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How do these mods sound?

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Old 11-14-2001 | 03:17 AM
  #1  
SillyWabbit's Avatar
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
How do these mods sound?

I was planning on maybe getting one of those 600cfm K&N's off the TB, as well as a Holley TB airfoil as my next mods. All in all should be around $100. I just can't seem to think of a way I can fabricate any cold air induction on a firebird. And I sure as hell don't want to pay $260 to $310 for the SLP CAI kit, when even more time and money have to be spent on relocating the battery and/or carbon canister. My only other idea would be to swap the Camaro air box and that whole front piece onto the Firebird, and then do a Camaro style homemade ram air/CAI setup, but I thought there were issues with hood clearances, unless you had the ASCD ram air II hood. Any ideas?

------------------
1991 Formula 350
3" Flowmaster A/T cat-back
Old 11-14-2001 | 08:13 AM
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Try these. They are in the technical articles on this site.

http://exit3.i-55.com/~davidlt/air_intake.htm

http://87tagta.tripod.com/coldair.htm
Old 11-14-2001 | 01:28 PM
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Those are good ideas, but I don't see how they are any more beneficial than the stock setup. That's where the stock filter location is, and if you buy a K&N and take the lower portion of the filter canister out so that you essentially have an open filter, that's what you get. And although the filter is near the fenderwell, it's still pulling hot air in from the engine. It's not scavenging cold air from outside the engine bay like a true CAI setup would. Maybe I'll just take a weekend and take the airbox off my Camaro and see if it'll fit the Firebird.
Old 11-14-2001 | 03:36 PM
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go to the tech section and do Ron Mullins cold air setup.. i did it and all i had to do was twist the air box(no drilling another hole) and run some rubber dryer tube down the fender wall.. i drilled a round hole in my air dam and shoved the tube that way (i didnt buy a scoop), facing the front of the car.. so it sucks up cold air...
took me like a half an hour to do.. most of the time was cutting a hole in the air dam. simple and it picks up cold air, not like those guys fake cold air set ups.. all they have is an open filter near the fender, wheres the cold air?

ps the camaro intake setup wont fit under the firebird hood.

[This message has been edited by ron rizzotti (edited November 14, 2001).]
Old 11-14-2001 | 05:33 PM
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ron rizzotti:
go to the tech section and do Ron Mullins cold air setup.. i did it and all i had to do was twist the air box(no drilling another hole) and run some rubber dryer tube down the fender wall.. i drilled a round hole in my air dam and shoved the tube that way (i didnt buy a scoop), facing the front of the car.. so it sucks up cold air...
took me like a half an hour to do.. most of the time was cutting a hole in the air dam. simple and it picks up cold air, not like those guys fake cold air set ups.. all they have is an open filter near the fender, wheres the cold air?

ps the camaro intake setup wont fit under the firebird hood.

[This message has been edited by ron rizzotti (edited November 14, 2001).]
</font>
That's what I thought with the Camaro intake.
Yeah, I was wondering where the cold air was as well. But I'll take a look at your idea. Maybe I can get the March cold air kit for the mustang in pieces. Ohhhh wait, my friend with a 5.0 stang bought one of those kits and didn't use the scoop, maybe I can buy it from him so I don't have to get the kit.
Old 11-14-2001 | 10:35 PM
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I'm using the stock rubber piece that connects to the throttle body and having a muffler shop bend a piece of 3" pipe to go to where the stock setup went. I'm using the KNN-RC-5000 filter. I would have gotten the conical filter with the circular opening in the bottom, but I was told that the RC-5000 would clamp right onto my TB (I love that look, even if it is hot air). Oh it does. And the hood is right on top of it so that I eliminate half of the filter. Maybe on a camaro it would work; I don't know.

Oh yeah, I would send it back to summit and get the right filter, but I first ordered the RC-5050 because they they said it would fit. Having exchanged one, I don't want to return another.

This setup may be about the same as stock with the air box cut off, but it'll look cool. I'll just paint the pipe a nice black.

------------------
91 formula WS6 305 tpi, T-5, 20,xxx actual miles, Cyclone headers, true dual exhaust, Moroso Blue Max wires
Old 11-15-2001 | 11:17 AM
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I would save your money and do the open filter at the end of the stock intake piping (that intake piping isn't a real restriction anyways) and get an AFPR.

As for the airfoil, save the 50$ and look for a used 52mm throttle body on ebay. you can usually get one for about $250, and will get you much more than the airfoil. A lot being sold used even have the airfoil .

But keep in mind, on a stock car, you biggest restriction is the headers. I would look into doing that first, then addressing intake issues.

Old 11-15-2001 | 11:18 AM
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Besides, your stock throttle body already outflows that 600 cfm K&N
Old 11-15-2001 | 02:22 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 1991WS6:
I would save your money and do the open filter at the end of the stock intake piping (that intake piping isn't a real restriction anyways) and get an AFPR.

As for the airfoil, save the 50$ and look for a used 52mm throttle body on ebay. you can usually get one for about $250, and will get you much more than the airfoil. A lot being sold used even have the airfoil .

But keep in mind, on a stock car, you biggest restriction is the headers. I would look into doing that first, then addressing intake issues.

</font>
we just spoke about how the filter at the end of the tubing isnt getting cold air..

if you do get an afpr make your own, if you dont make your own DONT get the one by TPIS, i think Holley is the easiest one to adjust. but the afpr wont give you much power and might actually hurt performance considering tpi engines run rich anyway..

you dont need a larget tb unless you are pushing 450hp.


Old 11-15-2001 | 04:26 PM
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From: Santa Rosa, CA
Car: '91 Formula
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 1991WS6:
I would save your money and do the open filter at the end of the stock intake piping (that intake piping isn't a real restriction anyways) and get an AFPR.

As for the airfoil, save the 50$ and look for a used 52mm throttle body on ebay. you can usually get one for about $250, and will get you much more than the airfoil. A lot being sold used even have the airfoil .

But keep in mind, on a stock car, you biggest restriction is the headers. I would look into doing that first, then addressing intake issues.

</font>
I guess I could just save the money for something worthwhile, like getting my SFC's installed. I still haven't gotten the money, or found anyone to do that. I just want to do something now!!!
Old 11-15-2001 | 10:12 PM
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From: Conroe, TX
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
Being the creator of the "fake" cold air setup mentioned above (87tagta) and having admiration/respect for most people, I am insulted by your remark. Let me give you some quick schooling.

For starters, your setup is very nice. I chose not to cut a hole in my car and stick a filter through because of cosmetic reasons and bad thoughts of rust and structural instability. My setup does all of the following: Sucks in cold air (Wow! it really does!), Sucks in NO water (I'd be amazed if you could drive in the hard rain and still come out with a dry filter.)

I used exhaust pipe to minimize obstruction and turbulence. I used a conical filter to maximize air intake. The air that hits the air dam on the bottom of the firebird/TransAm is pushed against the radiator and some of this (lets call it "cold") air is routed through the fenderwell. This in turn is put straight into the path of the filter. That's how it works. Very simple and no cutting.

I'm sorry to go off. I do all my own work on my car and would NEVER recommend my setup to anyone else if I didn't feel that it worked. My setup is cheaper than the SLP version and I'll bet it flows more air as well. It is a nice inexpensive and EASY alternative. I have respect for all those that further their cars. So have some respect for the rest of us. And next time you call something "fake" or dare I say, rice, think twice and remember we're all here for the benefit of fellow thirdgeners. Not the downplay of someone's ideas.

------------------
~3.1EyeCandy~
"The car that started my craze" -'92 Firebird 3.1 (A car sold)

My new baby: '87 flame red GTA 350 w'auto, ported and polished plenum, custom cold-air intake w/K&N, Hooker SuperComp Exhaust, Splitfire plugs, Hypertech Airfoil,
Carmine interior with pioneer all around
THE GTA
Old 11-16-2001 | 03:40 PM
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I never said that the stock filter location pulled in cold air, just that the intake tubing isn't a restriction, and it sure as hell is a better idea than having a filter on the TB.

In fact with the 600 cfm filter, you stand to lose power, as the throttle body outflows that. Never mind the air turbulency issue.

And no, the throttle body isn't that big of a restriction, but I would rather spend $200 and get 7-10 hp than spend 50 to perhaps pick up one or two.

Finally, I installed a homemade AFPR with the FP set at 46 psi. I found that torque increased rather dramatically over the bottom end, suddenly after doing this, I started having some serious traction problems. The benefit of this isn't to make the mixture richer, it is the better mixture quality from the better spray pattern out of the injectors. It takes about 5 minutes of the computer reading the O2 sensor to pull the extra fuel back out of the tables.

The only downside to the FP increase is that whenever the battery is discopnnected, the car will run like **** until it relearns to pull that fuel out.
Old 11-17-2001 | 01:25 AM
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From: Conroe, TX
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60e
No offense taken from you, 1991WS6. What I took offense to was:

"not like those guys fake cold air set ups.. all they have is an open filter near the fender, wheres the cold air?"

from ron rizzotti

Just my (and many others who've done the mod and liked it) .02

Old 11-17-2001 | 10:38 PM
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From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula, '95 Formula
Engine: LC9 , LT1
Transmission: TKX , 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.50 9" , 3.23 10bolt

Hey,

SLP's setup is only 199.00 btw..

It includes a K&N filter, a 1988-1992 plumbing setup, and a new airbox that
goes direct into the fender.

It would be nice to be able to just get the
airbox, since I run w/out a filter at the track anyway.

The idea of spinning the airbox and pointing
it twords the fender with some tubing probably works very well.

-- Joe
Old 11-17-2001 | 11:55 PM
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its still fake to me
by your theory a stock setup is cold air becasue it is getting cold air from near the fender wall anyway..
"different air filter mod" is what you have, not cold air induction.

and if you read ron mullins cold air induction you would see that a filter is not at the end of the tubing....ALL the air is from outside the engine compartment, which is colder. the air you get is a mix of under hood hot air and whatever air from the fender wall your filter gets..

as for rain i havent had a problem with sucking up any water.

everyone is entitled to their own opinion,, im not trying to start any wars here.
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