itsMikey

alright...
so when im at a stop light or a stop sign my car idles down to 500rpm's then just stalls all the way down. the SES light turns on when i hit a big bump and it starts doing all this?

also, i noticed, when i was going 40, the rpm's dropped to 1000rpm's when i let off the thottle?

so...whats wrong with my beast??

itsMikey

oh, also. when im on the throttle, it feels fine and still wants to pull (unless i hit a big bump, as said above)

godreject

iTrader: (1)

What code is it giving you.

itsMikey

i couldnt get it throw a code when i did the paperclip thing...like, it didnt even throw a 12

david068513

iTrader: (2)

Vacumn leak? Mine did that when a intake gasket failed.. Sounds like a vacumn issue. Just my experience. It's easy to check so is check just to rule it out.

itsMikey

hmm...and that would throw a code? how come the SES light flickers when i hit a bump?

itsMikey

and can that be ruled out by doing a compression test?

itsMikey

was looking at rebuild kits, not to expensive. maybe just do the rebuild and see what then? either way, im sure it could use it.

itsMikey

need some ideas here...it is my DD

david068513

iTrader: (2)

My ses light did that also but I never pulled the code so I can't say for sure. To check for a intake leak. While the car is running spray carb cleaner around the intake. You'll see it vapor away and hear your idle change. If it's leaking there.
Only spray alittle.

itsMikey

alright..ill try that later.

also, its fine until it gets warmer and after i drive it a little when i turn it off and just turn the ignition on, the primary fan kicks on?

itsMikey

i replaced the ecm fuse (it was bad)

seems to be running good now

itsMikey

nevermind... >.> its stil ldoing it..

itsMikey

...

itsMikey

so today i was driving and the car just shut down, completely.
steering wheel locked up and everything
so im thinking maybe its VATS? idk..

oh and the car only gets to about 150*
i have a 180* t-stat

sooo???

Gibson

im having identical issuses and i have TBI so it has to be something that both motors have in common.

itsMikey

do tbi's have an egr? tps? iac?

what about YOUR vats?

im like..lost here!! lol

Gibson

yes, yes, yes, never had a vats problem yet.
i disconnected my egr by recommendation of a hot rodder friend that has proof from a dyno chart that it game him more power. my iac is new. it could be TPS, if its les than 25 bucks ill throw one on for fun to see if it fixxes it

itsMikey

lemme know

aqualordx93

this happened to my 86 iroc. when i was on the throttle it was ok. but when i turn the car on nd just let it sit or i get off the idle the cars RPMs go nutty. and when it stalls i loose everything, steering, brakes. everything locks up.

as i recall it was my fuel regulator. like the engine isnt getting enough fuel. not sure if this will help.
also when i opened and closed the door it stalled even, i found the problem one day when i slammed the door and i saw sparks under the hood and found the issue.

itsMikey

hmm...fuel regulator..

would that throw a code?

aqualordx93

nope, at least mine never did.

ASE doc

Need to question why your ECM fuse blew. Also, why does it react to bumps in the road. Sounds like a wiring issue. The IAC or its control circuit will cause your low idle and stalling problem. A sticky EGR will cause low, rough idle. Beware that running without the EGR on a stock motor will eventually cause valve damage. In any case, before you start throwing parts at it, wiggle test your ECM harness and try to find the short circuit.

itsMikey

it didnt blow..i just replaced it and was hoping it would be the quick fix.

wasnt planning on running without the EGR. i still need to pass the visual inspection even though you cant see it. lol

i ordered the IAC, EGR, TPS and intake manifold gaskets. so we'll see how all that goes

i heard that the TPS has to be positioned a certain way?

Wolnam

Must be that time off year. My 87 Camaro has stalled out on me twice now in the last 2 weeks. I was under the impression that it wasnt getting enough fuel and according to AQUALORD that was his problem as well. Best of luck getting it running. If I have any breakthrough moments, Ill be sure to let you know.

itsMikey

hopfully get my parts later today or 2marro..autozone is slacking -_-

ASE doc

The TPS has to be adjusted to .5v at closed throttle. Measure voltage between pins A&B of the connector. Use back probes or you can sharpen one end of two paper clips for home made back probes. Be careful not to damage the connector or wiring.

You're already going against my most basic principle. You're replacing parts without even diagnosing to verify whether they're bad or good. Just because this guy's car had that same problem, doesn't mean the same part was causing it. You could end up spending alot of money with no real improvement. My purpose as a technical advisor on this forum is to help members avoid that very thing. If you should decide to spend a little time testing before you start throwing parts at this issue. I might be able to help you determine what tests to start with.

Otherwise. Good luck to you.

aqualordx93

^^ agree completly, but the fuel regulator wasnt that much at all, so in reality there not throwing that much money, but yea, finding the problem first is good, but if you have no idea you gota start somewhere. sad to say some of the tests on these cars dont work all that well.

itsMikey

i think it was my chip being unplugged just a bit..i looked at it and it was slighty out..so a bump was disconnecting it and moving it around..seems to be good now but i only drove it for 5mins..will let you guys know 2marro

side note: havent changed anything yet.

itsMikey

nope...wasnt it.

wasnt because of a bump this time...the ses light came on after i drove it like a mile, turned it off and when to start it and the ses light was on.

so ill check and see what codes its throwing later...

probably gonna change out the egr and clean the iac.

ASE doc

It is a misconception to say that the tests on these cars dont work well. These tests, when performed correctly, are fool proof. Yes you have to start somewhere but you start by making a list of possible causes then by testing and checking each possible cause until you find the problem. If you don't find the problem on your first round of tests, you step back, rethink your list and try again. You may have to test drive the car a few times to pinpoint the exact symptoms. It may seem like alot of trouble, but this is part of diagnosing and repairing cars.

ItsMikey, It sucks doing all that work and coming up empty huh?

ASE doc

The SES light codes will probably point to your problem. Again, you really want to perform the tests prescibed for the codes before you replace parts.

itsMikey

thats what i was planning to do.

itsMikey

alright so the problem was that the chip in the ECM wasnt seated all the way and the harness wires werent plugged in all the way.

runnin like a champ now

Wolnam

Thats great Mikey. Hopefully it stays that way.
In response to ASE doc, not trying to be a jerk or anything, but you jumped all over us telling us to theorize and figure out possible issues before jumping to conclusions...... what do you think this is getting posted on this site for?!?!? To get ideas and possible solutions from people that had experienced similar problems.
Not everyone on this site is an automotive guru and some people have no other options but to take peoples advice or take it to a mechanic.

As stated, I'm not trying to be rude, but perhaps you should give everyone on here more credit then what you do. As you read the post, no one states they are going to go spend money on a problem they dont know it will fix.

Appreciate your advice and it will be used accordingly.

ASE doc

I apologise for coming off as arrogant. I certainly did not mean any personal insult to anyone. I am trying to lead people away from the practice of diagnosis by trial and error.

To a certain point, all diagnosis is trial and error. We look at possible causes, and may really beleive that we have the problem solved, and end up not being able to prove a part to be the cause or worse yet, replace a part that we are sure was the cause, even after testing, and find the problem no better. I am not perfect. I make plenty of mistakes. Half the work I do on my beast these days is correcting short cuts I took 12 years ago on the original build.

My key goal is to get everyone pointed in the right direction. Test first, then replace.

Wolnam

You werent arrogant and you have a valid and solid point. I think that you assumed that we were just going to run out and buy a pressure regulator because it fixed some other dudes car.

It's great that you are willing to take the time and offer advice so again I thank you.

Once the snow clears, Ill take my car out and try to fine line the symptoms. In the meantime, I'll get back to work on my GTA

itsMikey

definitely didnt come off as arrogant at all, you were trying to save me time and money in a sense

and i do A LOT of research before i buy anything for my car. so its not like i was taking ONE guys advice and throwing parts at it. I didnt spend a penny this time around

ASE doc

Cool man, I can be kind of a jerk sometimes and I know I often overreact. Im glad you got your car fixed. Sometimes it's the little things.

itsMikey

okayyyyyyyyyyyyyy so everynow and then, it does it again and i have to reset everything. clear the codes and stuff

BUT
today when i had to do it, i figured id pull the ECM down just for fun. AND MY DASH SPEAKER CAME OUT WITH IT! could the magnet on the speaker have been causing all this ****???

ASE doc

The speaker laying on the ECM certainly wont help things.

itsMikey

thats what i guessed but i wasnt sure if i sure feel releived by finding this? lol...

ASE doc

Remount the speaker, put the ECM back in and if the engine still wants to stall, crank up the base idle 100rpm. If the car runs fine otherwise, I wouldn't lose too much sleep over it. Just rereading your original post. The drop in rpm when you let off the gas at 40, could be the trans shifting into high gear.

itsMikey

i drive around in 3rd most of the time just around town and that when i was noticing it so i dont think thats it but yeah, it seems to be fine now that i took that outta there..will re mount it later

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

People! Use your thinking cap. If you hit a bump and the car shuts off and on, that means it is something electrical. Always start with making sure all the plugs are secure even at the ECM and chip. 9 times out of ten thats the problem. All that other stuff you guys were talking about has nothing to do with the car hitting a bump and shuting off. These cars are 20 plus years old now. There are very few mechanics that can still work on these cars. This is the best place to get the best info but you have to think about what you're saying.

ASE doc

Absolutely. If I didn't recommend wiggle tesing the ECM and harness, I wasn't paying attention. BTW, Im one mechanic who definitely knows how to work on 3rd gens. In fact I grew up on them working for GM as an electrical and engine performance tech. I'm also old and not always real sharp anymore. LOL

HighTechRedneck

it'sMikey whats up? have you had your car reprogrammed since you did your cam other work to it? i have done a bunch of small things to my car also, and now that they are all adding up, i get the same problem! But I feel like i am going to agree with whoever suggested it is not getting enough fuel. My next question is, What is the easiest way to regulate fuel pressure? Can I manually turn up the idle on my TPI motor?

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

His car is Stock except for the Dyno Dons headers and Dual catback system with a Magnaflow muffler. Kevin91Z burned a chip for him. His car made 252whp on the dyno.

Fuel pressure? Get a fuel pressure regulator and leave the idle alone. You can turn it up with a torx bit or an allen head wrench. But you will throw the computer off so don't worry about it.

itsMikey

okay so it did it again tonight. but im almost certain its a bad connector at the ECM (the bigger plug) it always comes loose..cuz when i unplug the ecm fuse and push it back in, it runs great.

where can i find the blue clip part of the connector?

and yeah my car just has the exhaust and headers..most of the work on my car has been suspension stuff

ASE doc

I don't know if that connector is available as a repair part. You may need to find a harness is the wrecking yard and cut off the connector. Then, using the proper release tool, you can swap out connectors on your harness.