whiteminqua

Ok, Im sure this has been asked a bunch, but here goes. I am getting ready to build a hotter motor for my stock 86 IROC.

I have a 60's vintage 350 4 bolt mains block. Should I build it or sell it?

Should I ditch it and buy a vortec crate motor/intake/cam etc....

Maybe a used 350 vortec truck motor? Would need intake/cam/etc...

Or, can I effectively get some ponies out of the 350 with good parts choices?

I need a totally streetable motor that can put down 350+ horse power.



What would you recommend and why? Costs? I am currently parting out some stuff to get cash for the project...

The car is an automatic with 3.23 gears, the buildup will involve a new heavy duty transmission. I have been aquiring stuff for the car for awhile now, including transmission cooloer, fan switch, shocks and struts, etc. This is a STREET car that will need to pass Pennsylvania smog rules.

Stingray69

I would sell the old Gen 1 and either acquire an '87-up roller cam, 1 pc rear seal vrtech headed 350 motor and rebuild it, or buy a crate vortech type, and get the Scoggins Dickey or GMPP vortech tpi base.

whiteminqua

Any other ideas out there? Would this early 350 4 bolt main engine block be a problem for a rebuild? Can I use Vortec heads and a roller cam with this block, or do I need a newer motor for this?

I realize tha some things, such as the knock sensor, would have to be relocated.

Ideas?? Comments? Thanks to all!

TPI

A GEN I small block can be retro-fitted with roller
components, so it really doesnt matter.. its all about
expense.. There is absolutley no problem using that
block.

rgarcia63

My 388 was built from a non-roller World products 4-main 350 (Motown SBC,) with GMPP Fastburn Vortec alum 64cc heads
The rotating assembly is all 350 with 3.75 stroke & 6" rods, forge alum JE dished pistons.
I didn't retro-fit to a roller cam, but do use roller rockers, with a Compcam's mild street cam.
The top end is TPI with Scroggins high-flow intake base, stock runners, modified plenum, over-bored stock throttle body (58mm bores,) deleted TB coolant passages, and 30lb injectors.
SLP 1.75" header w/y-pipe to 3" collector, A.I.R. manifold, and external EGR kit for the intake base EGR valve.
The knock sensor is in the stock location.
All the emissions system are intact and working
Comment:
This engine wasn't built for racing - for race I'd gone with a better induction system. Even if I did want to race, I don't the have the gear/tranny combo to handle the torque.

rebel1222

Guys, I hate to ask a stupid question, but where is the knock sensor located? Is it threaded into the passenger side of the block?

Vader

It can go in either side (and on some engines, both sides). The factory put them on the right side in most installations using a single sensor.

3rdgenZ

iTrader: (1)

you can put a roller cam in it , but you must buy the retro fit lifters. witch are about 450bucks new. you should still be able to get 350 HP with your non-roller cam setup and the vortec heads. to do all that for your motor it should be around 1500. (not including the rebuild)



you could just buy this>http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1578...rip-Engine.htm