problem getting started
03-15-2010, 06:40 PM
#51
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Re: problem getting started
http://www.fuelinjection.com/portinj.html
http://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/ecm_swap_730/
http://www.chevythunder.com/
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/sp...n_______va.htm ( speedo)
Last edited by witnlyn; 03-15-2010 at 06:49 PM.
03-15-2010, 07:58 PM
#52
Re: problem getting started
Well, I think you are barking up the wrong tree with VATS... I'd be checking the injectors like witnyln suggested.
You would only need a VATS bypass module if you were installing a VATS ECM into a non-VATS car... not the other way around.
You would only need a VATS bypass module if you were installing a VATS ECM into a non-VATS car... not the other way around.
Last edited by ternandes; 03-15-2010 at 08:05 PM.
03-15-2010, 08:11 PM
#53
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Re: problem getting started
Concerning your Fuel Gauge.....
It may not be the case with your car, but everytime I have worked on a car with a pegged-over-full gauge, it has always been a bad Ground for the Sending Unit in the Tank.
It may not be the case with your car, but everytime I have worked on a car with a pegged-over-full gauge, it has always been a bad Ground for the Sending Unit in the Tank.
03-16-2010, 05:24 AM
#54
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Re: problem getting started
Exactly... When I got home and read the instructions that came with this... it says exactly that... I've got emails into Hawks and the mfg.... it tells me to put it on a pin on my ECM that I don't have because my ECM doesn't support VATS.
Last edited by rrwebster; 03-16-2010 at 08:37 AM.
03-16-2010, 08:15 AM
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Re: problem getting started
Okay... Fuel injectors tested...
stuck a test light into each side of the injector wiring. #1 Cylinder
first checked the fuses... both okay.
second tested the test light.. was okay
cranked engine... nothing on the test light...even when the engine started for it's brief seconds...
Looked at my ECM Wires D15 and D16 they aren't the colors in the chart link you sent me...
now what?
stuck a test light into each side of the injector wiring. #1 Cylinder
first checked the fuses... both okay.
second tested the test light.. was okay
cranked engine... nothing on the test light...even when the engine started for it's brief seconds...
Looked at my ECM Wires D15 and D16 they aren't the colors in the chart link you sent me...
now what?
Last edited by rrwebster; 03-16-2010 at 08:38 AM.
03-16-2010, 08:34 AM
#56
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Re: problem getting started
Okay... Fuel injectors tested...
stuck a test light into each side of the injector wiring. #1 Cylinder
first checked the fuses... both okay.
second tested the test light.. was okay
cranked engine... nothing on the test light...even when the engine started for it's brief seconds...
Looked at my ECS Wires D15 and D16 they aren't the colors in the chart link you sent me...
now what?
stuck a test light into each side of the injector wiring. #1 Cylinder
first checked the fuses... both okay.
second tested the test light.. was okay
cranked engine... nothing on the test light...even when the engine started for it's brief seconds...
Looked at my ECS Wires D15 and D16 they aren't the colors in the chart link you sent me...
now what?
Looking in my 86 service manual pin d15 and d16 are the same for that year... but the wire colors are different
I probed both d15 and d16 when key off.... key on and crank...
I get 0 volts on either...
back to VATS ?
03-16-2010, 09:48 AM
#57
Re: problem getting started
The ECM controls injectors by providing a ground to the circuit. Therefore, when the key is in the RUN position, you should have power at those pins.
Are you using a meter or a test lamp to probe D15 and D16? First of all, your ECM should be disconnected when you do this. Otherwise you run the risk of damaging the ECM.
A meter should give you ~12V at both of those pins with ignition switch ON. A test light may glow, it may blink for a second at most, but may also give you nothing at all. That's because the test light allows current flow, and the resistance of the injectors will cause a voltage drop to where the light may be very dim or not illuminate at all.
On the other hand, a meter has close to an infinite resistance, so very little current flows and you get a fairly accurate STATIC voltage measurement.
If a meter shows 0V at D15 and D16, go back to your fuse panel and verify 12V going into and out of those fuses. The key must be in the RUN position for you to get a readout. In this case a light will be sufficient to check for power, although a meter will be more precise.
If you still get 0V, you need to troubleshoot your ignition circuit.
The first thing I would do in that case is to jump power to both of those fuses. If the car starts and runs longer than a few seconds, then I would bet you have an open ignition circuit.
Are you using a meter or a test lamp to probe D15 and D16? First of all, your ECM should be disconnected when you do this. Otherwise you run the risk of damaging the ECM.
A meter should give you ~12V at both of those pins with ignition switch ON. A test light may glow, it may blink for a second at most, but may also give you nothing at all. That's because the test light allows current flow, and the resistance of the injectors will cause a voltage drop to where the light may be very dim or not illuminate at all.
On the other hand, a meter has close to an infinite resistance, so very little current flows and you get a fairly accurate STATIC voltage measurement.
If a meter shows 0V at D15 and D16, go back to your fuse panel and verify 12V going into and out of those fuses. The key must be in the RUN position for you to get a readout. In this case a light will be sufficient to check for power, although a meter will be more precise.
If you still get 0V, you need to troubleshoot your ignition circuit.
The first thing I would do in that case is to jump power to both of those fuses. If the car starts and runs longer than a few seconds, then I would bet you have an open ignition circuit.
03-16-2010, 09:50 AM
#58
Re: problem getting started
FYI, the VATS system normally interferes with cranking and the ECM. So even if you had a VATS issue, you would still have 12V at the injectors, but the ECM would not provide the ground.
IMO you have successfully eliminated your ECM and VATS as an issue, at least for the short term. Once the engine is running, you can verify correct ECM operation.
IMO you have successfully eliminated your ECM and VATS as an issue, at least for the short term. Once the engine is running, you can verify correct ECM operation.
03-16-2010, 10:00 AM
#59
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Re: problem getting started
The ECM controls injectors by providing a ground to the circuit. Therefore, when the key is in the RUN position, you should have power at those pins.
Are you using a meter or a test lamp to probe D15 and D16? First of all, your ECM should be disconnected when you do this. Otherwise you run the risk of damaging the ECM.
A meter should give you ~12V at both of those pins with ignition switch ON. A test light may glow, it may blink for a second at most, but may also give you nothing at all. That's because the test light allows current flow, and the resistance of the injectors will cause a voltage drop to where the light may be very dim or not illuminate at all.
On the other hand, a meter has close to an infinite resistance, so very little current flows and you get a fairly accurate STATIC voltage measurement.
If a meter shows 0V at D15 and D16, go back to your fuse panel and verify 12V going into and out of those fuses. The key must be in the RUN position for you to get a readout. In this case a light will be sufficient to check for power, although a meter will be more precise.
If you still get 0V, you need to troubleshoot your ignition circuit.
The first thing I would do in that case is to jump power to both of those fuses. If the car starts and runs longer than a few seconds, then I would bet you have an open ignition circuit.
Are you using a meter or a test lamp to probe D15 and D16? First of all, your ECM should be disconnected when you do this. Otherwise you run the risk of damaging the ECM.
A meter should give you ~12V at both of those pins with ignition switch ON. A test light may glow, it may blink for a second at most, but may also give you nothing at all. That's because the test light allows current flow, and the resistance of the injectors will cause a voltage drop to where the light may be very dim or not illuminate at all.
On the other hand, a meter has close to an infinite resistance, so very little current flows and you get a fairly accurate STATIC voltage measurement.
If a meter shows 0V at D15 and D16, go back to your fuse panel and verify 12V going into and out of those fuses. The key must be in the RUN position for you to get a readout. In this case a light will be sufficient to check for power, although a meter will be more precise.
If you still get 0V, you need to troubleshoot your ignition circuit.
The first thing I would do in that case is to jump power to both of those fuses. If the car starts and runs longer than a few seconds, then I would bet you have an open ignition circuit.
I have 12V on both sides of both fuses.
03-16-2010, 10:02 AM
#60
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Re: problem getting started
My ECM is connected... I slide the probe down by the wire... if I disconnect it how would I get an accurate reading?
03-16-2010, 10:19 AM
#61
Re: problem getting started
With the key ON(RUN position), and the ECM unplugged, you will have ~12V at pins D15 and D16 if all is working as it should. No current is flowing, so you should see full potential using a volt meter.
As I said earlier, the test lamp may show nothing, because it needs current flow in order to work. A meter only needs potential (voltage) to give a reading. Again, with the voltmeter connected to a good ground, the connector off the ECM, and the positive probe of the voltmeter touching either pin D15 or D16, you should see ~12V. If you do, then your ECM may not be providing you with a ground to open the injectors. That takes us back to square one.
Take that reading, and then post results. Base on what you have posted thus far, I am hoping that you will tell me that you have 0V at those pins.
As I said earlier, the test lamp may show nothing, because it needs current flow in order to work. A meter only needs potential (voltage) to give a reading. Again, with the voltmeter connected to a good ground, the connector off the ECM, and the positive probe of the voltmeter touching either pin D15 or D16, you should see ~12V. If you do, then your ECM may not be providing you with a ground to open the injectors. That takes us back to square one.
Take that reading, and then post results. Base on what you have posted thus far, I am hoping that you will tell me that you have 0V at those pins.
03-16-2010, 10:32 AM
#62
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Re: problem getting started
With the key ON(RUN position), and the ECM unplugged, you will have ~12V at pins D15 and D16 if all is working as it should. No current is flowing, so you should see full potential using a volt meter.
As I said earlier, the test lamp may show nothing, because it needs current flow in order to work. A meter only needs potential (voltage) to give a reading. Again, with the voltmeter connected to a good ground, the connector off the ECM, and the positive probe of the voltmeter touching either pin D15 or D16, you should see ~12V. If you do, then your ECM may not be providing you with a ground to open the injectors. That takes us back to square one.
Take that reading, and then post results. Base on what you have posted thus far, I am hoping that you will tell me that you have 0V at those pins.
As I said earlier, the test lamp may show nothing, because it needs current flow in order to work. A meter only needs potential (voltage) to give a reading. Again, with the voltmeter connected to a good ground, the connector off the ECM, and the positive probe of the voltmeter touching either pin D15 or D16, you should see ~12V. If you do, then your ECM may not be providing you with a ground to open the injectors. That takes us back to square one.
Take that reading, and then post results. Base on what you have posted thus far, I am hoping that you will tell me that you have 0V at those pins.
0V on both D15 and D16 I checked that I did get a reading of another pin c16 and did 12.3volts
Where does the ECM ground and or the Fuel Injectors?
03-16-2010, 10:43 AM
#63
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Re: problem getting started
http://www.chevythunder.com/
this site has a few things you might be interested in... the ECM pinouts, TPI vacumn line layouts, etc...
this site has a few things you might be interested in... the ECM pinouts, TPI vacumn line layouts, etc...
03-16-2010, 10:49 AM
#64
Re: problem getting started
C16 is battery voltage at all times, and is connected to the power feed for your fuel pump, among other things.
That is actually good news. It means that your problem is in the wiring between the fuse panel and the injectors, specifically in a pink wire with black stripe.
Before you go crazy checking for broken wires, I recommend that you make sure that all harness connections are clean and tight. You may have simply overlooked a harness connection somewhere. Do a visual check starting from the injector harness, and work your way backwards.
One thing I would definitely check is where the new wiring harness was connected to the existing vehicle wiring. With the key in the RUN position, you should have 12V all along this wire, from the fuse panel to the injectors.
Keep probing at various points until you find two points, between which there will be an open or bad connection. In other words, work your way downstream until you lose your 12V signal. Fix the break, and your engine should start.
That is actually good news. It means that your problem is in the wiring between the fuse panel and the injectors, specifically in a pink wire with black stripe.
Before you go crazy checking for broken wires, I recommend that you make sure that all harness connections are clean and tight. You may have simply overlooked a harness connection somewhere. Do a visual check starting from the injector harness, and work your way backwards.
One thing I would definitely check is where the new wiring harness was connected to the existing vehicle wiring. With the key in the RUN position, you should have 12V all along this wire, from the fuse panel to the injectors.
Keep probing at various points until you find two points, between which there will be an open or bad connection. In other words, work your way downstream until you lose your 12V signal. Fix the break, and your engine should start.
03-16-2010, 10:52 AM
#65
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Re: problem getting started
C16 is battery voltage at all times, and is connected to the power feed for your fuel pump, among other things.
That is actually good news. It means that your problem is in the wiring between the fuse panel and the injectors, specifically in a pink wire with black stripe.
Before you go crazy checking for broken wires, I recommend that you make sure that all harness connections are clean and tight. You may have simply overlooked a harness connection somewhere. Do a visual check starting from the injector harness, and work your way backwards.
One thing I would definitely check is where the new wiring harness was connected to the existing vehicle wiring. With the key in the RUN position, you should have 12V all along this wire, from the fuse panel to the injectors.
Keep probing at various points until you find two points, between which there will be an open or bad connection. In other words, work your way downstream until you lose your 12V signal. Fix the break, and your engine should start.
That is actually good news. It means that your problem is in the wiring between the fuse panel and the injectors, specifically in a pink wire with black stripe.
Before you go crazy checking for broken wires, I recommend that you make sure that all harness connections are clean and tight. You may have simply overlooked a harness connection somewhere. Do a visual check starting from the injector harness, and work your way backwards.
One thing I would definitely check is where the new wiring harness was connected to the existing vehicle wiring. With the key in the RUN position, you should have 12V all along this wire, from the fuse panel to the injectors.
Keep probing at various points until you find two points, between which there will be an open or bad connection. In other words, work your way downstream until you lose your 12V signal. Fix the break, and your engine should start.
btw with the link above I found that b6 is for VATS... I don't have a wire there so it's impossible for VATS to come into play... right?
03-16-2010, 11:08 AM
#66
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Re: problem getting started
C16 is battery voltage at all times, and is connected to the power feed for your fuel pump, among other things.
That is actually good news. It means that your problem is in the wiring between the fuse panel and the injectors, specifically in a pink wire with black stripe.
Before you go crazy checking for broken wires, I recommend that you make sure that all harness connections are clean and tight. You may have simply overlooked a harness connection somewhere. Do a visual check starting from the injector harness, and work your way backwards.
One thing I would definitely check is where the new wiring harness was connected to the existing vehicle wiring. With the key in the RUN position, you should have 12V all along this wire, from the fuse panel to the injectors.
Keep probing at various points until you find two points, between which there will be an open or bad connection. In other words, work your way downstream until you lose your 12V signal. Fix the break, and your engine should start.
That is actually good news. It means that your problem is in the wiring between the fuse panel and the injectors, specifically in a pink wire with black stripe.
Before you go crazy checking for broken wires, I recommend that you make sure that all harness connections are clean and tight. You may have simply overlooked a harness connection somewhere. Do a visual check starting from the injector harness, and work your way backwards.
One thing I would definitely check is where the new wiring harness was connected to the existing vehicle wiring. With the key in the RUN position, you should have 12V all along this wire, from the fuse panel to the injectors.
Keep probing at various points until you find two points, between which there will be an open or bad connection. In other words, work your way downstream until you lose your 12V signal. Fix the break, and your engine should start.
the chunk of wires that I fed through the fender into where the ECM is there is one connector that I have nothing to plug it into.
it has 3 wires in it... I'll go take a picture of it.
the two things not working are
injectors pink black
fuel pump tan/white
the three wires on this connector are two pink/black and 1 tan/white...
I've looked and look for where it plugs in but can't find it...
picture in a minute...
03-16-2010, 11:10 AM
#67
Re: problem getting started
OK first, you are very close to solving your problem. This type of troubleshooting works by eliminating all possible problems until you have just one left. You are almost there.
Second, here's how VATS works:
The ignition key has a resistor embedded in it. When you insert the key in the lock, there are two little wires that connect with leaf contacts to either 'end' of the resistance. This bridges an open circuit in the VATS module with the key resistance value, of which there are 15 possible.
If the correct resistance is read, within a certain range of tolerance, the module enables the starter cranking circuit. It also sends a 5V square wave signal at either 30 or 40Hz to that pin on the ECM. The ECM reads the signal, and if it is correct, it turns off the SECURITY light and enables the fuel injector circuit.
So, if your ECM is not looking for a VATS signal, it won't care if there isn't one.
Second, here's how VATS works:
The ignition key has a resistor embedded in it. When you insert the key in the lock, there are two little wires that connect with leaf contacts to either 'end' of the resistance. This bridges an open circuit in the VATS module with the key resistance value, of which there are 15 possible.
If the correct resistance is read, within a certain range of tolerance, the module enables the starter cranking circuit. It also sends a 5V square wave signal at either 30 or 40Hz to that pin on the ECM. The ECM reads the signal, and if it is correct, it turns off the SECURITY light and enables the fuel injector circuit.
So, if your ECM is not looking for a VATS signal, it won't care if there isn't one.
03-16-2010, 11:15 AM
#68
Re: problem getting started
okay I think I already know whats wrong...
the chunk of wires that I fed through the fender into where the ECM is there is one connector that I have nothing to plug it into.
it has 3 wires in it... I'll go take a picture of it.
the two things not working are
injectors pink black
fuel pump tan/white
the three wires on this connector are two pink/black and 1 tan/white...
I've looked and look for where it plugs in but can't find it...
picture in a minute...
the chunk of wires that I fed through the fender into where the ECM is there is one connector that I have nothing to plug it into.
it has 3 wires in it... I'll go take a picture of it.
the two things not working are
injectors pink black
fuel pump tan/white
the three wires on this connector are two pink/black and 1 tan/white...
I've looked and look for where it plugs in but can't find it...
picture in a minute...
You need to find the corresponding connector on the car's harness... is it possible that this one connector should not have passed through the firewall? Or is that the only way it can go? I am wondering if it needs to connect in the engine compartment.
Last edited by ternandes; 03-16-2010 at 11:20 AM.
03-16-2010, 11:16 AM
#69
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Re: problem getting started
okay I think I already know whats wrong...
the chunk of wires that I fed through the fender into where the ECM is there is one connector that I have nothing to plug it into.
it has 3 wires in it... I'll go take a picture of it.
the two things not working are
injectors pink black
fuel pump tan/white
the three wires on this connector are two pink/black and 1 tan/white...
I've looked and look for where it plugs in but can't find it...
picture in a minute...
the chunk of wires that I fed through the fender into where the ECM is there is one connector that I have nothing to plug it into.
it has 3 wires in it... I'll go take a picture of it.
the two things not working are
injectors pink black
fuel pump tan/white
the three wires on this connector are two pink/black and 1 tan/white...
I've looked and look for where it plugs in but can't find it...
picture in a minute...
here are some pictures of this connector... you know its been bugging me that I didn't have a place to plug it into..
03-16-2010, 11:18 AM
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Re: problem getting started
Congratulations, grasshopper... you have found your problem. There will be two of the pink/black wires (one for each bank of injectors) and one tan/white wire to the fuel pump.
You need to find the corresponding connector on the car's harness... and I am thinking that it might be in the engine compartment somewhere along the firewall.
You need to find the corresponding connector on the car's harness... and I am thinking that it might be in the engine compartment somewhere along the firewall.
the wire from the harness is too short (I think) for it to be in the engine compartment...however I've never really looked in the engine compartment.
03-16-2010, 11:22 AM
#71
Re: problem getting started
Well, it looks a lot like it belongs under the dash... you need to get under there and hunt down its mate. Connect 'er up, and I think your car will roar to life.
I have never had this part of any of my cars apart; therefore I really don't know where it is, so be thorough in your search.
I have never had this part of any of my cars apart; therefore I really don't know where it is, so be thorough in your search.
03-16-2010, 11:29 AM
#72
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Re: problem getting started
Well, it looks a lot like it belongs under the dash... you need to get under there and hunt down its mate. Connect 'er up, and I think your car will roar to life.
I have never had this part of any of my cars apart; therefore I really don't know where it is, so be thorough in your search.
I have never had this part of any of my cars apart; therefore I really don't know where it is, so be thorough in your search.
03-16-2010, 11:31 AM
#73
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Re: problem getting started
I've got an 85 trans, and 86 trans and an 86 Z28 will explore those for this rascal...
03-16-2010, 11:45 AM
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Re: problem getting started
I'm going to jumper the tan/white one to see if that gets my fuel pump to run normal.
03-16-2010, 11:52 AM
#77
Re: problem getting started
Whoa, I just thought of something: Putting 12V to the tan/white will probably not help. Put a test light on that wire and turn the key to RUN. I am guessing that you'll get about 3 seconds of power. That means that you need to put power to the missing connector to get your pump running.
03-16-2010, 11:53 AM
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03-16-2010, 11:56 AM
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Re: problem getting started
Whoa, I just thought of something: Putting 12V to the tan/white will probably not help. Put a test light on that wire and turn the key to RUN. I am guessing that you'll get about 3 seconds of power. That means that you need to put power to the missing connector to get your pump running.
03-16-2010, 12:13 PM
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Re: problem getting started
Last week I attempted tracing the tan/white from the back to the front and lost it in a huge bunch of wires head toward the ECM from the fuse block... somehow there is a way to get back there... I'll figure it out.
Hey can't thank you enough for hanging in here with a TPI novice!!!!
03-16-2010, 12:17 PM
#86
Re: problem getting started
Did you find the plug, or just jumper power to the wires?
Oops, never mind, I just saw that you said you would eventually find the plug.
Oops, never mind, I just saw that you said you would eventually find the plug.
Last edited by ternandes; 03-16-2010 at 12:23 PM. Reason: Didn't read previous post carefully
03-16-2010, 12:43 PM
#87
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Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: problem getting started
if I don't find that plug I will just have to hard wire it from the fuses...
03-16-2010, 01:02 PM
#88
Re: problem getting started
Yes, you have to unplug the EST (Electronic Spark Timing) connector. It is a tan wire with a black stripe. The connector is near the heater box... otherwise the ECM will compensate as you adjust.
You can run new wires to the pink/black wires from the fuse panel, or at a convenient point coming out of it... and then you'll need to run another wire from the fuel pump connector (or a convenient place on that wire) to the tan/white wire on your orphan connector.
03-16-2010, 05:46 PM
#90
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Car: 54 Chevy Sedan Delivery
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Re: problem getting started
congrats on your achievement was wondering if that might of been the problem when I wanted you to test injectors.
03-17-2010, 07:27 AM
#91
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Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: problem getting started
Yes, you have to unplug the EST (Electronic Spark Timing) connector. It is a tan wire with a black stripe. The connector is near the heater box... otherwise the ECM will compensate as you adjust.
You can run new wires to the pink/black wires from the fuse panel, or at a convenient point coming out of it... and then you'll need to run another wire from the fuel pump connector (or a convenient place on that wire) to the tan/white wire on your orphan connector.
You can run new wires to the pink/black wires from the fuse panel, or at a convenient point coming out of it... and then you'll need to run another wire from the fuel pump connector (or a convenient place on that wire) to the tan/white wire on your orphan connector.
03-21-2010, 12:55 PM
#95
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Car: '78 GMC Sierra Heavy 1/2
Engine: GMPP ZZ4 Q-Jet
Transmission: 700R4 Stage 2 w/Race Internals
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3:42 Eaton
Re: problem getting started
none of my other three cars have that connector on the wiring harness. I measured the wire on the connector... it has to be inside the car itself... but there isn't anyplace to hook it to... must have been a 1987 only thing...
I'm going to jumper the tan/white one to see if that gets my fuel pump to run normal.
I'm going to jumper the tan/white one to see if that gets my fuel pump to run normal.
03-21-2010, 01:58 PM
#96
Re: problem getting started
I doubt that. The fuel gauge problem is more likely because he has deposits built up on the 'wiper' inside the sending unit. If the fuel pump problem was also causing the gauge problem, the gauge would probably read normally when he jumps power to the pump.
03-21-2010, 02:02 PM
#97
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Car: '78 GMC Sierra Heavy 1/2
Engine: GMPP ZZ4 Q-Jet
Transmission: 700R4 Stage 2 w/Race Internals
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 3:42 Eaton
Re: problem getting started
He stated in his original post that his gauge sits way past full always
That tells me it's not grounded, you see where I was going with the thought
That tells me it's not grounded, you see where I was going with the thought
03-21-2010, 02:10 PM
#98
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Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: problem getting started
actually I'm holding ff on doing anything to the sending unit until I get the wiring straight... cause I kinda think that it might fix the guage.
I'll have my service manual tomorrow for the GTA.... just need the pinouts for an 87 IROC to see if there are any differances, have compared everything else and so far nothing too much different mostly wire color changes... did drive it the other day... not too impressed with the 700r4 but the engine sounds sweet.
still running extremely rough... doesn't seem to charge, cooling fans don't come on... I have lots more to work on.
I'll have my service manual tomorrow for the GTA.... just need the pinouts for an 87 IROC to see if there are any differances, have compared everything else and so far nothing too much different mostly wire color changes... did drive it the other day... not too impressed with the 700r4 but the engine sounds sweet.
still running extremely rough... doesn't seem to charge, cooling fans don't come on... I have lots more to work on.
03-21-2010, 02:27 PM
#99
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Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: problem getting started
just found the pinouts for c207 on austinthirdgen!!! yeah!
03-21-2010, 09:12 PM
#100
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Car: 54 Chevy Sedan Delivery
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi
Re: problem getting started
could be that PO cut the connector off if he took out engine and wiring before you bought it .