Hello yall, it's been a while since I've posted and for the last 1 1/2 yrs my Camaro has been sitting in my garage on jack stands waiting for a 383 build. Well here are the latest pics of the 383 long block that I've built from the ground up. The Superram is being painted and will be installed tomorrow. I'll update the pics later. Below is a list of the internals, EnjoY!

350 roller block 4 bolt main
Eagle forged esp stroker crank
ARP main studs
Clevite "H" series bearings
Scat 2icr6000 6.0 forged rods
Wiseco Pro Tru forged pistons Flat top 10.7 compression
Comp Cams XR282HR roller cam
Pete Jackson gear drive with 2 pc timing cover
ATI 7" Super Damper
AFR 195 heads 65 cc chambers
Crane Gold race self aligning rockers 1.6 ratio

The block was machined .030 over and notched for stroker applications and the rotating assembly is balanced. The motor I'm estimating to be making at least 500hp plus there will be an addtl' 150 shot nitrous controlled by a Nitrous mastermind from Jacobs.

 

SWEEEET!!!!!!! nice engine should be bada**.keep us posted.,by the way love your wheels (centerline scorpions i see) me too,later jimmy

 

Actually those are the Centerline Billet Sabers. I'm installing the intake tonight which is the Edelbrock High-Flo TPI base but I don't remember what the torque specs were. I looked on their website but it's not listed. Does anybody here happen to know what the torque spec is?

 

torque specs are as follows:intake runner to plenum15 to 20,intake runner to intake manifold 15 to 20,throttle body to plenum 18,fuelrail to intake manifold 18,iac 13,schrader valve 7, intake manifold bolts 30.hope this helps. later jimmy

 

Looks like fun! Are you doing the tuning?

Mike

 

Actually with a Super Ram you'll only want to torque the upper intake runner to plenum bolts to about 80-100 inch pounds, since they're tiny compared to the stock tpi ones. In fact, you'll probably end up hand tightening those anyways since there's really no room for a torque wrench on them.

 

Thanks for the info 1fastam

 

Yes, I'm using the Innovative Motorsports LM1 wideband datalogger to help me tune the engine since I can burn my own proms. It looks pretty simple to use.
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I'm thinking about modifying the plenum to runner bolts to where I can bolt it up from inside the plenum box. I'll have to loctite them in place so they won't get sucked into the intake if they loosen up. I've heard someone else on this forum did the same thing and it worked perfectly.

 

What headers are you going to use? Still the Edlebrocks?

 

I have a set of SLP headers that I'll be using. I donated the Edelbrock headers to our local Waste Management because they were cracked and rusted through.

 

With the large exhaust ports on the AFR's, I thought so. I had checked your Cardomain page, but that has not been updated lately.

The motor looks great. I'm planning something similar soon.

 

I haven't had a chance to update it but I will eventually. Here's a pic of the lucky recipient awaiting it's heart transplant

 

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I'm thinking about modifying the plenum to runner bolts to where I can bolt it up from inside the plenum box. I'll have to loctite them in place so they won't get sucked into the intake if they loosen up. I've heard someone else on this forum did the same thing and it worked perfectly.[/QUOTE]

I haven't put my super ram on yet and I'm thinking about doing the same mod before installing it. Actually, another idea I'm considering is to tap threads into the runner holes and install studs. That way you can just drop the gasket, then the plenum onto the studs, and use those locking nuts that have the nylon in them, along with some split lock washers. I figure using the nylon locknuts, it'd be highly unlikely that they'd ever come loose from vibration. Another plus to using studs is that you won't weaken the threads in the soft aluminum by undoing bolts all the time. I was also thinking of using the red, permanent loctite on the studs to keep them from wanting to turn out when you undo the nuts. Just thought I'd throw my idea your way. Pat.

 

Another possibility is to use tie wire to keep the bolts from comming loose. This is used in the aircraft industry. If using nuts with studs maybe cotter pins would work better.

 

I think I've decided to use the regular plenum bolts on the locations that are easy to get to and then on the difficult ones run bolts through the bottom and use high temp high strength epoxy to hold them in place then use the nylon locking nuts and bolt it in from the top.

 

After dispensing my advice in the last post, I decided to take a closer look at mine. After looking at it, I think I'm just going to put slots in the end of the bolts like the other guys have done, and just use a precision screwdriver to draw them up into the plenum, then do the final cinching with a 1/4", 12 point wrench. As much as the super ram costs, I'm a little leery of going nuts drilling and tapping things.

 

Very true. I won't drill or tap into the plenum or runners because the bolts I'm using for the inside holes are slightly smaller than the threads on the plenum so no tapping and drilling is necessary. I'm going to use a metal epoxy that will come off with some persuasion if needed I'll post some pics on the final result.

 

That's def the best way to install it

 

Beautiful car,very cool

 

Thanks!

 

Here is a picture of the intake installed. The plenum is mocked up in the photo just for a visual. I also threw in a picture of the torque arm and crossmember that just came in today.

 

Look like it going to be a runner. what cam did you decide to go with.
Also, the UMI TA looks like a nice piece.

I just order the same TA setup along with UMI LCA and adjustable panhard bar (in black). with a fresh set of nittos DR it should hook up well.

 

I went with Comp Cams xr282hr. It's not too lopey and not too smooth. I also have the UMI LCA and panhard bar and relocation brackets.

 

Just curious, I was looking at the pic of your t/a-crossmember setup. How does the t/a attach, since the t/a and the crossmember both have an eyelet bushing on them? Do you put a long bolt through both to hook them together, or is there a bracket of some sort that's not in the picture? I've looked at a Spohn setup that was on my buddy's car, and it had a spherical rod end on the t/a and a shackle type bracket on the crossmember. Just wondering how yours goes together.

 

It attaches to the crossmember with 2 oval shape metal pieces with 2 holes in each and mount on each side of the bushing (kinda like a shackle)

 

Oh ok, makes perfect sense now.

 

if it's still in there, bye bye t 5

 

I agree. I'm expecting it to go boom shortly after the car hits the road

 

Here are some pictures from yesterday of the motor going in the car.