Raiden

Man, My Z has been fighting me for a few weeks and kicking my butt! I had lashed my valves because a nut was loose. I ended up replacing all rocker nuts. I lashed my valves cold, then I lashed them warm. I gave them 1/2 turn past zero lash as I always do. My car was running great, but one ignition wire got under the valve cover and caused a major short So I chased that short into my ingnition switch. I fixed that, too myZ out and it ran great. Then, I noticed it was not running so well when I would activate my N20. So, I changed my plug wires, new plugs that were 2 steps colder than I usually use. I gapped my plugs @ .32 and my car started running like crap! So I gapped them to .38 and it seemed to idle ok, but under acceleration I did not see the computer go past 20 deg advanced @ WOT. It was really bogging down. Then, my car would not start. Turns out, my ignition switch was bad. So, I fixed that. Now, I go to start my car and it hardly idles My car sounds like its' only running on half the cylinders. I used an old spark plug wire and plug. I have spark. fuel pressure is 43.5, I have no vacume leaks. compression check was 180 in all cylinders. The one thing that I found interesting is that I am throwing no codes. I unpluged my spark wire that sets the timing and I still get no codes??

Where do I go from here?

ResurrectingZ

Reset the ECM computer and try for a code again? Betting the ECM is fried.

Raiden

No, I have two ecm's and both are doing the same thing.

ResurrectingZ

Checked the voltages at the TPS?

Raiden

My tps is fine via my diacom and CM software. So is my map sensor. I have an extra map sensor and ESM I will swap out to see if any change occurs

I wonder if going to a 2 deg colder plug would cause my car not to run well?