BigDom

Let the headache begin...
Okay so after I finally got the exterior finished I started on working on the motor today I don't know if I posted before but the main issue when I purchased it was the car could not be start without spraying ether into the mass airflow sensor... so yesterday I change the injectors and went over everything and everything looked fine... today when I went to start the car it would start and then stall unless I had my foot on the throttle then it would continue running but once I took my photo off the throttle it would shut off so I figured it was the mass airflow sensor... so I replace the sensor and it would start then stall again but once I pushed the throttle down it stayed on and and then i took it out for a test drive it didn't shut down on me only once when I put it into reverse once so I'm not sure if it might be an idling problem but another problem was that the car Ran sluggish and and didnt have much power now I don't know what to do...

My question is why after changing the sensor did it shut down again. It finally stay on when I gave it gas it idled but was weak

And any ideas why it's still running sluggish
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ASE doc

First problem I see in your story is spraying ether into the MAF. Nothing but air and/or MAF cleaner should ever touch the MAF. What injectors did you put in it. Are they new and correct for the application? How is your ignition tune? You may have an issue with the IAC system but that won't cause a lack of power.

BigDom

Well that's was the owner who was spraying ether to start it...I bought injectors from south bay injectors and I've used them before on my Iroc and they were amazing so I doubt that's the issue...how do I check my ignition tune?

ASE doc

South bay is a good company. Checking ignition tune is either done visually or using an ignition scope. Since most of us don't keep an ignition scope in our garage, a visual inspection is generally good enough. Check the wires for hardness. Disconnect them at the plugs and at the cap and look for signs of corrosion or deterioration at the terminals. If the wires are Packard brand, they are the originals and need to be replaced anyway. You can use an ohmmeter to test the wires for resistance. A good cable will test at about 5K ohms per foot of length. I don't bother much with this test myself since I have replaced many wires that tested okay because they leaked and caused ignition drop out under certain conditions. Any wire that is stiff, even in a short section, should be replaced.

Check the plugs for gap wear or oil deposits. Oil deposits will generally appear as white chaulky buildup or flags, as we call them, on the ground electrode. If the gaps are worn more than .010 over factory spec(.045), replace them. Check the cap and rotor for carbon tracking between the contacts and buildup around the center contact of the rotor. Check for deterioration of the rotor to cap contacts.

The one thing that a visual inspection can't tell us is the KV capacity of the coil. An ignition scope allows us to test this. We can also do a quick test using a cheap adjustable spark tester from the parts store. Adjust it to 40KV and test at two or three plug wires. If the spark wont jump 40 KV, try the test at the coil wire. If the spark jumps at the coil wire, you need wires cap and rotor. If the spark won't jump 40KV at the coil wire, try 20KV. If the spark will jump 20 but not 40, replace the coil and consider replacing the ignition module since it produces the primary ignition pulse to drive the coil.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Have you checked the fuel PSI and or changed the fuel filter ???

BigDom

The fuel filter was checked and I checked the iac and the tps and they were fine...so I hooked up the scanner and there was a lot of codes but we figured try we're old codes that were never cleared so once we cleared them the motor was running a little smoother and not so rough but the only problem we are havin now is the car should be idling at 650 but it's idling at 850 or so...how do I fix this? Also once we cleared the codes no new ones came back

Ps Asc doc I just saw your post now so when I go back to workin on the car on Monday I will do what you said thank you very much for your help
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BigDom

Bump really need help here

MassD

iTrader: (1)

Friendly Bump~!

ASE doc

You still want to verify fuel pressure with a gauge to be sure. Codes only remain in memory for 50 engine starts after a problem is resolved, so the codes you found may very well be related to your current trouble. What codes did you find? What was MAF voltage at idle and at full throttle under load? I understand the car may be hard to drive, so WOT MAF voltage may be hard to see.

Another possible cause of this list of symptoms is a restricted cat. Try breaking the exhaust loose at one of the flanges and see if the power is restored.

ASE doc

Just saw where another member had several codes and some strange issues on his 92 GTA. On further inspection they found where a rodent had nested in his fender well and eaten his ECM harness. Shows the value of a thorough visual inspection.