DANIELEK

Does anybody know how?

Please let me know.

Thanks

------------------
89Iroc, 305 TPI, WC T5, 3.08 Posi, Flowtech Headers 1 1/2, Hooker Y-Pipe 2 1/2, 3 inch over the axle, Flowmaster 80, No Cat, Aluminium Driveshaft, Ported Plenum, Air Foil, MAF Screens/Fins removed, K&N, Gutted Air Boxes, AFPR @45 psi, Ram Air, Throttle Body By-pass, Bumped Timing @12, Bosch +4, MSD 8mm wires, HP Rotor, Cap and Fuel Filter, Sensi Trac rear Shocks.

Kyle F

Don't do it, you might lose a piston.

------------------
89 Trans Am Turbo 3.8L All stock 43,000 miles #1053 of 1555

Past Thirdgen:
86 Trans Am w/ built 355TPI with SLP goodies and too much other stuff to List. One sweet *** car, wish I would have had a good enough Job to pay insurance on three cars so I could keep it, but for a 89 Turbo Trans Am w/ Low miles, I think I made the right choice!

Grim Reaper

The best thing to do is control it properly within the eprom. I agree with Kyle and do not beleive you should disable it, you are asking for more problems that its worth.

Ed Maher

Boo you guys, really, BOOOOO!

Without a scanner and the ability to see what is really going on, bypassing the KS can be a good way to eliminate knock, whether false or true from your tuning equation.

Bypassing is gravy...3.9K ohm resistor to ground in place of the KS.
...ed

------------------
Ed Maher - Moderator @ The Carb Board
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 4L60 GU2 G80 - stock, soon to be sleeper
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

WHITE87GTA

what would happen if you just diconected knock sensor and did not put in the 3.9k resistor? do you need this resistor?

johnsjj2

I agree with Ed. Disconnect it. In my old TurboCoupe, we use to do this all the time. Even with 20psi of boost, just run real good fuel. Everything will stay together.



------------------
Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28
Flowmaster
K&N
305 / 5spd. (Temporary)

Ed Maher

My 92 will throw a code within 10 seconds if there is no KS or resistor taking it's place. Not sure how fast the diagnostics kick in on MAF cars.
Also, i wanted to add to my earlier post, saying you really shouldn't do this as a long term fix. Use it as a tuning aid so you can hear knock, rather than have the computer take timing out before you even know you're pinging. Or if you find out you run a lot stronger with it bypassed you know you have an issue with false knock stealing your timing.
...ed

PETE

iTrader: (1)

supposedly the factory program takes out 2-4 degrees of timing when the car shifts from 1st to 2nd on an auto i read an article a while back it said to splice a 3ohm resistor into the circuit and hook it back up normal

dhirocz

iTrader: (2)

I drove my '86 around when I first got it and never had a problem. After putting about 4k mile on it, I noticed it disconnected, and plugged it back in. Never threw a code. Just make sure you run cool, set the timing before and run 93+ octane only. make sure there's no chance to detonate. Then look into disconnecting it...but then, you wouldn't need to, so it would be better to leave it in as a safety measure...I'd just do the prom work.

IROCZZ3

I've heard that disconnecting the sensor without installing the resistor will put the ECM in limp home mode when the coolant temp goes above a certain temperature...if that's true, then I would at least put the resistor in to "trick" the ECM. Can anyone else verify this?

------------------
1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'

Grumpy

In the chip you have to reset a flag.

Parameters for setting the error code vary some calibration to calibration. There is always a min coolant temp setting.

Some programs run a K/S test when you first turn the key on, and then again at over 3/4 throttle.

Some codes, won't allow Power enrichment if the system fails the K/S test.

If you want to disable it correctly, you need to read up on chip burning.

Grim Reaper

Grumpy, sounds like another candidate for a FAQ.

Matt87GTA

Hey Glenn, I think you need to pull your weight around here. I mean over 6000 posts is really not going to cut it. ROFL j/k......

------------------
1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, Home-made cold air system w/ K+N cone and AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, 2300 stall.

"Stop Lights timed for 35Mph are also timed for 140Mph"

GeneralHazzard

machine man told me guy forgot to put his knock sensor in in a block he did. slapped smiley faces in the cylinder walls. thats just what he told me though

IROCKZ4me

I woldn't reccomend removing it either, unless you know how to recognize detonation (including when you can't hear it).

You could just desensitize it instead of completely removing it.


Remove it,

clean the theads thoroughly,

apply several wraps of teflon tape to the threads,

Reinstall with just enough torque to seal it from leaking coolant.

Plug the connector back in and you're done

You'll have less protection but still some, and you won't have to worry about the ECM getting ticked off at you.

------------------

Tracy /AKA IROCKZ4me
'86 IROC-Z Camaro
"Cogito ergo zoom"

• 355 cid
• AFR heads
• Arizona Speed & Marine hydraulic roller cam w/ AFR hydra-rev kit
• modified SLP runners
• TRW forged pistons/ceramic coated
• fully balanced
• Edelbrock headers/ceramic coated
• SLP cat-back
• Paxton supercharger
• Nitrous Express nitrous oxide

EFI Performance Club on Yahoo