91FirebirdFmla

I have checked everything I can think of, and have replaced many parts:

Professionally cleaned injectors (they needed it)

Wires, cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, O2 sensor.

I have checked for gasket leaks, none.

I know the injectors are fine

I have checked for breaks in the plug wires... none

I have removed a wire and inspected the quality of the spark with the engine running.... very strong, whitish blue

I have removed the FPR vacuum hose, there was no fuel comming through to the intake.


I have datalogged the car and all other sensors read normal. But My BLM's are bouncing around between 108 and 120. Other than this, the car drives fine. The engine is completely stock with the expected amount of power.

Is there anything else I can look at that would cause this rich condition?

Blue_Thunder

iTrader: (1)

Are you getting any trouble codes. What is your o2 sensors reading. Also whats the pulse width on the injectors at idle. Whats your fuel pressure. And are all the spark plugs firing.

91FirebirdFmla

Spark plugs are all firing, I'm not sure of the fuel pressure, don't have a gauge. O2 Sensor seems to be fluxuating between 800 and 100 mv. PW at idle is .66. No trouble codes. The integrator is constantly crossing over between rich and lean with the blms being set to indicate a rich condition.

Thanks for the help

91FirebirdFmla

As an update. I had confirmed that the spark plugs were all firing at idle, but...

I played around with the engine some more and was able to make the issue more noticable, this may have been due to the recent hotter weather influencing engine operation. But now I am sure that I am gettting a miss, not noticable at idle, but under the part throttle conditions in the <2000 rpm range where speed the throttle is open enough to maintain speed, i get some "bucking" of the car. I have confirmed by using a timing light that current is being sent at a relatively normal pattern through the wires at idle. Perhaps it is firing too quickly for me to see the miss.

Additionally, I found that my MAT was bad, so I replaced that. The engine runs better but the miss is still apparant, under the conditions mentioned above.

The plugs are new the cap is new. Everything else, I assume to be OEM. Can somebody suggest something that might be causing this problem?

I'm not sure if this helps point to the issue, but I have fan switches installed, and whenever I turn the fan on, the engine misses, right after I turn the switch.

Any ideas?

LoneStar666

sounds like it could be an electrical ground somewhere, or the fan switches are somehow causing it.

91FirebirdFmla

I guess I'll be checking my engine grounds tomorrow. Any idea how many there are, I've never looked in detail so I won't know if i'm missing one.

There is the negative battery cable, then a wire off of one of the exhaust manifolds which I have seen.

Any others?

91FirebirdFmla

I may have found the problem. After testing the coil, which was fine, I began examining engine grounds. I tested the resistance in the wire between the negative battery terminal and engine block. It was several thousand OHMS. I imagine it should be much less. I removed the wire, and cleaned off the corrosion. The resistance decreased somewhat and the car ran much better and smoother. Still a slight miss but cleaning off the wire was the single thing that most significantly improved my problem. I plan on replacing the wire and cleaning up more thoroughly the area around the exhaust manifold. I also plan on hooking up the computer to see how the ints and blms are responding to the change. Hopefully for the better. 14MPG is no fun. Any other suggestions are welcome.

Would it be worth it to add an additional ground from the engine to the body of the car?

LoneStar666

dont see how it could hurt to add one, maybe it will help the problem out more who knows.

theres a bunch of grounds in the fbody engine compartment... get a cold beer, a flashlight and spend some time just looking around in there to see whats going on...

also if you can get another set of eyes under your hood.... sometimes its the most obvious thing right in front of your face

91FirebirdFmla

Well the negative battery cable helped a lot. I am getting a smoother running engine and better performance. Although, I am still running rich. In terms of datalogging, my BLMS are stuck at 108 in all areas that I have datalogged. The most noticable change since the new cable is that the INT has stopped fluctuating so wildly. This indicates to me that the computer has found a good amount of fuel to trim to compensate for whatever is causing it to run rich, and the better ground is allowing for consistent spark so that short term adjustments don't have to be made.

As far as the cause for the rich condition, I am clueless. I pull good vacuum, and all sensors are reading fine. I have one issue left that might lead to the problem.

In closed loop, and especially noticable when the engine is hot. If I am in first gear around 1300 RPM at a constant speed, the car will start bucking back and forth wildly. Outside of this range it runs fine. It is very hard to feel this effect when accelerating, only at the constant speed. Whenever this happens, my knock count starts going up. I think the sensor is picking up the sound from the bucking. But as to what would cause this at only one speed, I am unsure. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

LoneStar666

try replacing the ignition module and the ignition coil, those 2 things can cause big problems if they arent working properly

91FirebirdFmla

Well I may have found the problem. Tell me if it matches the symptoms:

I pulled the dizzy to get to the ignition module. It was so rusty under the cap that the rotor was siezed to the shaft and required a lot of force to remove.

Additionally, I could tell that the ignition module had been replaced before, as the "heat transfer compound" underneath was noneother than dielectric grease, rather than the required thermal grease. I will have the module tested at autozone.

More disturbing is that the pickup coil tested bad according to the test instructions in the chilton's manual. The resistance between the terminals was within range but on the low side, while the resistance between a terminal, and the base of the distributor was a mere 820ohms, instead of the required infinity ohms. I am not sure how this directly affects driveability but it can't be good.

Do you think it is the cause for my rich condition? I'll update the post when I replace it. Unfortunately I can't remove it. It is a different part than described in the manual. I have a stock external coil HEI system. The book describes the removal process as unscrewing 3 screws, pulling off a retaining clip of some sort, a magnetic sheild, and then the pickup coil. I have no screws on mine, and it seems stuck on. I will search the board for others who have this design.

Additionaly, the star shaped disk that appears to interact with the pickup coil somehow is severly rusted. Once I have everything apart, I will be cleaning up the entire area.

I am tempted to replace the distributor, but would rather not. Any ideas/opinions?

LoneStar666

it might not be so much that your car is running excessivly rich, as much as your HEI system isnt putting out enough voltage to do a complete burn of all the gas in the cylinders

get a high output coil, and a new rotor. all the corrosion under the cap deffiently isnt helping anything either.

91FirebirdFmla

Well, I replaced the distributor with a reman from autozone. The old one was so rusted, I can't imagine the pickup coil was working properly. The star that contacts the pickup coil points was completely rusted as was the pickup coil.

So I put the new distributor in, set the timing to 6 adv, and the car starts instantly now and ran amazingly for a few minutes. I was datalogging at 114/114 right when it went into Closed loop, when the coolant was cold. When things started getting hot, it started missing again and running like crap and the blms and ints shot way down.

Of course this will lead me to the only component left that is original that I have not replaced: the coil. Although it tested good, it was cold at that point. Its way too hot in the engine compartment to do anything after the engine has run. So I guess I'll put the new coil in and see what happens. I don't regret putting in the new distributor, as the old one was junk anyways.

Anybody else suspect the coil now?

91FirebirdFmla

Well I failed emissions again. Not as bad as before. Attached is the Dyno reading. To summarize, the following parts are new as of this year:

Wires
Plugs
Cap
Rotor
Distributor
Ignition Module
Pickup Coil
Fuel Injectors
Fuel Filter
Knock Sensor
Oxygen Sensor
Air temp sensor
MAP sensor
ECM/PROm
Battery ground cable
EGR solenoid

No codes are being thrown and timing is at 6 deg advanced. The plugs look fine, the HC's are high because i have an intermettint miss in the low RPM range. I can feel it in the car. Interestingly enough, right after the new distributor/cap/rotor/pickup coil/ICM, the car ran great, even inclosed loop, until it warmed up. So I know how it should run.

So what would cause an intermittant miss? I am desparate to find out, as I have run out of parts to replace and adjustments to make. Additionally, all of these parts that I replaced were malfunctioning in some way.

91FirebirdFmla

See this link for the whole story:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tpi/...h-no-clue.html

But the question now reduces to this:

With all new ignition components: coil, distributor, pickup coil, spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and timing verified by timing light

AND new fuel injectors, O2 sensor, ECM, PROM, and a negative battery cable/cleanup of engine grounds,

What would cause an engine to randomly miss in CLOSED LOOP ONLY in the <2000 RPM range?

Additionally, proper readout of all sensors has been verified by datalogging.

I have no angles left from which to attack this problem. Any suggestions would be great.

Vader

Your injectors were cleaned, but what does the injector service report indicate as a measured flow CC/min in the final testing results?

91FirebirdFmla

I was never given a report, stating injector flowrate. Although i was assured that they were prefectly balanced and were the correct P/N for my car. Do you think this would result in an intermittant miss?

I have narrowed the problem down to this. After some testing, I realized that it runs fine in open loop, but in closed loop in the low RPM range, it starts to act up.

fran_astur

This may be a stupid thing, but could you have a fuel pressure regulator that fail when hot?
You have changed all sensors that in any way can change the air fuel ratio, but I don't see any mention about your fuel pressure.

Its only for contribute with any idea.

91FirebirdFmla

I have not yet checked the fuel pressure directly, although I have pulled the vacuum line off the regulator to ensure that I am not getting any fuel leaking by. It may be worth getting a gauge and investigating. But I am leaning towards some sort of electrical problem, since I can distinctly feel a non-periodic, but occasional miss.

If anybody knows a way to measure, under driving conditions, when a plug is fireing and compare it to when it should be firing, that would help me confirm the conditions.

If, infact the injectors were allowing too much fuel to flow per pulse width, is it possible that the ECM compensation for this extra fuel, combined with the desire to hover around the 14.7:1 a/f ratio would ultimately cause it to add fuel to the point of missing momentarily before adjusting the mixture. I don't know if the computer can react to conditions this fast. When datalogging, the int and blms never get above 128 and are always below, so I know it is always trying to pull fuel to some extent.

Additionally, I have noticed a slightly varying idle speed, but my map pressure is around 27kpa, and I can't hear a vacuum leak anywhere in the engine bay. Although, this may be the ECM trying to adjust to the proper mixture, due to the miss.

When I replaced the distributor, I checked all of the wires, and then waited until it was dark to verify that there was no arcing.

91FirebirdFmla

So to sum up all of the above posts I pose this question:

What would cause an engine with all new ignition components and fuel injectors, and no vacuum leaks to randomly misfire?

N7GTJ

iTrader: (2)

I hoped you would have found the problem, as I am having the same. Just ordered new injectors and fuel regulator.
I have a 91 formula 350 and stalls when it gets hot. It sets a trouble code as it stalls then disappears when it dies. I would have to be reading the code right before it dies, so I don't know what code it is throwing.
The car runs real rich by smell but the cats keep me from getting a real reading.
I have a new cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, filters, etc.
I was told that too high fuel pressure would cause this. I ordered a fuel pressure gauge that mounts to the fuel rail to see if that my be the problem.

91FirebirdFmla

Well, as a last effort, I replaced the computer with a spare I had. Since 2 injectors had shorted coils, there was a slight chance the computer could have been fried. Of course as everyone could have guessed, this didn't fix the problem.

The car runs fine when cold, but will still misfire in closed loop. I noticed when driving on these recent cooler nights that the engine behaves better when the coolant temperature is low but the misfire is still there. I'm clueless. I suppose my next step will be the same as N7GTJ's and put a fuel pressure gauge on the car and see how it behaves.

CreepingDeath94

iTrader: (4)

Not sure if this will help with the misfire, but rich running, aside from a mis, could be caused by coolant temp. sensor going bad. If the ECU thinks it is colder than it really is outside, the car will run too rich. Is the timing correct? Can't remember if that was something you checked in that laundry list of replaced parts and tested components :-p Hope you find it soon...failing emissions tests sucks I would imagine.

91FirebirdFmla

Thanks for the reply. I set the timing to the factory spec. Proper coolant temp sensor operation was verified with my datalogging setup. The temperature ouputted to the screen seemed steady, realistic, and matched the gauge in the dash. Based on my emissions test, it is the miss alone that is causing my rich condition. Correct me if I am wrong, but if something such as a vacuum leak or a misreading sensor would normally cause a rich condition, the learning capability of the ECM would adjust the fuel flow by tuning to the oxygen sensor to roughly compensate for the error in the system.

My ECM is trying to correct for a rich condition, yet the BLMS are not bottoming out completely, and I am not throwing a rich code which I thought it should based on the emissions test results. Also confusing is that I am getting very frequent O2 cross counts, so it seems like the system is tuning.

Any Ideas? Just to reiterate, i can definitely feel the miss. It is most pronounced at a certain low RPM in 1st gear. At this point, the car will buck back and forth. I'm almost certain this condition is the source of the high emissions.

CreepingDeath94

iTrader: (4)

Usually, if anything, a vacuum leak will cause a lean condition. If you just need to pass emissions, maybe try unplugging a small vacuum line. It will run like crap but might pass long enough for you to drive it while you figure this out. I'm confused as to why it is still missing. Everything I can think of has been replaced. Did you do a cylinder leak down test? Maybe you have weak compression in a cylinder due to a bad piston ring or something. Since all the peripheral stuff has been gone through, that is really only leaving mechanical issue in the engine itself. Do you know if is a particular cylinder that is missing? See if you can find out if it is just one constantly doing it. Maybe valve seals are leaking one or two and causing that combustion chamber not to fire sometimes as well. Not sure what else it could be. Seems like you have done everything already short of the engine mechanical tests. I hope it isn't anything in the motor.

91FirebirdFmla

I agree with you in that I should begin testing the motor. I was hesitant to take that route before since it had been rebuilt right when I had bought the car. Since then, I haven't put more than 10,000 miles on it. There is a section in my helms manual about diagnosing an engine with a vacuum gauge. Based on the movement of the needle, you can tell a lot about an engine apparantly. I may try to borrow a vacuum gauge and see if that leads to any conclusions.

I imagine that the leak down test would be most conclusive if the engine were hot and demonstrating the miss. Although it is impossible to do anything to the engine when it is hot, especially play around in the spark plug area.

Based on feel, I can tell that it is not a constant miss and the car runs very smooth when cold.

Depending on the vacuum test results, I may end up doing the compression/leakdown check.

CreepingDeath94

iTrader: (4)

Unfortunately, even with the rebuild, it could still be the engine. If the rings weren't installed properly or if it didn't get a good break in, it could lead to an internal mechanical issue, even on that low mileage of a motor. I hope not, I was just saying for the sake of eliminating possible causes.

91FirebirdFmla

Well I hooked up a vacuum gauge. The motor pulled a steady 17 in Hg at idle. The needle was not moving back and forth at idle or at any speed or RPM I drove it at. But when testing, I noticed that if in neutral, I depressed the accelerator slightly so that the engine speed was around 1300-1400 RPM, the vaccum gauge would start slowly varying by 1 in hg and the idle would lope up and down by about 100 rpm. This would also happen to a lesser degree at higher speeds until about 2000 RPM.

Additionally, while on a long drive, sitting at a light for about 3 minutes, the engine suddenly stumbled and died after which, it started right back up and ran fine. I also noticed that when idling, if I step quickly on the brakes, it causes the engine to stumble.


I'm sure all of these problems are related but I can't figure out how.

If I were getting a constant miss, wouldn't the vacuum gauge be moving back and forth all of the time rather than a generally steady reading?

I also checked my vacuum while cranking which was around 2in hg.

N7GTJ

iTrader: (2)

Could it be possible that the brake booster may have a vaccuum leak?

I checked my fuel pressure. It is 17 to 20lbs. with switch on, not running and 30 to 35lbs. with the engine idleing. Pressure bleed down is not real fast when shut off. It is still hard to start and dies when warms up. Still running rich by smell. I will try and replace the injectors this weekend.

91FirebirdFmla

I don't suspect a vacuum leak in the brake booster, since the engine pulls a reasonable vacuum at idle and the brakes function well.

Although, it sounds like we have the same problem, only my symptoms are to a lesser degree than yours. Good luck with the injectors, watch those lower runner-to-intake bolts between the runners, they are a pain.

91FirebirdFmla

Well I'm convinced that the problem is somehow electrical. While idling with the fans switched on, and headlights on, the car would stumble,and almost stall, and I noticed that all of the gauges ie, gas, voltage, temperature, fuel would fall for a fraction of a second as though the car were turned off.

Any ideas? The voltage gauge reads fine. Possibly a short in the wiring harness? but why only when hot?

transam85dudeman

Hey, im having the same problem. but i think i have a bad prom, only because the engine light stays lit during engine running, and there are no trouble codes, even after disconnecting the ground to reset the computer. hey just a wonder, check your Torque convertor switch by your brake switch under the dash, theres a vacuum hose that goes to it, check the switch, and also check the egr vacuum solenoid....im getting a hypertech stock prom, i hope it solve my problem, i did the whole nine yards, replaced a lot of 22 year old carbonated junk fryed junk bushings, etc. its clean now in sense, but its the damn prom. If you can match a different prom try that..WTHell. the prom controls fuel delivery and injector pulse. i had to replace mine cause a short in the MAF wiring and Distributor ecm feed back wire, AND the coolant, MAT. the wire was hella exposed, and hella heat damage to the insulation of the wires. AHHH, i just replaced the torque arm bushing with an ENERGY Polourathane. and the transmission bushing (completly seperated!!) with a PRothane poly bushing. My car Idles revs, can get around, but misses, it runs rich, has cold drivability problems and a slight hestitation. the timing has been tinkered to make it idle but no detonation. when i get the chip, im readjusting THE TPS TO IAC. ALSO CHECK YOUR TPS. that controls the fuel adding for the computer to "know" the throttle blades and execute the presets pulse and injects of fuel for certain rpm, temperature etc. im no specialist, but i bet you got a small little problem. not a engine MEChanical. otherwise you wouldnt get far, or drive to get the honeys.
-mike
1985 trans am TPI Computer 870! slow but a classic innovation.

91FirebirdFmla

Well. The TPS is fine. I took it for a drive tonight. It was very cold out and the engine was runing about 30 deg cooler than on a warm summer day. Although I can smell the fuel in the exhaust, the car was much more driveable. I have heard that there are 2 coolant sensors. I'm assuming that any datalogging of coolant temp data would come from the sensor the ECM uses rather than the temp gauge in which case the sensor is working correctly.

So the problem continues to confound me. Any ideas what would lead to this.

88sleeper

I read a GM tech article once that was showing the same problems as you describe, the problem was injector failure at operating temp. The heat was causing an intermittent failure and was compensated, too much, by the other injectors. The heat caused the resistance in the injector coils to spike. I would replace all of them, not just have them cleaned.

91FirebirdFmla

I would tend to believe that. As I found out after I sent the injectors off to be cleaned, they were multecs which are apparently crap from the start. So the coils may be failing at temp. I didn't think I would experience failure so soon after I got them back. I don't know if I want to go through the labor of replacing the injectors for a second time, as I have been thinking lately of selling the car and getting another project.

91FirebirdFmla

Well, 88sleeper got me thinking hence my above post, then the thinking got me acting. So I went to ohm the injectors. I was going to do a cold/hot back to back test to see the difference. Well I didn't get past the cold test. I had one injector ohm 7.5.

The rest were between 14.9 and 15.9. Obviously this is bad. My question is will this one bad injector cause me to run rich to the point missing/stalling under certain conditions?

Would these work as replacements: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Can't believe its the injectors.....

transam85dudeman

Hey man, those arnt for your car. you should be wanting to get accel, bosch, or venom (installed venoms for my ride). For about $26.88 an injector Venom is good for the value. fuel injector cleaner sometimes shorts out old injector. my OHM values were all 16.4 +- .3 but those were stocks. I recommend part number VNM-HP-619-8 at summitracing.com or same thing but heres the url http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku tthey are rated 19#s which is ideal for your 91' 305cu" TPI speed density. id turn up the pressure on the AFPR, and clean your penium, thottle body, EGR, and vacuum test the canister, check valves, while your engine is apart. but the old injector are brittle and could crack in the injector ports. becareful.. also synthetic oils good___ Rear diff synthetic bad.

91FirebirdFmla

Problem Fixed. I installed some ford SV1 19lb injectors. The car runs great.

Who would have thought that one shorted injector would cause a severe rich condition?

One comment about the ford 19lb injectors. There have been discussions on TGO about whether or not the ford 19lb are rated differently than the GM 19lbs. After datalogging, I would conclude that they are rated differently. Under steady state conditions, my blms and int are always way above 128 indicating the compensation for a lean condition. Usually around 130-150, depending on engine speed, gear and throttle position, but generally matching eachother. If ever a difference, the int is always lower than the BLM. The map is reading around 30KPA at idle, so I'm certain the lean condition is not due to a vacuum leak.

I think this is ideal from an emissions testing standpoint. I would rather have a system start slightly lean and add fuel to get the proper a/f ratio than the other way around. The good thing is that whenever I get on the throttle and start driving in a range where a lean condition could be dangerous, the blms shoot way down, indicating that I don't have to worry about killing the engine due to lack of fuel.

At least since all of the injectors are functioning, so that the ECM can properly compensate. Although I can feel an occasional hickup due to this compensation, overall, the car has much more power, a very smooth powerband and a nice idle.

I would like to hear what others think about this, especially those who have the SV1 19lbs on the 305.

Nazzz28

Good to hear. I just finished swapping out my injectors and intake this week after having the same problem you had. I had this miss at idle and failed emissions so I took my car to one of the emission certified garages. They said it was my ignition system and my number 1 cylinder wasn't firing. The thing is I just replaced the cap, wires, plugs, rotor, and coil with MSD components 6000 miles ago. They did their thing and I got my waiver but the car still ran like crap. Come to find out the number 1 injector was fried and this was causing all of my problems. Now after replacing the injectors the car runs great, smooth idle, great throttle response, and more power. The only thing is, when the car warms up and goes into closed loop the BLMs read 108 at idle and jump right to 128 when I hit the throttle so I have something else to figure out.

Good luck passing emissions.

91FirebirdFmla

Well I failed the emissions test again. Same readings as before, even though the blms are in the lean region. For good measure, I replaced all of the vacuum lines in the engine bay. I notice that the engine is stumbling in the lower RPM's. Even stranger is that the car is running worse than it did when I posted about it being fixed.

I'm really leaning towards something mechanical being wrong with the engine, although it passed all the vacuum gague tests. There must be something wrong with the engine independent of the fuel injectors for a shorted injector to make no difference in emissions readings.

91FirebirdFmla

Problem finally fixed. Although the injectors were bad, and the distributor internals were worn, it was not the biggest issue. It turned out to be the EGR valve. As a last effort, i replaced it. The one I put in was very different from the one I took out. Although the bases of both were the same, the new egr valve had a much bigger vacuum diaphragm. Also, the old egr valve had a line protruding from the base. Attached to that was a vacuum canister of some sort, which was free-floating under the plenum. There was a vacuum T out of this canister, but nothing was hooked up to it. The egr valve did not appear damaged. It just looked like the wrong one. Now, with new injectors, plugs, egr valve, and distributor, the car runs amazingly. Very smooth and fast motor. It is sure to pass emmissions now.

If anybody knows the story behind the egr valve I described, I would be very interested to know

91FirebirdFmla

Well. Its settled. Inspection passed. It was the 3rd time I had been to the shop. By the end of the test, everybody was clapping.....

wanab03ss

iTrader: (20)

dude ive been watching this thread since it started and i gotta say im happy to here you got it all resolved and can finally enjoy the car.

jokestyle90

congradulations on passing. i am glad i read your thread .. i just got my bird 2 months ago and it has been a project. i still have not fet the cars full power.
i have done the distributor,cap,rotor,wires,plugs,o2 sensor, i hve found 2 cylenders not firing #6&8 because of bad injectors.so i am just waiting for the money to replace em. also while im in there i will do the egr that way i will not have to take the intake back off if it goese in the future...
cant wait till my car has the power it desrves

91FirebirdFmla

Thanks for the replies. It is an amazing feeling to drive a properly running car. After all the time and money, It was definitely worth it.

N7GTJ

iTrader: (2)

Well mine finally runs too. I got tired of trying to find the problem, and after thowing just about every part at the problem I took it to Az TPI in Mesa Arizona. They replaced the O2 sensor with a heated one because the headers were not allowing the stock sensor to heat up correctly. They also found that the EGR solinoid was bad. Since no solinoids could be found they removed the EGR from the computer.
Now the car runs again just like it should.

BigBadLou

iTrader: (3)

Congratulations, 91FirebirdFmla, on fixing the problem. That was a long and arduous journey but you were persistent and didn't give up. Good job.

Although I am surprised that for a long time, nobody suggested testing the injectors since they are the most important thing on a fuel injected engine.

I have been having the same issue as you (slight miss at part-throttle in closed loop only) and concluded that it must be my injectors. And sure enough, the resistance test itself revealed a few low-resistance coils. With the car parked for the winter (a month or two here in Texas ), I will be shopping around now to find some good injectors to put on the engine.

Btw, did you try to adjust the injector flow rate in your PROM to compensate for the different Ford injectors? It's usually faster than retuning the whole fuel table.

Lou

Eightyninef

What are your BLM's and INT now that you passed inspection ?
Also, are you running the OEM prom ?

JoshVanWay

All firebird and camaro motors come running extremely rich from the factory