RedneckNo4

I have gone through the idle issues threads i can find but my problems seem a bit different, or I'm just extremely confused

I have an 85 TA with original wiring, sensors seem to have been replaced at different times but none of them are original, the short block is an LT-1 from a 71 vette, the top end looks like L98 heads with the edlebrock tpi intake (I bought this I didn't build it sadly) and it has an MSD 5pin HEI dist. and a 6A box, it seems to have been FI stock, and the Fuel injector's are yellow
I'm use to a carburetor on my V8 S10 and had a terrible experience with the TBI swap on it... TPI isn't proving to be much better

the engine cranks for 4-6 seconds and requires my foot to be 1/4 on the throttle in order to start
on a cold start up my idle is rough and at about 1k rpm, as it warms up to operating temperature the idle smooths out, then once it hits what looks like 70 degrees C (I have Celsius and Kpa gauges) which is about 170 F my idle jumps up to 1500 the temp stays there even in traffic when its humid and 98 outside (AC doesn't work...)

when I'm driving the check engine light will randomly come on and the computer will ignore my right foot, it'll continue to idle though, I have to turn the engine off and wait 5 seconds then when I restart it it'll run just fine, it does this completely at random, sometimes it'll do it 3 times in a 30 min drive other times it doesn't happen a single time in a 45 min drive

Also the check engine light will come on for no apparent reason and turn itself off again within a few minutes

also it seems to be running very rich... the first 4 days i had the car I got 18 mpg... now its its getting 9.5

I have two check engine codes, 22 and 33

my tps is set to .544V and the engine will not run with the IAC disconnected for minimum air adjustment(I followed the steps), my fuel pump was replaced and runs perfectly, I cleaned my MAF (its a Bosch, looks aged but not extremely old) and that made no difference, the relay on the firewall closest to the driver's side fender looks original the other two look newer but not brand new

I was also wondering what it takes to swap in a TBI small cap distributor? I still have two from my truck and the MSD 65,000V coil I would like to drop that in rather than the big cap 5 pin

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

based on your description, it sounds like your TPS is going out (if not already). I know you mentioned that you adjusted it but it could be fine one moment and gone the next (which will explain the on and off SES light and the lack of response on highway). You don't have to go out and buy a new one, just go to the junkyard and get one off another thirdgen (even a V6, same unit). It also sounds like your maf might be going. Get another "test" TPS from the jy, then hook it up and unplug your maf and see if the car runs any better...

RedneckNo4

I have a friend with a 90 camaro I'll borrow his TPS for a drive, my first idea was the tps (same thing happened on my 92 GA) but since my voltages matched what was in the sticky threads I wasn't sure
with the MAF i'm a little out of luck I attempted to check the voltages while it was running but i couldn't get the wires to sit right I'll see how it runs unplugged
the junkyards around me don't see many 3rd gens, in the last 3 years I have seen one 92 fire bird

thanks for the help, any idea's on the tbi Dist? I know its for a completely different computer but that little dist is amazing with the 65,000 volt coil

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

unfortunately, I can't help you with the dizzy question, I'd try asking in the "Electronics" section, they might know. If it helps, I have a small cap distributor from the factory with the remote mounted coil (not the big fat cap with the coil mounted on top)...

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Straight drop in if you use or make a large to small cap adapter ( wire colors the same, just match up ) for the big plug and have wiring from small cap dist coil ( 2 wire ) connector to remote coil
What guys do when installing a HSR intake that won't clear HEI dist
Both type computer controlled dist are interchangeable on computer controlled systems

RedneckNo4

well I'm assuming it came stock with the 7pin hei then, it looked like all the original wires were intact i'll look into it a bit as I can but there isn't a lot of space to see anything, I do have all the wires I cut off my truck though so thats not a problem if the wires are the same color

RedneckNo4

so I replaced my MAF... it drove home just fine, but now it wont run, it starts and slowly dies, its does the same thing with the tps disconnected, it has plenty of fuel so i'm extremely confused

RedneckNo4

another interesting thing... i have the original fuel pump relay and one other relay in the normal spot.. but the GM part number on the other relay isn't for the maf power or burn off

RedneckNo4

i went back to advanced and returned the reman Bosch MAF and bought a brand new Micro-Tech Part No. 49-1018, it looks really cheap on the outside but the big circuit board inside (that can't be good for flow) is really robust looking, the circuits and components on it are all oversized and over done I'm thinking its more reliable but not as sensitive as the bosch... but since the MAF seems to be a big problem on these maybe it's worth it?

ether way the new one did the trick it starts right up doesn't run rich anymore, also my idle dropped to 600 warm in gear and lopes 100ish rpms at a stop

86White_T/A305

the fact that you need to have your foot on the gas pedal for cold start up means you need more air and your running pretty rich at start up. ive had a bad tps and cts cause this very same symptom..at random times..the cts sensor was just old and gave false readings time to time and would make the ecm dump fuel,the tps on the other hand..had a dead spot on it where it would read 0volts..usually right around 1/4 throttle to cruise..this would also tell the ecm to go to limp home mode and wont respond to you flooring the gas pedal aswell.also try starting the car and shaking the wires to the sensors..over time they will dryout and become very brittle and easy to have a break in the wire without being seen..when the car is running and certain vibrations will make it work..then not work..or same thing applies to underhood heat will do the same.

i know its frustrating..and throwing parts at it might not get you anywhere either if its a electrical issue and not a mechanical failure.this takes time to diagnose with a clear head.

id seriously try setting the iac again and adjust the minimum idle screw untill the car will idle without the iac plugged in..this is highly important..and do it on the car after it has been warmed up.once the ecm knows where idle is..it should start easier..without the aid of your foot..then work on the next issue.look up the codes it gives you if when they come on..and trouble shoot each one and you should be narrowing down the culprit and pg should return back to normal.

RedneckNo4

thanks for the encouragement, I'm assuming my tps is just like yours

I've been inspecting the wires as I can thus why i noticed that i 1 only have 2 relays where i should have 3, and 2 I have two extra relays on my fenders (up by the front clip) that don't have part numbers and i haven't read anything about?

my cts's (I have one on each side) are both brand new, the brass isn't the slightest bit corroded and the Teflon tape is still bright white

I think once I replace my TPS it'll be running exactly like it should then i'll work on the dist swap

86White_T/A305

if you have a voltmeter then you can easily test the tps on the car and rule out whether its bad or not.also sometimes when using teflon tape on the cts is a bad idea because the sensor does not make a proper ground connection to the block itself and thus..throwing off its readings entirely.

as for the relays..its hard to say if anything is missing or not..all depends on the setup if the motor has been swapped before hand.some of them could have been deleted...but keep at it one thing at a time and verify whats working 100% or not and you should come to a conclusion and a running car again.

RedneckNo4

actually after i replaced the reman MAF with the new cheepo brand one it drove alright (at work at the moment), not the best throttle response but more power and not running rich i'm assuming thats from my unreplaced TPS