Momar

I just bought an 87 tuned port setup from a wrecked T/A. I had to take it out myself. That was a P.I.T.A. But I was careful and got all of the wires(I mean all!!!) I took everything from under the hood and the entire interior wiring harness. I was wondering how much of this do I really need. (especially the interior. I have the fuse block and all. Some of the stuff such as power hatch pulldown is so intertwined in the harness that It wont really come out. I removed the speaker wires. I noticed that under the hood that when I spread the wiring harnees out that it was almost like it was two seperate wiring harnesses. They were only connected by one connecter. one side had mostly sensors and fuel injector wiring. The other had stuff such as lighting and horns and soforth. I was wondering if there is anything necisarry on the second part mentioned. I did notice that it had the fusible links from the starter and possibly a clip to a sensor I am not sure being as the clip is broke off and I just have the wire. It will be put on a 350 roller motor that was origionaly carbed and put in an 85 T/A that was origionaly equipped with a LG4. Any help would be great. Also I know I will need the high pressure fuel lines but the ones it had were in kind of rough shape and I thought that I would get new ones. I didnt have time to get the tanks so I was wondering if I can use my tank and by stuff to convert mine to a high pressure fuel pump and proper sender. If not I know of a tank I can buy at a local junk yard. Thanks again for any help I really need it.

Momar

please help!!! answers to any question will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Project86Iroc

Okay, I did a similar swap from my 87 Z28.( just recently sold the harness) The harness from the drivers side of the firewall mostly contains your gauge sending unit wires and lighting(Coolant temp sending unit, oil pressure, voltage/ignition switch) There is an 8MM bolt in the middle of the connector that lets you unplug it from under the hood, so ideally you wont have to screw with the under dash harness. The passenger side harness that includes all three connectors to the ECM, controls most all of your FI functions. The interior harness is almost completely segregated, including your AC controls. AS for your tank question, as far as I know, the carb pickups are smaller than the FI, so you will need the FI tank. You will also need to plumb a return line(3/8 metal line) back to the tank. And my advice, dont buy a junkyard tank. Thirdgen tanks have a plastic baffle in them that deteriorates in varnish QUICKLY. that will clog your pump, and you dont want to have to pull that bastard down again, do ya? buy a new american designers from autozone for $125.
Mike

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I would love to be there when those Muslim Bastards hit the Pearly Gates and realize they were wrong...

Momar

Thanks for your help, but I also read that there are some wires that you have to run from the fuse box when doing this conversion. Does anyone know anything about this. I just want to get this all straightened out so that I will know what I am doing when it comes time to put it all in. This may sound like a dumb question but what is the sending unit? Is it for the fuel gauge. How do you install the pump and sending unit in a new tank? Is there an opening to work through? Thanks for any help.

John Millican

iTrader: (1)

You will need to swap the engine harness of course. As far as the interior harness, don't touch it. You don't have to. Unless you like aggravation.
But really, only a few wires need added to the instrament panel harness. I have a sketch of the needed wires and where they go. Here's a link to my sketch, feel free to e-mail me specific questions. I'm glad to help.
http://members.home.net/millicanga/files/TpiWiring.jpg

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86 Camaro Sport
LT1 Induction
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Raptor 700R4 Tranmission, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Hooker Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project
Moderator at SE ThirdGen

okfoz

I disagree, it all depends on what he has now. IF he has an LG4 or any other carb engine, then I would consider changing the dash wires as well. I simply unplugged, and removed my dash, then installed the other dash. It was pretty straight forward, and was pretty easy, just took about 6 hours to accomplish.

If you have already FI of some sort, then you do NOT need the dash wiring, from what I have seen they are all the same. granted I have NOT looked at all cars with all configurations, but I KNOW for a fact that my LG4 and my TPI wiring harness under the dash are COMPLETELY different.

This of course depends mostly on a major decision: do you want it JUST to work, OR do you want to be right. I could have gotten it to work without the dash swap, but it would have been a cobble job in my eyes.

As for the wires under the hood, you are VERY correct and the wiring harness is in 2 sections the one section that comes out of the firewall on the drivers side seem to be for the accessories, like Airconditioning, wipers, windshields washer, etc.
The other set of wires that come up through the fender are for the engine controls & sensors.
You might be able to get away with unplugging the one half of the harness & only using the engine side of the harness. That sounds more confusing to me than anything.

When I did my conversion I bought the whole darned car.

John



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G O D BLESS AMERICA
87 Formula Yellow/Black

5.1 TPI Automatic
Baer 12" brakes 4 wheels, KYB AGX Adjustable Shocks & struts, Custom Leather interior, WAAAY TOO MANY MODS TO LIST

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

1967 Buick Riviera 430hp Turns high 14's (Not bad for 4300 lbs)

83 Camaro
83 T/A

http://www.3rdgenformula.com

okfoz

I forgot...If you want to read my journal on what I went through you can see it on my web site:

http://www.3rdgenformula.com

after the splash screen look for "Modifying my Formula" on the left side about half way down. Click on it and in there there is a link to "converting to TPI, (Work in progress)" it is actually done I just never erased the (work in progress).

John

Momar

I do have an LG4 now, but I was wondering what exactly is different on the harness under the dash. I know my car has a cable driven spedo and the car I took it off of had an electric one but I dont have the tranny or the speed sender or whatever it is called from it. I did not see a whole lot of other difference. I am not saying that there isn't, I would just like to know what the differences are before I remove my entire dash. The other wiring harness is no longer itertwined in the other dash(which I do however have) so I would also have to sort out that mess.

Thanks for your help

Ben

jmd

iTrader: (4)

http://www.monte-list.nu/tech/tpi/86camaro-86monte_dashplugs.txt is a list of an 86 Monte (L69) vs an 86 Camaro (LB9) so it should be very similar to what you have. The LG4 got a knock sensor starting in 85 so it's functionally darn near identical to the L69.

You can use the mechanical speedo to give the 85-89 TPI a 2 pulse VSS signal, which you want. MAF = 2 pulse, SD = 4 pulse.

If the fuse block connection underhood is the same, I like okfoz's idea of the whole dash; I didn't have that option I don't consider it a hack job, we're talking 3 wires new to the ALDL & 2 to the fuse block / crank wires IIRC...

okfoz - basically the EFI cars are very similar with the exception of one or two wires. That's why TPIing a TBI car is pretty easy w/ a donor.

Matthew