Slowridr

iTrader: (1)

No but I am going to get that EGR temp thing in the next day or so. Obviously I didnt do the cruise I had mentioned to you.

You were absolutly right about engine temps and all when it comes to that EGR and O2 explaination you gave earlier in the thread. My car got so hot today just driving around town (while using the A/C).

I had to stop and let it cool down some and turn off the A/C. That meant me and my family roasted it was very hot today.

I was thinking about what you said re: ECM maybe adjusting the car lean and making it hot w/out that sensor hooked up.

Doc will hooking this thing up help with the running hot?

Ill tell you 1 other thing Ive noticed. There is a tube that runs from the Air Select and Diverter Valve (ADV) that I think is suppose to hook to the CAT. Well when i had the new CAT installed the guy didnt connect that up. I didnt even think to check all that stuff and since I passed inspection I didnt think was that big of a deal. There is no hole or fitting on the CAT for any thing to hook up to it. He told me that this was a universal CAT.

Will that pipe that comes down on the Pass side of the car (from the ADV, mine is cut off and crimped) not being hooked up casue any problems with running hot or will the EGR sensor Im adding still work?

I am adding a 3 core aluminum radiator, engine oil cooler, and transmission cooler. Atlanta summers are blazing hot and I love my A/C. I cant destroy running my car running my A/C and I know there is a way to get it to run cool while running the A/C.

I dont know what to think about the Code 13.......... you think that tan wire will take care of that? I still think that tan wire goes with that square connector. In any case if I go ahead and ground it why cant I ground it to the body or on the block somewhere else. Why does it have to go back in the same place?

Slowridr

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for that long post.

I have 2 bottoms line questions

Will installing the EGR pressure temp sensor make the car run cooler even though that ADT is not fully connected.

Have any more thoughts on that tan wire.

Slowridr

iTrader: (1)

I found this when searching EGR posts

http://chevythunder.com/fuel%20injec...temp%20sw..htm

Also heres and incredible thread talking about the EGR stuff very long but has good info.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...sor-has-2.html

Slowridr

iTrader: (1)

Doc I was looking at myy EGR again and noticed that that sensor is still screwed in but tie wire and connector is broken off. something be spliced in you think?

ASE doc

Hey slowrider, The tube from the AIR(air injection reation) system to the cat is part of the "three way catalyst" system. When connected, this tube injects fresh air into the cat helping it to oxydize any remaing HC and CO in the exhaust stream. The AIR system injects air at the manifolds on cold start to help reduce HC and CO emissions during warm up enrichment. Once the engine reaches operating temp, air is diverted to the cat. The universal cat is available with or without the air inlet that this tube would connect to. And they are the same cost either way.

Many techs dont understand the function of this system and make repairs without taking it into account. However, if your car passed DEQ, you should be fine. The truth is that the AIR pumps used on these vehicle were poorly made and often dont work well after about 60K anyway.

I couldnt tell you if your engine is running lean due to the lack of O2 sensor function. The point is, without the O2 sensor, the engine will run however it runs, in open loop, without closed loop fuel correction. So if the engine tends to run rich or lean because of a misreading MAF or any other cause, there will be no integrator or block learn to compensate. Generally, older engines require more fuel and will tend to run lean more than rich. The only way to verify whether its rich or lean is to watch datasream using a scanner. And without closed loop fuel management alot of what clues us into rich or lean conditions will not be relevant.

The O2 ground can go anywhere on the engine. If I didnt make that clear, I appologize. It simply needs a clean engine ground. I am quite sure that the tan wire in the square connector is not the same circuit. You can verify that the square connector was in fact the IAT(inlet air temp) sensor by finding the sensor beneath the rear of the plenum and seeing if the tan wire cut for the square connector is spliced to the connector at the sensor. I would bet it is.

Your hot condition with AC on may very well be a combination of lean fuel mixture and cooling system dysfunction. Its very good that you thought to replace the radiator. Be sure to check or replace the hoses and cap too. In replacing the radiator youll also be replacing coolant which is good. Be sure to use 50/50 mix of green coolant. If its at all cloudy, drain and flush the system, drain again after flushing, then add half the system capacity (capacity is about 16 quarts) of pure green coolant, doesnt matter what brand, its all the same, and top off with water.

Slowridr

iTrader: (1)

Man I love your signature (I know Ive said that before).

Anyway Im gonna do all those things youve mentioned and Ill get back to you. Good news on that Air Diverter thing.

Ill also do these make engine run cooler things as well. Im sure Ill have plenty of opportunity (heat) to try these things out because I am betting this Ga heat aint letting up any time soon!

Is not the Manifold Air Temp, Inlet Air Temp, and Idle Air Temp all the same thing? That was one of the first things I found unplugged and plugged up a few months ago. My car was throwing a IAT code, I forget what #, and I found it wasnt even pluged up. As a matter of fact one of the plugs that I am trying to figure out now was pluged into the harness and this sensor was not plugged to anything. After I switched those plugs the SES stoped coming on.

Doc this is what mystifies me about what the car is doing now. It didnt have a CAT the wires I am havin you help me figure out were not pluged in and it was throwing no codes. I add the CAT and bam I now get codes.

The only other variable that changed was I only used the car for short trips. Now I have done these cruises and I see the codes so maybe thats what has caused the problems I now have. Its also a heck of a lot hotter. That make any sense?

ASE doc

Thats is something. Part of it may be that the EGR only really works normally under cruise conditions. The other is that the O2 ground wire may have been broken when the intake was done and the code didnt set until you drove at cruise. The single wire O2 also doesnt read consistantly except at cruise.

I wonder if the EGR sensor wire wasnt also broken when the intake was done.

As far as the IAT goes, your finding the connectors mixed up doesnt suprise me at all. And yes those terms all describe the same part. MAT, IAT, the same thing.

I liked the thread that you referred me to. Thats a neat idea that I hadnt thought of. Seems that it would work just fine if your EGR temp sensor ends up being a bust. Try though to connect it if you can. The weather pack terminals are available at NAPA. Im betting that the actual terminal is still there and your freind broke the plastic connector body off.

ASE doc

Hey Slowrider, Did you ever get your problems solved? Let us know.

Slowridr

iTrader: (1)

No not yet.

As I think about this I get very frustrated and unmotivated. My switch for my fan is shorting out (my fault I guess, couldve been patient and bought a better switch) so my car ran really hot a little over a week ago.

Im looking for this EGR sensor thing and being told not to good a chance of finding it.

I was wondering since I have the sensor there can I not just run a wire to the harness and just splice it into the harness (cut off the connector on the harness of course)? I heard these things rarely go bad. Maybe thats why they are not made anymore.

I guess I need to study that link I sent you about wiring the EGR differently to do the same function.

Let me ask you this (hope I havent asked this before) is it only the EGR sensor piece not funtioning that would be causing it to run hot at cruise or would the malfunctioning o2 possibly contribute too? I havent grounded that brown wire yet that we think is likely a ground.

I have let that car sit since the last I posted to you on here. I crank it up day before yesterday refilled the radiator (boil over lost almost all coolant when switch shorted and fan cut out) drove the car about 2 miles and it didnt seem to have hurt anything. But I turned on my A/C and now it seems to be leaking. I just closed the hood at that point I was so disgusted.

Im not giving up but damn Im just ready to enjoy driving the car! Ive got the stuff to finish off my interior nice and put some nice speakers in for good sound but I cant go on until I know the car will not act up when I take it out.


Its driving me nuts.

Doc didnt think you were couseling today did you?

ASE doc

Hey Slowrider, I understand your frustration. These old cars will have their troubles but theyre well worth the effort. As far as the EGR and or O2 causing the engine to run hot, both are possible culprits but the O2 has a much more direct effect. Definitely connect the O2 ground as thats easy.

If you cant find the EGR sensor and are getting frustrated, just go with the alternative fix and dont sweat it too much. Do be sure to deal with your fan asap, this is important stuff.

Most mportant, dont let yourself get too down. Its just a machine and you will master it with patience and focused effort. It is good some times to step away for a moment just to collect our thoughts and take a deep breath. Good luck my freind.

Slowridr

iTrader: (1)

You are right on the money.

I will recollect myself and get this thing going.

Slowridr

iTrader: (1)

Hey Doc,

I have done the ground wire, just hot wired the fans to a switch I can turn on and off, and put the timing dead on where its suppose to be. The only thing left is the O2 sensor. Its crazy the way it runs hot now. Never did this before.

I started a thread under electrical but I wanna ask you. Where can I get some understanding of auto wiring especially testing. I am tired of throwing on new parts instead of testing first then knowing the why behind replacement or repair.

Maybe you can help me with if you have the time?

By the way I have not done the EGR stuff yet. I guess Ill be fabricating one. Ive been hoping Ill find a used one but no such luck.