IROC.CAMARO86

just replaced my heads after the previous owner ran the car while the water was mixing with the oil. Just finished everything from replacing the heads and just put in the spark plugs and turned the key.

It starts, just it wont idle by itself, it will die after 5 secs of idling. There is no meter for me to time with a timing light. so i checked the injectors pulling them off one by one hearing for a change in tone of the engine running, injectors 3 and 7 when pulled dont change any tone at all,

Would it be the case that im throwing codes?, the injectors are bad/clogged? or am i not getting spark in those two cylinders? HELP!?!?!

ASE doc

Start with the basics. A cylinder needs three things to make power: Compression, fuel, and spark in correct time. Check each one and determine which is missing. BTW, when water mixes with oil it tends to erode bearings and crank journals. I see no mention of your having serviced these items. I hope you do okay with this. I've had some real disasters not going clear through an engine that ran on chocolate milshake.

IROC.CAMARO86

Ill try all of those until 1 rises above the others, thanks.
-And as for servicing, i had the heads get a valve job due to the water only getting by through the head gaskets,
-also im curious as to what kind of material i should be using to route air to the air injector, What it had before was a rubber tube, only thing is, that it had a 90 degree angle when it met with the air injection, Thus created a crack/hole at the angle.

ASE doc

I'm confused by what you mean by "air injector" do you mean to the air injection manifold check valve? That should be 3/4" rubber hose. The individual injection ports themselves have to plumbed in steel as rubber will not withstand the heat.

IROC.CAMARO86

First off yes i was referring to the individual ports, so you answered my question on that, Thanks (:

As for it running on 6 cyclinders, you brought it back to 8 cause i checked everything and cylinders 1 and 7 werent getting spark, so i replaced those and now its running on 8, MANY MANY MANY THANKS!!

Now just have to work on it passing smog as it failed 3 of the 4 categories:
(PROBLEM) (RESULT) (REQUIREMENT)
-High Speed CO 2.53% 1.20%-Lower
-Idle Speed HC 1265 220-Lower
-High Speed HC 223 220-Lower

ASE doc

Good job on the misfire issue. HC(hydrocarbon) is unburned fuel. CO is partially burned fuel. HC will go high when there is any type of misfire or poor combustion on any cylinder(s). Added ignition advance above stock will also increase HC because of reduced exhaust temperatures. CO will be high when there is excess fuel added to the engine. In order to reduce HC and CO on a healthy engine, engineers use manifold heat to reburn any CO or HCs in the exhaust stream. AIR(air injection reaction) helps to acheive this by injecting fresh air into the exhaust stream. The oxygen rich air encourages combustion, or reaction, of the unburned fuel(HC) and partially burned fuel(CO).

When the engine is cold, air is injected at the manifold to help heat up the manifold quickly and also to compensate for additional HC and CO due to rich "warm up" fuel/air ratio. After a few minutes, air is diverted to the catalytic Converter where it helps reduce and oxidize any remaining HC or CO in the exhaust stream. HCs above 300ppm are abnormal, even for a non emmission controlled vehicle and point to either valve timing issues(aftermarket performance cam), or some sort of misfire or too much timing advance. HC as high as yours point to some serious issues. Your engine cant be quite right with HC at 1,200ppm. Look at timing, any misfire or power reduction in any cylinder(s). When high HC is combined with high CO, we look for a cause of rich AFR. Coolant temp sensor? O2 sensor? MAF sensor?

Leaky injectors would explain both the high CO and high HC. 2.5% CO isn't terrible but it is slightly high, even for a non emmission control vehicle. When you are satisfied that the engine is tuned correctly, HC should be below 400ppm. Check out the AIR system(those lines you were asking me about) make sure especially that the pump is working and that air is being injected at the Cat. You can check this by removing the rubber hose from the steel line going back to the cat and feeling for air with the engine running for more than 3 minutes. If you cannot get HC below 400ppm or CO below 2% with the engine tuned correctly and AIR system functioning, you will need to replace the Catalytic Converter.

There are cheats which I have used with some success. Of course I have access to a 4 gas analyser which makes checking easy, and more important, free. When you have to pay for repeat visits to the test center, the value of a cheat is diminished. The cheat for HCs is to retard timing 4 degrees. This won't severely affect performance or CO levels and will reduce HC considerably. Another trick is to keep RPMs up while waiting for the test. This, like retarded timing, helps keep the exhaust hot, thus reducing HC emmissions. Raised idle also helps reduce HC. CO is more tricky on EFI cars and may require replacement of a faulty sensor, injectors, or Catalyst.