PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Need a bit of help if anyone can, this is the last piece of the puzzle before I fire my newly completed TPI build.



This is the return line port of the regulator, notice how far the line sits inside the regulator? I'm missing an o-ring, but I haven't got a clue as to what it looks like. The bracket that holds the line in doesn't hold the line in far enough for a regular o-ring to seal. The line moves about 1/4" between the regulator and the bracket, giving me a huge leak.



This is an exploded view of a fuel rail setup. 224 is the part I'm looking for. When I pulled the lines apart, I put everything in a container. Everything in the container is now on the fuel rail setup, but apparantly that last piece is missing.

Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like? Or a part number for a replacement? Like I said, it's the last piece to firing this beast up, and it needs to be fixed ASAP. The first points race was last night, and I had to run my daily driver. I really don't want to put a ton of passes on it lol. Thanks for the help.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

-010 as56A ,1/4 id ,3/8 od
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...96537&cmpid=cj
]Sk24 in standard motor products or delco 217-440 The schrader valve is acdelco 15-31054

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

That link takes me to injector o-rings, is that right? Is it just a normal o-ring? I've tried a couple different ones, but none stop the line from moving. Its as if the port in the regulator is too deep, and the bracket isn't holding the line in far enough.

eseibel67

You might be using the wrong O ring. The lines do not have to "bottom out" in order to seal. It's the I.D. size of the O ring sealing the line, and the O.D. size of the O ring sealing in the bore of the regulator housing that keeps the fuel in.


That kit in the link is correct.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I listed the dash size for a Viton o-ring . Install a o-ring , and the regulator retaining clamp.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Google found me this.
http://tpiparts.net/inc/sdetail/10950/854

ASE doc

I think the problem you may be having is assembling the hold down bracket backwards. The line sits inside the PR body and is sealed by a small viton o-ring, as linked by tunedperformance. The bracket that holds it in place has a flange formed in it that holds the line in a recessed position below to the surface of the body. Are you assembling it with the flange facing outward? this will not hold the line in correct position. Refer to the drawing you have posted, item 270. See the flange? Each of the hold downs is formed this way. Be sure that this flange goes into the line opening in the body against the flange formed in the line. This holds the line close to the bottom of the opening with the o-ring installed.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

All the metal crossover tubes the retainer touches the tube flange except the return line.

ASE doc

One method I have used on older vehicles where things are perhaps worn and don't fit quite as well, is doubling up o-rings. Placing two o-rings on the line instead of one will hold the inner o-ring further into the opening and helps create a better seal. In this type of line joint this method can seal a leak.

eseibel67

The flange OP is dealing with is #255, which cannot be reversed.

ASE doc

Looking more closely at the drawing, I can see this is so.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

Thank you all for all the feedback. I ordered a set from Autozone, got them tonight. Tried out the best fitting o-ring (second on the right, see pic), and it leaked just as bad as before. The line is snug in the regulator though. The smallest o-ring in the set (see farthest right in pic), I have to force onto the line, and doesn't feel snug at all on the regulator. Are you guys 100% positive it's the smallest o-ring in the kit? It's the closest to the 1/4" ID 3/8" ID measurements given in post 2.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Looks like maybe the second to the end, the smallest one i think is the ninth injector tube. I know for sure the line is a 5/16 hard line.

http://webpages.charter.net/khasting...uelsystem.html

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I thought they were the metric O ring sizes like whats used on the A/C fittings.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

That's what I used was second to the end, don't understand what I'm doing wrong here...

eseibel67

Is the bore in the regulator smooth? Does the fuel line nicked or have a dimple in it? O rings can take up some irregularities depending on how deep they are.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

It looks good to me, it sealed before it was pulled as well. I'll give it another shot tonight, but call me pessimistic at best...

ASE doc

The o-ring isn't being pinched or cut is it? Always use vasoline or seal glide on the o-rings. Remember what I said, if a single o-ring doesn't seem to extend far enough into the bore to make a good seal, use two. I deal with these things almost daily on AC and fuel systems. As far as finding the right size o-ring, the one that fits snugly over the tube and also snugly inside the bore is the right one.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

When taking the line back apart after it leaked again, the o-ring was sideways in the hole, but that was possibly just a result of taking the line out of the regulator. Its enough to justify trying again though. Before install, I dipped it in a bit of motor oil. I'll also try double o-rings. Thanks ASE. As firm as it fits over the line and into the regulator bore, it feels like it shouldn't leak. When the rail setup is completely bolted up, I can't move the regulator nor the line, so if feels like it should seal.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

You have plenty of room on the line to double o-ring it. As long as you slid the o-ring over the line first and installed it it was correct. The o-rings usually end up sticking in the bore when removed. If all else fails send it to me ill modify it for an lol

ASE doc

Motor oil wouldn't be my choice for an o-ring lube, but it should work okay I suppose. I did use ATF for some time but ran into trouble cutting o-rings. That's when I switched to a light grease like vasoline or seal glide. As Tuned Performance says, it's common for the o-ring to roll off the tube and stay in the bore. As long as you are installing the o-ring on the line, then installing the line in the bore, you should be fine. The return line in the factory application sees minimal pressure. In my application, I have a remote regulator holding 70PSI against the entire fuel rail assembly. I suppose I'm doing well not to have any leaks.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I just wanted to share a project I did today that I will be selling as soon as a buddy who's swapping injectors can pressure test them. They are new cross over tubes made from seamless 304 stainless steel.

PhoenixFirebird

iTrader: (2)

I finally got the darn thing to seal, ended up with 3 o-rings for good measure. I think I found the issue though, but not entirely sure. The very end of the line was flattened just ever so slightly. Not sure if that had anything to do with it or not. Thanks for all the help, this should let me fire up my new build tonight!

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Glad you got that wrapped up and are almost ready to fire it up

jas2730

iTrader: (7)

Those look really sweet.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

I probably owe you another dollar for that comment

jas2730

iTrader: (7)

Nah. Just pm me the price for a front cross over. I've got an idea for a set of rails I have laying around.

ASE doc

Those stainless lines are nice.

Tuned Performance

iTrader: (92)

Thank you