puddingmmmmmmmm

iTrader: (5)

89 305 TPI

I was having a really bad problem with gas leaking into my oil pan so I assumed I had a bunch of bad injectors being that they were 20 years old so I went ahead and replaced them. At the same time I took my manifolds off and put a set of the summit headers because I had a bad exhaust manifold leak. Before I did this the car would turn on perfectly for the most part, but it would run like poop, and just dump massive gas into my oil pan. Now that I have put in new injectors and a set of headers it seems that it will not start. When I turn the key all it does is crank crank backfire crank crank crank crank. I'm getting ~40psi to my fuel rail, spark from my plugs. plug #1 is constantly wet like it's flooded and most of the rest of the plugs were dry besides #5 I believe. I've tried pulling codes and all I get is 12 repeatedly. Any help would be nice.

Ok, just noticed that when the fuel pump primes, it shoots up to 42psi than immediately starts dropping when I leave the key on run. I don't know if that's normal or not. Also, I forgot to mention I just replaced my timing chain before all of the above so I have that ruled out too.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Pressure shoudl NOT go down that fast, it should hold steady for atleast 10min before slowly go down.

Either you got bad injectors or its leaking thru the regulator.

Do you have spark ? Did you reconnect everything after the change ?
when you cranking have your timing checked and see what timing you pulling on it..
Check to see if you have spark when cranking.

Get back here with some info about the stuff above

EDIT: also you have much fuel in your oil you said ? you could have bad pistonrings wich allows fuel to drain down to your oil. I would take an compression test on the engine just to see what pressure it holds little work but you get to know what health your engine is in..

Also battery voltage is extremly important on these engines, so have it 100% charged when trying stuff.

puddingmmmmmmmm

iTrader: (5)

Well the injectors are brand new from southbay which not ruling it out, but makes me believe that isn't the problem. How would I go about checking the regulator?

Also, I do have spark while cranking, and I'm pretty positive everything is connected to where it should be, although just to double check, does the regulator vacum line plug into the plenum on the passenger side. I dead set my timing to 10 degrees, is that the appropriate setting, and how do I go about testing my timing while cranking?

Fuel is no longer getting into my oil since I replaced the new injectors, I had it fire up earlier but it died after 10 seconds. Checked the oil and no gas smell, so I believe that problem has been fixed.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

The correct timing is 6 BTDC (but it shoudl atleast try to start on 10) but for the test, set it to 6 BTDC and try to start it again. Did you remove the intake and distributor? if so, did you put it back the same way ?

regarding the injectors I thought it flooded again ? if you have spark and the plugs are wet you have the 2 things thats needed.

Have you tried starting gas ? to see if it fires up ? If so, the fuel mixture isnt correct in the cylinders (wich means it dosent get correct ammount of fuel)

The vacuumline from the regulator hooks up to the little needle in the plenum (above the regulator)

To test your timing while cranking is just to hook up your timing light to NR1 sparkplug (the one on driverside closest to the radiator) and have a friend check the timing while you crank.. also you could try starting it with the EST conncot unplugged (as when you set the timing)

The regulator can be checked by clamp/crimping the return line (rubber part of the fuellines) to see if the pressure stops dropping, if it stops dropping when pinching the returnline its the regulator that fails. if nothing happens, then try to crimp/pinch the inlet one, and if the pressure stopps falling, it might be the fuelpump thats letting back fuel thru it (meaning its broken)

Check those things, and also double check your battery voltage, its really important to have an fullt charged battery on these cars.

puddingmmmmmmmm

iTrader: (5)

Ok, will try the timing at 6 when I get a chance, and yes I did remove the intake and distributor and I did put it back the same way. Also, replaced dist. cap and rotor, and plugs.

It is flooding, but I don't think it's flooding into my oil pan anymore. Will be able to look at that more thoroughly after I get it running.

What is the est that needs unplugged while setting the timing, and does it need to be unplugged if you dead time it?

This was really wierd, so I don't know if the pressure gauge was working properly the first time. When I pinched off the return line, it very slowly moved down. When I pinched off the inlet line it also very slowly went down. Now after doing both these checks, I didn't crimp anything, and I held 40psi for about 7-8 minutes than the pressure started showing a very slow drop. So I have no idea what is going on there.

Also have had a battery charger on it for most of the day so I know my battery is good

puddingmmmmmmmm

iTrader: (5)

Oh and when I used starter fluid it fired for a few seconds than just died off, the second time it back fired through the plenum and caught on fire.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Then you have some seriuos fuelling issiues with either your regulator, injectors or pressure.. cause it isnt firing when crakning normally, its just floods it.

hmm.. if I where you I would call the ones that sold the injectors and just tell how the car is acting, its possible that you got bad injectors (yes even if they are new, I tried accel one time, they where junk when they arrived.. so its a possibility)

cause if it starts when using starting fluid it means it dosent getting the fuel right.

southbay08

Check the diaphragm in your fuel pressure regulator....might need to be replaced.

If all else fails we will be more than happy to re-flow the injectors.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

If his diaphragm is broken there might come fuel thru the vacuumhose coming from the regulator. One thing you can do to is to build pressure over and over again, and then remove the airnossle (the Y part) and smell for heavy fuel, sometimes you can evern hear if the injectors letting thru fuel (just to doublecheck so its not an injector error)

Cause if it starts with starting fluid its a fuelling error.

puddingmmmmmmmm

iTrader: (5)

What Y part are you referring too so I can check that out? And could the regulator cause the car not to start or is there going to be other issues that would be causing that.

What Y part are you referring too so I can check that out? And could the regulator cause the car not to start or is there going to be other issues that would be causing that.

Also, in my haynes manual it says the injectors should be between 11 - 14 ohms resistance and mine are reading ~ 15? Would that cause a problem?

Theking

iTrader: (1)

I mean the airintake part that looks like Y the one the MAF is on, and the thing thats connected to the Throttle Body :-)


If you remove that you can see in to your plenum and listen for leaking injectors (it needs to be very quite in the room you listening.


A value of 12 - 16ohm is fine for your injectors.
But they should be close to each other, and not change that much when they are hot.

The book is refereing to the stock Multecs wich had a little different resistence. All injectors under 12 are usually junk..

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Also try this 2 guides:

Fuel System Diagnosis (TPI) : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/tech..._Diagnosis.zip

Engine Cranks but Will Not Run (TPI) : http://theking.joakimweb.se/z28/tech...t_wont_Run.zip

You have more guides etc at my page http://irocz.info.se/ under Tech Central, but these 2 would help you a long way at startm you should be able to rule out ALOT with those 2 guides above..

puddingmmmmmmmm

iTrader: (5)

Ok, apperantly I thought the fuel pump would not prime if the f/p / injector 2 fuse had blown so I blew that off the first day of trouble shooting. I don't know what caused me to double check today but I did and the fuses was blown. I put a new fuse and turned the key and sputtered on, ran like crap, than started easing itself out. I guess the extra gas that was leaking made it run like crap at first. I'm going to take a wild guess and say that if one of the injector fuses are blown than the injectors are going to just let the gas leak down on that one side. Correct me if I'm wrong please, it seemed to fix my problem though.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

IF the injectors dont get power they will be on CLOSED mode.
They only open if they get voltage. So either they hanged or something else made it flood.

But if its working fine now there shouldnt be anything to worry about. If you had a blown fuse that was the cause if your No start situation.. BUT keep an eye on the fuse, cause WHY ? did it blow out in the first place.. Maybe you have some bad wiring somewhere ? that made it blow out.

puddingmmmmmmmm

iTrader: (5)

Well like I said I replaced my injectors because they were old and maybe thought that was why my car kept flooding previously. Is it a possibility that one of the old injectors shorted and blown that fuse. I never really tested them or anything so I'm just thinking of the possibilities.

And thank you for all your help

Theking

iTrader: (1)

Aah so the fuse can had been blown before you replaced the injectors :-)

Glad it sorted out now :-)

Happy driving!!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

You can also pull the vac line that is connected to the FPR and smell it there. If there is a strong gas order, then you have a FPR leak.

Theking

iTrader: (1)

True!