5.7TPICHUY

I got a 1989 Iroc 5.7 TPI I want to get some good HP/TQ out of it what kind of mods should i do?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Remove MAF screens, cut out the bottom of the air filter boxes, get a LT1 Camshaft from a 4th Gen Z-28, get some aluminum heads (you should have em already), port out the plenum (look at picture bleow (notice the lower ledges have been grinded bown with a Dremel), Build a ram air using the *** light openings ( may cause engine to run hotter if you do not have an front lower valance), port and polish heads, and reprogram the EPROM.

5.7TPICHUY

yea im thinking LT4 Hot Cam, i already have the air filter boxes cut and got the ram air, im not sure if i got aluminum heads how would i know if i do?, i also got a Hypertech Chip came with the car when i bought it so i figure why not put it in, i have'nt removed the screen on the MAF but wouldnt that effect the car in a way?

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Tap on the head with something blunt but not to hard. You should here the difference or the obvious cling of iron or clunk of aluminum. Also a scratch should tella lot too. If the head scratches with much force, then its iron but if it scarthes rather easily, then its aluminum. Or you can take of the driverside valve cover, write down the casting number and do a search on the web. If its aftermarket, the brand name should be embossed inside or around the head.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

As for the LT4 HotCam, I think itll drop your vacuum way too much and cause you problems. If you go that route, you may have to make changes in the MemCal. Thats why I suggested the LT1 Cam because it is SO MUCH Identicle but with a bit more lift. Food for thought bro. Good luck.

King NothingSS

whats your budget? thats the biggest question. full intake and full exhaust would be my recommendation and that includes getting bigger runners. did you buy a white IROC that was for sale?

5.7TPICHUY

no my iroc in metallic burgandy. . i want to do a Borla Exhuast. . i really dont have a budget on how much i spend fixing the engine to get good hp/tq

King NothingSS

ah ok. yeah intake and exhaust will help out, i don't recommend de-screening the maf or cutting out the baffles for the air boxes but some people have reasons to cut corners and save money when you can actually hurt your engine by doing those things, there is a reason they are there. for intake i'd recommend the SLP siamese runners since you've already got the baffles cut-out. for exhaust i'd just say headers and either true duals (if you have 2 cats) or just stick with a borla muffler. next time i'm in the bay i'll try and meet up with you, i'd love to check out your IROC

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

The screens for the MAF sensor are to keep out large foriegn objects from landing on the filament which would impact the airflow reading. On top of that, you still have the MAF Burn-off system which burns off any foriegn objects from the filament. If you have your air filters in place and have all connections where the intake tubing connects properly sealed and air tight, then you can remove the screens. Its a choice and the choice is yours. From me to you, its advice. As for cutting out the bottom of the air filter box, you will be introducing less air restrictions but you do run the risk of getting a grocery bag clogging up one or both intake ducts. Also the air filters may get water soaked more easily when it rains, especially if your driving too close to someone while its raining. The best recommendation is that in order to gain raw power and torque, you have to spend a lot of money. These small mods will release some power but not very many and 88BlackIROCZ is very correct. Others like to use the fog light ducts to create a Ramair system. Those ducts are to help keep the coolant temps low. Here in So. Cali, I chose not to make the Ram Air because of the extreme summers. A couple days ago, here in the Imperial Valley, we had 2 days of 116*. Too hot. To have more power, you need to spend money.

5.7TPICHUY

i got the ramair running thru the back of fog lights but my car has a overheating problem running its fine but when at a dead stop on a hot day it overheats and the radiator,waterpump,thermostat are all new

King NothingSS

yep yep yep . . . . 116?!?!?!?!?! i thought it was bad at 110 here in the central valley. grab a beer man and relax inside!!!!!

King NothingSS

are the sensors on the thermostat housing new also? check your fan relay and unplug it to see if it's clean or gummed up. mine was gummed up and wasn't coming on and now that i cleaned it the fan comes on at 234 degrees, too high IMO but as long as it works i'm happy with it

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

234*!!! WOW.. I got a blank EPROM programmed to turn on my fans at 183* with a 180* thermostat. A buddy of mine here on the board hooked me up.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

No beer today. had a few yesterday while watching Avatar. That movie was .

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

The screens are actually not to preven debris but rather to help smooth out the airflow. Take the screen outta your kitchen faucet and see how eratic the water flow is. Same idea. ....if it was to keep debris off the filament, then i'd say your air filters weren't doing there job!!!!!! LOL

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

The sceens in the faucet act as aerators which give the user the look of a fuller water flow. It was made to make the user think that there is more water thus reducing water useage. I was a construction plimber for 8 months at mass housing production sites. Dont get me wrong, the water flow looks more smooth, but in the case of the screens in the MAF sensor, you info does sound precise. I never thought of it in that manner. Good reply Abubaca.

5.7TPICHUY

are both my fans suppose to go on cause one does go on at 220 but never seen the other one go on at all

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

there is a temp switch that is on the passenger side head. Itll turn on one fan when it reaches its set temperature (not sure what that remp is but you can buy on from Hypertech). As for the other fan, it is controlled by the ECM. The sensor is located in front of the intake manifold. It has 2 prongs. It tells the ECM how hot the coolant is. Then depending what the factory temp is programmed in the EPROM (usually 220*) it'll activate the fan. This setting can be changed down to 180* but youll need a Tunerpro and a MemCal connector to connect to the PC, and lower the setting in the program.

GTA Sammy

iTrader: (1)

"I got a 1989 Iroc 5.7 TPI I want to get some good HP/TQ out of it what kind of mods should i do?"

Power Adders!!!! ie- Nitrous, Turbo, Supercharger
Nitrous would be the cheapest initiallly but will cost you more $$$ as you keep recharging your Bottle... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NOS-05151NOS/
Turbo system means you have to be a decent fabricator with a great understanding of turbos...
Supercharger Systems are out there for our TPI's http://www.procharger.com/GM/gm_auto.shtml but they have a hefty initial cost. With that being said, I have spent a ton of cash trying to make a High output N/A engine!!!! Heads $1500, Intake $900, Cam $300, Exhaust $1000, etc etc... and much much more!!!

For Normally Aspirated engines
https://www.thirdgen.org/mods2
The Heads, Cam and Intake sections are good reads...

Holley Stealth Ram...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WND-7540P/

Go through the technical articals on the Home page

Abubaca

iTrader: (3)

I can't argue that. ....either way though, for whatever the reason, I'd leave the screens in my faucet AND my MAF!!!!!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

. Yeah. I have my faucet screens in place too. But my MAF screens were arlready takin out when I got my IROC 7 years ago.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

If you do choose nitrous or a supercharger, keep in mind that youll need to spend even more money on reinforcing your chassis and driveline. There will be so much more torque that your body will twist and flex so if you dont beef up the driveline and more, you'll run into serious issues IF you abuse the heck out of the power adders. Food for thought.