Kersteae

Assuming I dont want to delve into the world of prom burning which would you recommend. TPiS is charging 575 bucks for their prom, whereas Ed is charging 350. Both are expensive, but one is way out there. What do you think? Thanks.

JR4444

Most everybody here say the TPIS chip is CRAP. They say it wasen't worth the $$$ by a long shot, on the other hand I've only heard good things about Ed's chips.

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88 Formula 350 WS6
Upper and Lower SuperRam, 1000 CFM Accel Throttle Body, ZZ4 cam, 24# Motorsport Injectors, Larger Gutted Mass Sensor, Homemade Cold Air induction, PROM by performance resources, MSD 6a box, MSD Distributor, Accel SuperCoil, Taylor 8mm wires, TB Bypass, B&M shift Kit, 160* Thermostat, Flowmaster Muffler

Headers in the mail soon to be installed

TRAXION

Let me give you facts without expressing my opinion. I had a TPIS level V chip. It now sits in a pile of junk on my desk. The TPIS chip did not have the fueling changes necessary for my stated mods (as was sent to them in a very nice typed letter - with emphasis on cam specs, etc). In fact, the TPIS chip had a STOCK fuel curve at all MAP values where the car could run. The Power Enrichment fuel was STOCK. The spark curve wasn't even close to optimal.

Compared to my TPIS chip, Ed will make more fuel adjustments for less cost. My car NEEDED many more fuel adjustments than what the TPIS chip had (basically nothing in the areas where my car spent its time). The car ran DOG RICH at idle (BLMs = 108!) because there were no fueling changes in that region. The car ran somewhat lean in the upper RPMs because of the STOCK fuel curve in that area .... even though I CLEARLY specified components that totally changed the torque curve (VE curve) of the engine.

I attempted to call them once and was rewarded by an arrogant 'chip programmer'. In retrospect it is hilarious given how much I know now.

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

[This message has been edited by TRAXION (edited December 11, 2001).]

Kersteae

Looks like it'll be Ed who gets my money then. Thanks guys.

MikeH

iTrader: (10)

Kersteae...If you can..try and find someone in your area that can do the tuning on a dyno. It wont be perfect but better then someones best guess even if the combos are similar.



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90 IROC
SuperRamed 406
Trickflow 23* heads

88TPI406GTA

Another good thing about Fastchips is that even though you pay $350 for a chip up front, they will work with you initially to fix any codes that may come up.

Also, you have an upgrade option for $150 each time after that. Since I won't have time for a while to learn how to burn my own chips, it makes a lot of sense for me to go this route for now.

I bought a chip from them when I swapped in my 406 under the TPI setup and the car runs great with no codes (had them disable emissions too) and their service was great.

I think TPIS is overpriced for damn near everything they do, even is they are personable....

-Adam
88 GTA with 406 TPI
-Winter mods, ported L98 alum heads and a SR

[This message has been edited by 88TPI406GTA (edited December 12, 2001).]

Grim Reaper

This is a funny question because this (getting a Miniram) was the very reason I got into eprom burning.

About a year ago, I negotiated a deal with a person to acquire their Miniram. The person selling it was going to be making modifications so the actual sale only took place in the last week. But I was in no hurry and neither was he; we both waited for the right timing for each of us.

But in anticipation of getting a Miniram, I decided to learn how to burn eproms and figured the best place to start was when my engine was still basically stock.

I would say that within one month of actually starting to play with the eprom I knew enough that I could re-program an eprom for a Miniram. That would have required lots of data captures and slowly "tuning" the VE Tables.

Today, I have already "drafted" my BIN without even having the Miniram on the car using a method I am still "testing". If it all works and gives reasonably good results for a "draft" BIN, I will probably do a post on how to "draft" a BIN from "specifications only" and a stock GM BIN.

The trick to "eprom burning" IMO, is to begin it when your car is still fairly stock. Then you aren't caught in the situation where you NEED an eprom just to get the car to run right, let alone perform "optimally".

Of ALL the custom eprom writers that I have reviewed their BINs, Ed Wright is definitely one of the better ones. He ACTUALLY makes changes to try and improve WOT and part-throttle performance.

But, just be aware that because Ed Wright DOES NOT have "hands-on" access to your car, that the eprom will not be optimal. It will be good, but not optimal. The difference between a "good" eprom and an "optimal" eprom can be significant when it comes to performance. Easily .3 seconds on a stock L98 probably more on a modified engine.

The best thing about burning your eproms, is you NEVER have to pay any more money to burn another eprom and you can tune it "tight". That is what separates a "good" eprom from an "optimal" eprom.

I won't get into a discussion about "off-the-shelf" eproms as they do virtually nothing.

442guy

i was wondering (if anyone cares..) whats that other company beside tpis that sells the chip for the miniram you were talking about? i could use a link,

thanks

Kersteae

www.fastchip.com

Damon

I'm going to put in a plug for TPIS here. We have one of their chips in my brother's Minirammed 409 GTA (1987). The WOT fuel curve was dead-on from the minute we installed the first chip. It ran between 12.5 and 12.6 A/F from the lowest recorded RPM to our self-imposed redline (6200). THis was verified by the dyno operator.

How did they nail it so precisely? It's a MAF system. It does use one of their high flow MAF sensors and I'm guessing they know their own sensor's flow characteristics pretty well. At roughly the 400HP level, the sensor is not maxed out either, so we can still play with it some more.

Speed-density systems are much more finicky. If I was running a S/D system I'd definitely do a dyno-tune session before I ever went racing. If only to keep from damaging the motor!

I know everyone thinks MAF systems are junk around here but they sure do make getting the combo tuned a LOT easier. And that can be worth it for the average guy turning wrenches in his garage who doesn't know or want to know about burning their own chips.

Grim Reaper

Have you hooked up a scan tool to your car and monitored your MAF when running your engine past 5,000 rpm? If not, I think you should - you may be in for a surprise.

My buddy's 383 maxes his MAF (hit's 255 gm/sec airflow) at just over 5,000 rpm. I would expect with your engine and HP level that you'd be maxing the MAF somewhere around the same level, if not lower.