on furnaces every day at work..... especially on wire nutted connections.... luckily this is butt connected... they just used 2 small of wire... thanks again Tuned Performance... cross ur fingers for me.... and your toes! :P

 

The connecter you broke is for the secondary fan switch. You can use a knock sensor connecter or pigtail to repair it. To fix the fusable link go to the auto parts store and replace it with a piece of fusible link wire.the rule of thumb is the fusible link is four sizes smaller that the circuit wire you are protecting.a 14 gauge fusable link would protect a 10 gauge wire circuit. Make sure the link is no longer than 6 inches. The best way to install it is solder and shrink tube the joint.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5640PT-Pigtail-Connector-Single-Lead-Replaces-GM-12051234-12102621-Delco-PT308-/261217224457?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd1c28709&vxp=mtr

 

ok. today i re wired the fusible link with 10 gauge wire... i have voltage on 3 reds that come off the opposite sides of the fusible links. none are bad..... i have also a purple wire that does not have voltage.... the purple is hooked to the starter on a different lug... that's the solenoid connection or w.e its for the starter only..... so i have 12v on all 3 fusible links connected to the starter........

i re checked by energizing the g circuit again... still no 12v at the maf power relay on E- ORANGE.... i followed the wire back to behind the engine and that is where i loose track of it.... my luck its broken behind the distributor and i have to take the entire top intake and distributor off just to get to the wires. trust me ive been ripping and pulling no way at them...


**is their anything else in-between the fusible link and the harness on E Orange i can check with the meter to verify i have power up to a certain point.?**

 

also the fusible link feeds power to what.. to then send power to E Orange on the maf power relay??? if i can ill just ruin a new wire from the control that is supposed to send the 12v and call it a freekin day. im not ripping the entire intake off and distributor ...

 

CHEVY 86 messaged me with........Get a multimeter and set it to continuity. Prove the wire that has no 12 volts and with the other probe, touch any section of the cars body. If you get no reading, the wire is not grounding out.


****ok... i checked the continuity I have 6 on tan
and on E Orange its open......**** OHMS THAT IS.......... NOT VOLTS!


i also energized G and put my meter on E orange and grounded the meter to the car in like 50 spots with no voltage.....

what feeds E Orange on the maf power relay guys ill just run a new wire i cant see behind the engine......

 

ok also apparently i was looking at the wrong relay i think... why cant they freekin label these things

 

posting picture of my relays maybe im testing the wrong one. but reguardless i have O volts at the red on the harness for the maf sensor connector

 

this is my relays on my fire wall

 

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/3226/y68m.jpg

is this correct?????

 

Subscribed ...

going thru a 33 on my GTA

Goin to check my fuse link ...

 

ok here is what i figured out. The whole energise threw the g circuit is complete bs for testing if you have 12v at the maf sensor harness connector. I swapped my ecm and that was the problem. The car imediately ran better and code 33 is gone..... best way to check if you have a working maf sensor on ur 87 irocz is to start the car let it run 5 seconds to a minute. Unplug the sensor and it should stall.... next start the car while its unhooked it should fire back up on a very rough idel..... now check ground on battery to the red wire on maf air flow sensor harness on the car.. if ur relays are working correctly or if u dont have a broken wire and ur ecm is good you will have 12v at the red wire on the harness.....

And whoever douts me can come energise g on my car and ill show you it wont send 12v to the red on the maf sensor harness........ my car is 100% stock