WhiteKnight

So after sitting for the winter everytime I start my car now I get codes 15 and 34 which are for the MAF and the coolant temp sensor. At first I thought I'd just run it for a while, figuring maybe there was a bit of moisture or something in the air intake causing the MAF to give off a wierd reading but that failed to work, so I swapped out my MAF for a spare that I have and I still got the code popping up. Anyone have sugggestions on where to start looking now on how to get ride of this code?

In regards to the 34 code, I had the same code comming up at the beginning of last summer and I replaced the coolant temp sensor then which fixed the problem. I was just wondering if anyone knew of anything else that could be causing this problem before I go out and buy another sensor? I know its possible the sensor could have gone again, but I was hoping I would get more than 4 months of driving out of a sensor before it died on me.

The car is parked in the driveway so I havn't had a chance to take it out for a drive, but it seems to be running fine, just a bit of an uneven idle sometimes. I just really wanna get this figured out since I have to go through emmissions before I can insure my car this year and I'm not gonna be passing with the SES light on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Vader

I think you have the code definitions backward, but a little that's not a significant problem since you are still getting both of them. a '15' is for a coolant sensor reading impossibly low. This is normally caused by an open circuit. Check the connector, measure the resistance of the sensor itself, and check the connections at the ECM.

The '34' is for an unexpectedly low MAF reading. That can be caused by an open circuit, poor electrical connections, a TPS voltage which is too high, dirt or accumulation on the MAF sensing hot wire, or leakage in the intake air ducts between the MAF and throttle body or any other external vacuum leak.

WhiteKnight

I looked both codes up in my code reader book n guess I got em mixed up. Thanks for the advice, I'll have to break out the multimeter for the first time when it stops raining and have a look.

Vader

While you have the meter out, you might as well check the MAF output right at the sensor. Connect to the 'C' terminal at the MAF and a good chassis or ECM ground (terminals 'A' or 'B' should be good grounds, but be careful of shorting).



Expect to read between 700-850 mV with the engine idling hot.



When testing the CTS, expect resistance close to this: