335 stroker or 350 swap?
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Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
335 stroker or 350 swap?
After much diliberation, I am thinking about bigger cubes for the 305. Powerhouse has a 335 stroker kit. Is it worth it?? Cost of Stroker kit is going to be around $1000 with machining. Would I be wasting my money? Could I find an L98 block 87-up and convert it cheaper? Anyone who has done the swap feel free to chime in to give a breakdown of what you paid to do the swap.
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Car: 1983 trans am
Engine: Vortec 350 w/ a comp cam
Transmission: B&Mth350 2800holeshot
Axle/Gears: 10bolt 3.23's
i say upgrade to the 350. i was at a pull a part junkyard today and saw a bunch of roller 350's ripe for the pickin'. they could be had for about $50-$100 then just rebuild it with a kit for about $200 and youve got a roller 350 shortblock for $300-$500. and if you want to later you could pull out the 350 and stroke it out to a 383.
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Well I always fly the 305 flag, but on this one I may change my typical tune. You could build a 383 stroker for what you will spend building a 335. As long as you find a 350 with a good block, crank, and rods, it will be cheaper to build the 350 vs the 335. The cheapest route is to build the 305. What is your power goal? You can build 300hp from a 305 pretty easily. If you want 350-400hp you will be better off with a 350 or 383.
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Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Honestly, I drive this car everyday, and I kind of want to keep the 305 since it is original. I would like to have around 300 to the wheels and for the strip maybe a 100-150 shot. Is that achievable without sacrificing reliability? Is a 150 shot safe for the powerhouse kit? I think it is cast crank, and hypertuetic pistons.
By the way, a roller block 350 around here is the most rare finding in local junkyards. Out of 3 junkyards, 1 of them had a 3rd gen and it was a 84 6 cylinder. Hawks is local but they think there stuff is gold.
By the way, a roller block 350 around here is the most rare finding in local junkyards. Out of 3 junkyards, 1 of them had a 3rd gen and it was a 84 6 cylinder. Hawks is local but they think there stuff is gold.
Last edited by WhiteIrocZ; 12-17-2006 at 04:46 PM.
#6
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Well if you want 300 at the wheels, that is a tall order for a streetable 305 cid engine with a long runner intake. I would say with my heads, cam, and the large tube runners and base with a dynomite tune you would only see 330hp at the flywheel. I would say you could use a 150 shot with relative safety however. If you want 300hp at the wheels with a streetable 305, buy a supercharger.
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Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I was already thinking AFR 195 with Slp runners and a ported stock plenum and base. Add on hooker headers and y pipe, catback, and the 335 stroker kit, and also a suitable ignition with a tune. Sound like a recipe for 300 at the wheels? Not to mention the juice...
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Car: Red 1987 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.45
#9
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That's a recipe for 240-260 at the wheels. put those heads and intake on a 383 and then you will have something. Converting a 305 into a good running street engine with existing parts is cheap, easy and rewarding if your goal is 300hp at the flywheel. Stroking a 305 is not really very cost effective. I am not bashing people who have built 335s, I think they are cool, but they are not the most cost effective way to more displacement. It is your car and your money, do whatever you wish. a 335 is certainly a unique deviation from the cookie cutter 350 swap. If you are going for maximum power per dollar and 300 wheel hp, you will not get there with a streetable 305 or a 335 without a power adder. a 300 weel hp car will be making roughly 370 at the flywheel, thats a ton for a small motor with long runners.
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Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks for all the help guys. I would rather tie my money up into something that could have more potential than a 305. I am currently looking for a 350, I have 2 4 bolt main 350's but they are 2 piece rear and no roller. I am thinking about breaking down and getting the stuff from Hawks...but they are going to rape me.
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Car: projects.......
surely there's a 88+ truck block around some where....Some of the trucks didn't come with the roller factory, but the block has all the provisions for it.
- I agree on skipping the 335 for a performance build. There's more hp to be had from bore size than stroke. - And I'm also a 305 person....
- I agree on skipping the 335 for a performance build. There's more hp to be had from bore size than stroke. - And I'm also a 305 person....
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Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Always always always go with the bigger bore.
Lets u unshroud the valves and will more than make up for the stroking of a 305 vs just going with a 350.
Unless your stucking on minimal budget and need it to run, just find a good 350 core.
later
Jeremy
Lets u unshroud the valves and will more than make up for the stroking of a 305 vs just going with a 350.
Unless your stucking on minimal budget and need it to run, just find a good 350 core.
later
Jeremy
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Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
No, I am not on a real tight budget, as a matter of fact I don't have to have a motor now. It runs great just as it is, but just not quick enough for me. Chevy should have done a little more to make these cars quicker. I love the car, but it just doesn't carry its wieght like I want. I called Hawks today, they want $300 for a 89 350 long block that has sat for a while. If you know anything about Hawks, they keep their motors in a warehouse so I am sure it is in decent shape, and that isn't a bad price so I will ride down there this week to check it out. It is getting built anyway so if it is locked up, its cool with me. I am getting my stroker motor one way or another, whether it be 335 or 383....
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Car: 87 iroc
Engine: 454 .030 over
Transmission: th-350
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt
you cant just build a 305 like a 350 and expect it to make power, its a 305, a whole differnt beast, u can get just afr 195's and bolt them up because the cylinder bore is just plain old to small, ud need to get some ported 461's or somehitng, IMO the olny diff between building a 383 and a 335 is that u have to buy a 350 block, to get agood core 350 block it can be found for as cheap as 50 -100 bucks, then u have all the same machine work and new parts that a 335 stroker would have but just in a bigger bore engine and you have 383 cubes, which has alot more potential, and as for keeping the 305 because it is origainal, that adds no valve at this point in a third gen's life, if they ever become rare and worth somehitgn then do as im doing and keep the lil old 305 on a stand in the back of your garage for safe keeping
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Car: 87 Iroc Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I wasn't talking about keeping the original motor for the value, its just the originality of it. And plus, if someone really wanted to check you out good, or didn't believe it was a 305, they could run the block numbers.
Its definitely 383 for me now...going to pick up the block when they open up after new years.
Its definitely 383 for me now...going to pick up the block when they open up after new years.
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Car: '78 Camaro
Engine: '87 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: '81 WS6 Disks-3.90:1
Pull the 305, slap in a 355, and you still have the original 305 for whenever, whatever.
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