low and unsteady idle
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Car: 88 iroc/383 82 regal/sonoma 4.3 5sp
Engine: 5.7 tpi/383/4.3
Transmission: 700r4,th350,t-5
low and unsteady idle
hey guys i just got done my cam swap and i cannot get the car to idle steady. i know the car will be lumpy with the cam but i have underdrive pulleys and any in gear idle under 800 causes the car to run on the battery and i have to two foot the car to keep the volts high. I reset the iac and set minimum air to 900 rpm and plugged the iac in. I set the tps to .54. when cold the car idles at 1100-900 (and the alternator will charge 14.8 at 900 rpm when cold as well), which i assume is normal for cold idle. i understand that stock these cars run at 600 rpm in gear but i wish i could find some way to get the idle up without messing up my cruising rpms (i learned that when i set minimum air to high). ive experimented with different alternator pulleys but i need at least 800 rpm to keep the charging system happy. I also run a msd 6al box. when im in traffic the condition worsens because then the car has a stumble off the line and really low volts. Also i never cleared the est trouble code after i set the timing.... will leaving the code stored in the computer make the car run in a different mode??? ive checked for other causes... no vacuum leaks, great fuel pressure (which i also adjusted to different psi's to try and help the idle)any ideas would be great. you guys are the experts so hopefully its someting i can fix. daily driving a car that i have to two foot in rush hour is very annoying haha
thanks
joey
thanks
joey
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Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
Throw away the pulleys if your experencing charging problems.
Especially at idle and especially with an untuned cammed car.
It just makes it worse and worse as it goes.
Run the regular pulleys and see if that helps your situation, which it may well might if your seeing that much of a voltage drop.
Steady volt readings are a good thing where electronics are concerned.
I would ditch the pulleys and then try and see how low you can get it to idle.
For best results, obvioulsy you will need some tuning in there to make it work well and for a low as possible idle.
220/230 your more than likely looking at 800 rpm or so in gear, maybe a little more maybe a little less depending on tune and exact combo.
later
Jeremy
Especially at idle and especially with an untuned cammed car.
It just makes it worse and worse as it goes.
Run the regular pulleys and see if that helps your situation, which it may well might if your seeing that much of a voltage drop.
Steady volt readings are a good thing where electronics are concerned.
I would ditch the pulleys and then try and see how low you can get it to idle.
For best results, obvioulsy you will need some tuning in there to make it work well and for a low as possible idle.
220/230 your more than likely looking at 800 rpm or so in gear, maybe a little more maybe a little less depending on tune and exact combo.
later
Jeremy
#4
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Car: 88 iroc/383 82 regal/sonoma 4.3 5sp
Engine: 5.7 tpi/383/4.3
Transmission: 700r4,th350,t-5
i did get a chip made for the upgrades that i performed, im not running a stock chip or a hypercrap chip... but i assume that the chip isnt perfect. the only pulley im running is the crank pulley, i already ditched the alternator pulley that came with the underdrive kit, which did make a good difference in voltage. with the stock crank pulley i get decent voltage, but sometimes when the rpms dip under 600 the voltage drops. if there was a way i could keep the idle at 800 in gear i would be fine with the underdrive, or at least 650 with the stock pulley. the rpms just wander from 900 to 450 but it wont stall out.
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