roguecoxnet

Okay experts im loosin my mind! I have a newly rebuilt 350 TPI heres the specs...

5.7 TPI MAF
9.72:1 Forged pistons
2.02/1.60 Heads
24 lb injectors
Adjustable fuel regulator
zz4 camshaft
Double timing chain set (set to TDC 0 degress)
All NEW sensors (TPS (set to .55), IAC, Temps, Knock, o2.)

Now the problem: engine won't run! It has spark, fuel injectors are firing, I have 45 psi fuel pressure. All injectors have between 14 and 14.5 ohms. I've swapped computers, ignition modules, and distibuter. I checked the fuel injectors by pulling up the fuel rail and turning over the engine. Spark on all cylinders before I tore it apart. This engine ran ok when I first fired it up but for some reason just went down hill in a few days. Its never been driven just got it finished up. Now it won't run at all. Also there seems to be a decent amount of air coming out of the valve cover vent.

86T/A_Ram_Air

might be timing....thats where i would start

jamon8

iTrader: (3)

who burnt your prom

roguecoxnet

I burned my own, but for now I put a new 305 TPI computer in there with a fast chip just to test. I don't think thats the problem. The weird thing is just for the fun of it I pulled the #1 spark plug and turned the engine over. Everytime it shot air out of the hole it fired the spark. doesn't make since to me. went to oreillyauto parts and they couldn't test the ESC module, they could only test the one in the distibuter. I swapped distibuters so I know thats not the problem. Spark and Fuel are there but theres no fire what so ever. Its a rebuild engine with 0 miles should there be blowby? theres enough where it comes out of the valve cover vent pretty rapidly. I lined all the rings up right(gap opposite of eachother). I don't understand why there som much air coming out of the valve cover vent.

TKOPerformance

How tight did you adjust the valves? If it's hydraulic lifters and they are way too tight the engine won't start. I adjust them by moving the pushrod up and down and tightening the rocker nut until the slack is gone, then another 1/2 turn.

I will second a vote for timing too. Are you sure that the #1 cylinder is at TDC compression stroke when the spark plug fires? Timing pointers in different positions can play absolute havoc with this. If there's doubt use a piston stop, mark the balancer when it hits the stop in each direction, the center point between the two marks in TDC. I shouldn't have to say anything as simple as make sure the piston is on the compression stroke, but I guess I just did anyway...

If you have two injectors that are on sequential cylinders in the firing order that are not firing the engine will also not run. Check the timing and the valves, if that doesn't fix it, spray a little ether into the crankcase vent fitting in the throttle body and try it then. If it runs for a few seconds off the ether you know the problem is fuel related.

roguecoxnet

Went out today pulled all the sparkplugs cleaned them off, put them in and when I turned it over it tried to start then died. Pulled a plug and it was wet. The injectors fire about 1-2 times a second, i think its flooding my engine instantly upon start-up. what would make the injectors fire so fast or is that normal? it batch fires so i wouldn't think it needed to fire that fast. spark is white and gap is 38.

TKOPerformance

First, pull all the plugs and check to see if they are wet like the one you pulled. This will tell you if it's a single injector or all the injectors that are causing this problem. If it's a single injector, or two or three then the bad injectors are leaking and flooding those cylinders. If it's all the injectors then something's wrong with the program in the PROM or the fuel pressure is way too high.

However, I still say timing could be a factor. If the plugs are not firing when the cylinder is full of fuel you could get a condition like this. Did you reuse your stock timing cover/pointer and balancer or did you get new aftermarket stuff? If it's all stock you should be fine, as long as you dropped the distributor in at or near TDC on the compression stroke for number 1. If it's a couple of aftermarket pieces I would do the piston stop exercise to verify TDC. You'd be suprised what 35 degrees off TDC will do, and I've seen it first hand. You don't get backfires like a distributor that is 180 degrees off, but the engine won't run either. Remember with computer controls the ECM dials in the base timing, so if you're 30 degrees off at the balancer you could be 50 degres off in total. It might take an hour to check everything, but it will eliminate timing as the culprit.

As for the injectors firing 1 to 2 times a second I'd say that's normal. If you figure that at a 600RPM idle the engine is running at 10 revolutions per second. The bottom half of the engine spins twice for every top end revolution, so that means 5 valvetrain cycles and 5 sets of induction strokes. Then cut that number in half for batch firing and you get 2.5 injector firings per second. Right in line with what you're seeing.

Once you get all of this figured out and the engine runs, don't forget to change the oil right away. If the cylinders are filling with fuel it is getting into the oil, plus washing down the cylinder walls. Gas is a solvent, and doesn't make a good lubricant. You could do real damage to the bearings and rings otherwise.

turners1362

Done a compression test yet? What readings do you get for each cylinder?