1988TransAm22s

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys im coming to you again...You all have helped me alot and im coming to you again... Here were it started... Spent all day sunday working on car upgrading the msd coil, cold air intake, volt checked the tps. cleaned the maf and installed a new optima yellow top battery... and installed a new alternator and bracket....started the car and it ran better then it ever has... I then shut it off and finished cleaing everything up around the shed and when i got back into the car it started right up but wouldnt rev regaurdless of what i did,, then i discontected the maf and the engine stalled.. i then reconnected the maf and started the car and it ran good for about 30 minutes with tons of power.... I then shut it off again and started working on changing my rear lower control arms and relized i 4got to charge the impact so i went to put the car back in the shed and Same problem as be4...almost seems like its not getting enough fuel but if you disconnect the maf it runs great but doesnt idle at all....Just to help you guys more it has a full eldlebrok intake and bbk throttle body, street fighter msd coil and distributer. msd 8.0 wires, bbk full underdrive pulley kit, eldlebrok headers, flowmaster exhaust, and im sure im forgetting alot but let me know what you guys think. today i was running it and it wont idle and it wont rev over 5k without spuddering like crazy and the most crazy thing is if the check engine light turns on it runs better and idles but if it goes off it runs like crap again...let me know wut i need to do please.
Thanx again Guys hope to get it running great again soon
John

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like the MAF got screwed when you cleaned it.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Based on the info given, I would have to agree.

1988TransAm22s

iTrader: (1)

What would be my best bet.. Should i buy a new one from the parts store or try getting one from the junk yard.... It appears to be Fairly new and still looks good.... The crazy thing is I cant get the check engine light to come on to pull a code to see if thats my problem... I know last year b4 i put it away i ran a test and it came back a MAF bad... Well ill see if i can get a new maf. Let you guys know soon

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Especially after that last bit of info, I'd replace the MAF. My personal experience with used has been pretty good. I don't think they have a high failure rate. I've seen them go pretty cheaply, so as long as the price is reasonable, I'd go with used.

1988TransAm22s

iTrader: (1)

well i orderd a new maf and it should be in on thursday... Brand New $150 for a cordone brand... I checked the junk yard and they wanted $100 used no warrenty...The new one comes with a one year no questions asked return policy... I tried running ti again to take it to the shop and it will only run good above 2500 to 4000 rpms and then it still dont have any power... Ill keep you guys informed if this fixes the problem as soon as i get off work on thursday...
Thanx John

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Man, I got a diagram so that you can test out the MAF sensor. Ohh well, too late. I also had a similar problem, Troublecode 33, MAF sensor. I fixed for free!!!!!. I just cleaned off the corrosion inside the wiring harness and inside the MAF sensor (5 pins). Works like a beauty.

Your car ran horrible without the SES light on because it was running under bad load or faulty info that the sensor was sending to the ECM. Now once your SES light turns on, then the ECM switches over to it's default settings that was programmed at the manufacture, basically default mode.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

If anyone believes that theyre MAF sensor is going bad, then follow this link to my thread on troubleshooting the MAF sensor. Enjoy.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...uble-code.html

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Nice, IROC... that could come in handy some day.

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Thanks. She's a bit banged up from the P.O.. She has 2 layers of red and 2 layers of black, and my red hood,,,,very classic. That blows man. Ima have to pay a grip of money jsut to get it stripped when I get it repainted. But she gets me from point A to point B.

1988TransAm22s

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys thanx once again....Got my new MAF to day and just installed it and wow... Crazy the way it runs now Almost Perfect... Just have to set the timming now and It should be perfect....cant believe the difference that stupid sensor made.... No more check engine lite... just have to clear the codes but when i put it on my tester it says that I have to contact a dealer to have to codes erased.... How can i get past that... Please help once again...Thanx Thanx Thanx again
John


Ps i am saving that link for future reference Thanks bud

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

The code is stored in the ECM. The ECM memory is "volatile." Volatile, in the electronic chips world means that once power or electricity has been removed, all info gets erased. This is true in the "CMOS" chip which needs constant power to hold memory. An example of memory that doesnt erase is the PROM chip itself. PROM means "PROGRAMMABLE READ ONLY MEMORY." In other words, your can reprogram the memory, but only through a computer device. So just disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and there you go. A clear memory.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Yep, if you disconnect the battery, the ECM will re-set.

I am not at all surprised at how much the MAF sensor affects performance. That's pretty much its job. It measures the flow of intake air, and the ECM uses the data to adjust fuel delivery accordingly.

1988TransAm22s

iTrader: (1)

K guys im at work right now but when i get how im going to fine tune the car.... I think the timing is off a little... Where should the timing be set at... I know i have to disconnect the brown/black wire b4 i time it. but every where i look for timing everyone says different... Once again Guys thanx
John

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Right. Disconnect the EST wire (on mine its above the blower motor), then get your timing light. start Camaro. turn the dizzy either way until the timing is at 6*. Once acheived, tun off the Camaro, disconnect the battery (because you'll set a code 42), tighten the dizzy hold down bolt, reconnect the EST wire. % minutes later, reconnect the battery and ther you go. With the EST wire reconnected, the ECM will take over the advance timing/retard accordingly.

87IROC-DAN61

Hello 1988TransAm22s!!

To erase the codes, try this.....There is a fuse holder next to the battery, it contains a Yellow 20 amp blade type fuse!! Remove this fuse, it will cut the battery power to the ECM, replace fuse after 30 seconds, all codes will be gone!!!

Removing the battery negative cable does the same, but with more effort required!!

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Isn't that blade fuse the same one that powers the 3 famous relays (MAF Power, MAF Burn off, and the fuel pump)?

87IROC-DAN61

Hello Chevy86 IROC-Z!!

As far as the service manual says for the LB9, it's just the ECM power fuse!!! Obviously cutting power, here will clear the codes, just like taking off the negative battery cable, but it's easier to do it this way, as opposed to removing the battery cable!!!

KNBlazer

Sounds like she's been around the block a few times in TJ...

1988TransAm22s

iTrader: (1)

sorry guys didnt get a chance to time the TA... wife wanted fish friday... going to wrench on it saturday... hope to get all the stuff i need to put on....All i am waiting for is the umi wonder bar and HID conversion for the headlights... Hope to have NEW pictures as soon as It warms up a little more outside... Once again guys THANX wouldnt be where i am without all of you.
Thanx John

Chevy86 IROC-Z

iTrader: (17)

Nope. Not TJ. Im on the otherside of So. Cal.. 120 miles more to the East. Im 15 minutes North of Mexicali, Baja California (Mexico). Besides, how does "been around the block a few times in TJ" correlate to the 4 layers of paint?