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best you can run without heads, headers or poweradder???

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Old 07-06-2001, 06:18 PM
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best you can run without heads, headers or poweradder???


i've done following mods now:
- removed the cat
- removed maf screens
- ported the plenum, just bumps front of EGR holes
- cool air (i throwed EVAP can out of window and rotated air filter box in a way it takes air now from the fender hole)
- Accel filter was there already, so i just washed it (K&N equivalent?)
- removed fog lights, so brakes and engine will get more cold air
- timing is set to 12 degrees. we're running 95 octane here, but it's pinging a lot after 4500. i'll just bypass the knock sensor with proper resistor

in case i'd have now 500$ to spend, how would you spend it pls no headers, since i wont be one who change those... and looks like one day job.

what you'll change Sir?


-P


------------------
Pontiac Trans Am GTA'89

CC1 GW6 G80 JG1 L98 MXO N64 WS6 822

mods: firebird '89 four spoke steering wheel and i'm still not running low 13's yet!
Old 07-09-2001, 05:34 PM
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Car: '86 IROC-Z/'94 Z28
Engine: 350 LT1/382 LT1
Transmission: 4L60-E/T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.45/3.42 (soon 4.10)
First, put the timing back to stock! SB Chevys are real sensitive to timing. That'll kill performance right there via the knock sensor. Some underdrive pulleys, an airfoil, and SLP runners, ported and matched to the lower intake. Remove the lower intake, port it, clean it, reinstall it and new guides. Get a hotter cam. Maybe a muffler. Small bolt-ons. They add up in a hurry! Make sure you attack one area first, so you get maximun benefit between mods. Just don't go crazy with one part, like build a 600 HP engine in front of a stock rear and trans. That was extreme, but you get the picture. BTW: make sure it runs to it's full potential STOCK before modding. Responds better. When 'tuning up' make sure to use the best quality parts you can buy, again, for max benefit.

[This message has been edited by dhirocz (edited July 09, 2001).]
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