DAREDEVIL 1

http://www.profilerperformance.com/sbc-heads-176.html

Marv02

Hey I have thoses Heads.

As for Intake Big Mouth, Eldenbrock hi flow tpi Intake Base, And you choice of runner should work Here in Ca and still pass smog this out of the box porting them is nice but do you realy neede it.

As for Injectors if You PM me I send you to my guy he will cut you a great deal and get you the correct injector for what you goning to build But you need to know what you going to build before you order them he also has a hook up for parts and a chip you can also talk to him on your build he will help you out in real world what will be the best combo for you to build.
But Please dont waste his time if real just a looky lou.

This guy will not sell you stuff that will not work point you in the right direction he a great guy lots of great info.

Like I said before I wished I put a roller cam in the motor instead I just trying to justifié spending anouther grand to swap my cam over now.


I will most likley not gain any H/P or TQ with the RPM range I want the cam for.
But with a roller you dont have to worry about what oil to use do to lack of Zinc in the off the sheff type oil and your cam going flat on you this my main reason wanting a Roller cam.

As for a cam Be carful watch you @50 numbers keep it under 224 as a rule of thumb keep your C/L above 110.

As for compression that also up to you with gas prices something to think about With Auminum heads you can run Pump gas up to 11 to 1 but you have to run the high dollar stuff it add up, if you run as me 9,5 to 10 to 1you can gwet away with reg gas.

If you want to run 12+ to 1 race gas last time I purchased gas gas for my bike it was like $8.00 a gallon.


So when Pump gas hit $8.00 a gallon LOL just think what race gas is going to cost.

I dont know if your rich I make good money for a living but I rather spend the least as possible at the pump to get to point A to point B.

And No I not going to get a Prius LOL I though about it my self for a Family daily driver LOL.

Marv02

I was told about those heads after I purchesd my Tick Flows.

Those prices are for a Bare Head Each.

cruzplcs

I found this Website with a 383 chevy stroker with 350 Horsepower and TPI setup. for 7,200 and with the Computer chip for 575 so in total is 7,775 you guys think its a good deal?

dspencer24

iTrader: (3)

no!

Marv02

Build your own this way You know whats it it.

Not some guy you dont know and put junk parts in it.

We have the hook up let us point you in the right direction.

But you need to know what kind of uesable power you want.

Hey I have my OEM L98 sitting in the back of the garage if you want to buy it this way you can take your sweet time building it.

It ran fine when I pulled it out my Vett.

dspencer24

iTrader: (3)

First, why dont you go talk to a decent local machine shop and check there pricing and pick there minds alittle if you dont hear what you like dont use them and try another.
then pull your motor and have it rebuilt or stroke it to 383
then port yout tpi intake look up or 385in2005 or cruisinartvette talk to them about pricing. porting your exsisting tpi will be cheaper (or get an hsr if you dont have smog ).
Get bigger injectors and
get heads and headers.
This is a hell of alot cheaper then 7000$.
There has been so many suggestions so far on here, listen to these guys cause they have done it, and im in the process of doing it. Try and stay away from internet engines.

Marv02

Where in Cal are you at.

cruzplcs

in compton ca.

cruzplcs

ok thanks and even if i bored the engine and do the ported do i have to burn the chip to?

Marv02

YES if you port if change to headers any thing like this you need to Burn a chip you might be running lean if you dont and lean is BAD.

Rich you will chug motor I much rather run rich than Lean and burn the motor up.

If you going to port it you need to change the cam this will coke the porting job then you need to change the intake if not this will coke out the porting and Cam You got to Love it.

If I was you get a set of good flowing head that already have the 202 intake and 160 Exhaust valve in them it will cost you less.


Power cost money on the 80's motor they were not ment for power so you have to do some moding to get every thing to work.

Like has been said dont for get about the Drive tran trans and rear end I had back in the day a 1982 TA I blew the rear end up in that it was a 4 speed it did great doughts how do you think I blew the rear end up thats when I fond out the hard way the rearends are not that strong in those cars.

DAREDEVIL 1

Oh, yes they are ..but they are the best IMO !!!

I run theyr stuff on the raceboat and its AWSOME..no need to port or such..maybe match a little but the flow # are SUPER !!!

Marv02

You can but Trick flow both complete for $1100.00 to $1200.00 ready to bolt on.

Power Cost MONEY.

There are other brands of heads but these Have a CA EO# heat cross overs the big valves.

If you want like I have 9.5 to 1 use flat top pistons with 62 cc heads.

OIf you want more compression either have the heads decked or get I think 72 CC with raised dome typy pistons I have look up what combo but there more than 1 why to get the compression up.

But I like being able to use reg pump gas.

Marv02

I grew up In Long Beach there's many good machine shops around you.

Like I said if you have the Cash we can point you were you need to go.

Money talks BS walks.

Now What kind of motor do you want to build a HI RPM screamer that most likly will not pass CA smog or a motor that you can drive everyday and enjoy doing so.

I put mine together my self all new parts for $4500.00 new injectors chip everything but the trans work.
The stock 700R4 will hold up for a little bit just hope you dont break down and have to leave you car there I had freind that lived in Compton, not saying it all bad you know what I getting at.

Like I said what I would done diffrent roller cam extra $1000.00 I and went with next bigger cam 1500 to 5500 RPM range.

As for engine Lope I like the way they sound also but for a everyday car that has to pass CA what I read and know there not a great Combo out there as of now I even asked about a custom made cam.

Marv02

The guy Next door to me Has a 700+H/P 6 speed 1990 Vett It's bad *** but he always is working on it.

It a out state car thats how he gets around smog But he has at least $8000.00 in the Full race block full forged 427 SBC I think he told me he can turn 7000 RPM's and he planning to put Go Go juice on it.

Like I said it a nice car but after putting all that time and money into it it seems like he works on it more than he drives it.

Ya it his fun car he drive a Jeep for his every day car Plus he uses it to tow his vett home when it quit running on him LOL but true.

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

If you want atleast 10 to 1 compression the cheap way is get a Factory GM Hi Performance Corvette L98(87-91) Head Gasket with .028 thickness. Most standard head gasket will be .038 thickness. This is a way you don't have to mill the heads or the block. The gaskest run about $40 from GM and TPIS.

cruzplcs

what are good valve springs?

cruzplcs

Ok i found a Top-End Engine Kits for 1.799 from summit you think its a good deal.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TF...-400/?rtype=10

DAREDEVIL 1

what ever the cam builder recoments !!!

If u want a real good setup, call BOB MADERA...

# 585 654 8583

he is the cam guru #1

Marv02

That cam WILLN"t pass CA smog.

Keep you Duration around 220 to 227 pushing it Max.

Wacth the over Vavle lap.

thedozerman

I am not a so called expert, but I have built several 355 and 383 engines, even a few lb9's. By the time I sent the engine block to the machine shop to have it cleaned up, magnafluxed, decked, cam bearings installed, and align honed I was ending up with anywhere from $600 for a .030 overbore, to as much as $900 for clearance work, decking, boring, etc. I have began to use the summit 4 bolt main 96-00 block which is already clearanced for the stroker crank if you want to stroke it, clearanced for h beam rods, machined deck surface, line honed mains, lined bored cam bearings, installed pipe plugs, brass freeze plugs, 1 piece rear main seal, and black paint. It is already setup for the factory roller cam setup. They are $651.95 with $109 for shipping to your home. That is a heck of a deal. The part # is SUM-150100. Alot of headaches are avoided. You don't have to run to the machine shop or wait for weeks for the machine shop to fix your block, or your block come up not being useable. Summit offers complete rotating assemblies from eagle or scat. Anymore, unless someone wants to reuse their rotating assembly, which I highly discourage unless it is basically a new setup with forged components, I try to encourage them to go ahead and buy a complete rotating assembly. Summit carries complete eagle rotating assemblies which are not much difference in price whether you choose 350 kit or 383. They include a cast steel crank which are rated to 500 hp, (I got a good friend using one in his corvette, it made 573 horsepower and 557 tq with a tko 600 trans and he has put almost ten thousand miles on it and he races it almost every weekend, both street and at the track,) so they are really stout. It also comes with SIR 5140 steel connecting rods, hypereutectic pistons with your choice of flat top or inverted dome, perfect circle piston rings, and clevite bearings. You can get the kits with or without flex plate and damper. You can get them internal balanced for $599 for the 350 with internal balanced, or $824 for 383 internal balance. You can get the external balance with flexplate and harmonic balancer included for $650 for the 350 kit, or $799.95 for the 383 kit. Basically you could have a complete short block minus oil pump for as low as $1360.90 for a 355, or as low as $1560.90 for a 383. If you can put it together yourself, or have a buddy who can, you just saved a lot of cash, and you are working with a new 4 bolt main block and completely new rotating assembly. That price is hard to beat for all new stuff and hard to beat with any kind of performance oriented build. It is a great foundation to build on. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps someone save some money and gain a better foundation to start with.

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

We are passing smog with the XFI cams except the 292XFI. I have a 280XFI with 230* intake -236* exhaust. I wouldn't go bigger than that.

Comps has 252XFI, 260XFI, 268XFI, and 280XFI. take your pick. Read my sig below.

Since you live in Compton then you should come out to our meetings(SC3G an or SoCalTPI).
You can also drive to Dyno Don's shop in Anaheim and buy your headers from him direct.

Marv02

I was looking to go bigger on my Cam my self but I still throwing the idea around is worth the money for the gain.
Do I want to put a Grand to change over to a roller cam.

So far it has been a no.

As for a Cam that passes smog I like most others out there that dont want to push it to far.

I also would be nice to Use headers but finding a good set with CA EO#'s has been Hard most headers out there thatt are shorties you only get 5 to 10 more H/P once again is worth the money and if they dont pass smog I dont want to do the swapping thing around every 2 years my self just to pass smog.

oscarfromla

iTrader: (9)

Dyno Don's headers do not have an EO#, however I've heard of no one that has had a problem passing smog with these headers on and someone told me that a lot of So Cal guys are using these. I got a set of these headers for my build.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

What ever you need to suit the cam lift you want to run.
Off the shelf the TFS195's I listed have springs good for .480 lift
The same heads are available with higher rated springs for more $$$

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

No
cam is wrong type ( flat tappet ) for your engine; backwards step.Computer not real happy with 110 LSA
In any case;
for $750 over the price of the TFS heads alone , you could prob buy exactly what parts you need cheaper individually