1992rs/ss

ok, this is very confusing to me. here is where I am at in getting my new tpi setup to work. I will first say I have no trouble codes or warning lights. when I hooked up the auto x-ray it says that the car is lean. which is not true cause I have gas coming out the tail pipes. it also says learn mode dissabled. now it will idle on it's own but only above 1000 rpm. it dies almost when you put it in gear. I will add I have little to no brakes it gear either. I checked vaccum when it was idling and at around 1000 rpm it drops to about 12 in. of vaccum. rev it up and it goes up to around 17-18 in. of vaccum. now it is barely running when idling and shaking a lot so I think that is why I have low vaccum but thought I would mention this problem.
I have an adj. fuel pressure reg. so I thought I would check my fuel pressure cause like I said I have fuel comming out the tail pipes. with the vaccum line un plugged I had 45psi. I turned the screw to back it out and lower the pressure but the lowest it seemed to go after 7 of 8 turns was 44 psi. this made me start thinking so I plugged the vaccum line in and started the car to make sure the pressure dropped down at idle. well at idle with the vaccum line hooked up I read 38 psi. shouldn't it drop to like the 20's? I also tried the haynes manuals method for checking pressure too. the say, turn the key to on and watch the pressure go up and fluctuate while the pump runs. then they say that as soon as the pump stops priming the pressure should stabilize. well mine drops back down to zero. so do I have a bad fuel pressure reg.? would I get no error codes if I had a bad reg.? if the regulator was supplying fuel at 38 psi at idle would I have fuel comming out the back like this?
I fixed the injector constant on my chip to deal with the ls1 injectors and I just changed the plugs and this is where I am at. what do you think? help please!!!!!!!

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

your fuel pressure is fine, sounds like you may have a leaking injector or 2. if the FPR was leaking you would have seen fuel coming out of the vacuum fitting

Jay

iTrader: (2)

check the vacuum lines for fuel, also check the plenum. Mine was leaking and getting sucked into the plenum. The EGR passeges were full of fuel.
Leaking injectors shouldn't cause it to drop to zero immediately, would be a gradual drop off, unless the injector just failed completely.

How old is your o2 sensor?

1992rs/ss

these are brand new injectors so I doubt that one has failed. how could I go about checking this? the o2 sensor has been the same since I got the car 5 years ago, put about 12000 mi on it since I have had it. not sure when it was replaced by the previous owner. thought has occured to change it. the auto xray says lean on the lean/rich flag while it was running. this would then mean that it would start dumping fuel so maybe it is bad. what about the idle fuel pressure though. shouldn't it drop down into the 20's cause if max pressure is set at 44 psi, if it only drops down to 38 when idling those injectors are still getting a lot of fuel right?

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

ok, maybe i misunderstood what you meant about "having gas coming out the tail pipes".
i took it to mean you had liquid gas coming out,.. now i take it you mean black smoke, is that right?

my car is dead stock & i run 42 psi without vacuum, 36 with vacuum.
fuel pressure in the 20 PSI range would be way too low.
the O2 sensor could very well be bad.
do you have the AIR injection system on it?

1992rs/ss

I do have liquid gas coming out the back. so ok the regulator is good. the O2 sensor could be bad but wouldn't I get a code if it had gone bad. the big mystery here is that I am not getting any codes.

1992rs/ss

so maybe my regulator isn't good after all. the tpi swappers guide has a test to preform. it was turn the key to on and let the pump run. after running the pressure hold in the 40's or so. mine drops out completly. so then it says squeeze the return flex hose and see if pressure holds then. well I have braided fuel lines now so I pulled the return line off the hard lines on the body, plugged it with my finger and guess what the pressure went to 42 and held. supposedly this means I have a leak at the pump says the guide. only wierd thing was that after about two seconds I could take my thumb off the return line and the pressure was still holding around 40. so what do you think? is the regulator working and I have a leak back at my fuel pump somewhere? is my test valid cause I just plugged the return line with my finger? would this leak at my pump cause my gas coming out the tail pipes problem?

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

too rich can show up on the O2 sensor as being too lean. a O2 sensor stuck at the lean end won't cause liquid fuel to drip out the tail pipes, black smoke yes, but not liquid.

there could have been some dirt stuck in the FPR causing it not to seal properly, if the fuel pump wasn't holding pressure your pressure would have still dropped off, but neither of these would cause you to be rich. it not holding pressure when shut off won't cause it to be rich unless there is a fuel leak into the motor somewhere,not holding pressure can cause it to be hard to start until the pressure comes up.

what will cause you to be this rich is,
1, fuel pressure too high, what you have posted is fine.
2, a fuel leak into the intake, from either the FPR vacuum fitting or the injectors. that fact that it held after you removed the return line from the FPR shows there should not be any leaks into the intake.
3, injectors that are too big for your application or the chip set the wrong way. you said the chip was corrected for the new larger injectors, which way was the injector constant moved?
4, problems with the wiring causing the injectors to be open which should flood it out & cause it to not start & also probably lock the motor up because of the cylinders being filled with fuel.
5, internal problems with the ECM causing the injectors to be on for too long a time.
6, problems with the chip or 1 of the sensors causing the ECM to turn the injectors on for too long a time.

1992rs/ss

update:

well me and 3.8 transam have been putting alot of time in on my car trying to figure out what is wrong with it. fuel system problems have been eliminated even though it is running rich. the reason for running rich is that at idle in park it only has about 14 inches of vaccum. it is not a bad cat, cause we pulled that off and checked to make sure it hadn't gone bad. 94000 miles on it and it still looks good. IAC motor didn't seem right cause when we tried to set minimum air idle speed it made a real loud grinding sound. I replaced the IAC motor and got my idle vaccum from 11 to 14 so improvment but still not in the 17 to 22 range that a stock long block L03 should have.
we checked compression on the front 6 of the 8 cylinders that we could get to and all came out good. seeing as the car ran great before I swapped to tpi I don't think it is a valve stuck open or something like that. it has to be something I touched which was just intake manifold up. we blocked off the EGR passage to eliminate that being the problem. we also pulled the whole system back off, cleaned everything and resealed the intake manifold with lots of rtv to make sure the manifold was not the problem, after all of that it still had the same symptoms, shakes and low vaccum.
I don't think it is a wiring problem, I used the S&P integrator harness and I have no codes or problems that indicate a wiring problem. the ecm is good, I even swapped it with another 730 I had to make sure. the memcal is fine too. using a Moates G1 adaptor so the only programming comming off the memcal is the limp home mode and knock sensor stuff. the new chip has a stock 305 tpi bin on it. the only changes to the chip is VATS delete, fan temp, injector constant and fuel cutoff speed.
when propane was put in the pcv hole on the valve cover it did nothing so no internal leak. ran the propane around the runners and no change in idle speed. I pulled off each vaccum line and plugged them to make sure that none of the lines were leaking, no leaky line.
the dist. isn't in 180 degrees out, and the base timing was set to 6 degrees with the e.s.t. wire unplugged. we even pulled the crank pully to make sure the balancer hadn't slipped, nope. again I have no codes of any kind.
so in the end I am back to square one. either there is something wrong with the timing or I have a vaccum leak somewhere. what else should I be trying or looking for. we are ready to roll this car out in the street and have it "accidently" catch fire at this point.

Red Devil

Wait, let me guess... Accel injectors? Smaller than 30 lbs./hr.?

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

give this a shot, with the engine running, leave the timing set connector hooked up & bump the timing up some on it & watch the vacuum gage & see what it does.

3.8TransAM

Almost doesnt matter what u do.

Vacuum barely changes even doing it with the est connected.

About all we can do with timing is raise the idle speed if we advance the timing with the est disconnected.

What it is doing acts like:

Huge vacuum leak.

Intake valve hung/stuck

retarded timing

timing issue....

Its a real choice issue, I'm by no means a *** on cars, but I'm certainly no slouch either. I do it for a living.

I'm almost certain at this point when we find it we our gonna pee ourselves from laughing so hard at how dumb it is. always works that way on something like this...

His idle vacuum is ridiculously low, like 11-14inches hot in closed loop.

His idle map is reading almost 3 volts.

We have the back two holes to compression test and see how they fare. the other holes have been 155 to 168 psi so they are turning up good and even with oil there is next to no change in them.

We have torn it down all the way to the intake base and reassembled. found some small questionable stuff, but nothing that was/is the cause as of yet.

Anyone here have an 85-88? TB. The top hole on the pass side should be the breather and the lower hole should be the canister purge. We are assuming this is the same. He has an 85 TPI setup on top of an Accell base.(TBI 305 long block w/ SandP adapter harness)

We are hurting and looking for some clues, so anyone with anything similiar, please chime in

later
Jeremy

Synapsis

Pull the fuel rail up and turn the key on to pressurize the system. See if you have an intermittent sticking injector or a short in the injector harness.

Check the O2 cross counts. If the O2 sensor is going bad the count will go up slower than around 1 cross per second.

What did you set your injector constant to? You have a 305 with injectors for a 346CI LS1.

Check your IAC stepper position. If it's really low you possibly have a vacuum leak. If it's at 160 at idle you have too much fuel going in. (It might be the other way around, it's 2.30 in the morning right now.)

Speaking of which. That's all I have. Goodnight.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

what does the vacuum gage go to when you rev it up & let the throttle snap shut?
i have seen a bad map sensor cause the vacuum to be low from over fueling the motor, the bad sensor checked good & read pretty much the same as the new 1 at different vacuum levels but still had a problem of some kind. if you have a spare give it a try.

3.8TransAM

We made a list of spares we have to try just that.

When he gets home again we'e gonna swap out the map and the iac and work our way from there.

Everything appears ok looking at it with a scanner.

We will find it, please keep throwing ideas out.

I's gonna be dumb, that I'm sure, just what though lol

later
Jeremy

Vader

Good call, RD. Accell injectors failing? Naw, never heard of it...

Anyhoo, Denn has covered a lot of it, but just as a summary of what I would look at, pardon me if I repeat some of the already good advice.

Your desription does sound like a massive vacuum leak. 12" Hg at 1,000 RPM isn't right unless you're running a 320° duration cam in a 283. Pull all the vacuum lines including the PCV, brake booster, EVAP and EGR solenoid, FPR, everything. Cap all of the openings, and try again. If that doesn't improve the vacuum, start looking at the plenum and intake gaskets, runner/plenum flange matchups again, or even for cracked or voided castings, big gaps at the China Walls, poor intake flange angle match, missing or undersized injector 'O' rings, etcetera.

If the cam and/or timing set is not stock, consider the possibility of valve timing that is off by 15° or more (one tooth is 18°). Some cams are drilled wrong, and some timing sets are keyed wrong, and some are marked wrong. It may not be an installer problem, but a manufacturing problem.

Your MAP readings are verifying a low vacuum reading, and the ECM is probably seeing that as increased load (more fuel). I'm guessing that you're never seeing real closed loop with that O² reading, so the ECM is operating on BLM tables only. That could at least partially explain the excessively rich condition.

The fuel pressure is correct at 44 PSIG standing, 37 PSIG running with vacuum, ±3 PSIG for all readings. LS1 injectors reportedly operate at similar pressures, so you shouldn't be exceeding their maximum pressure and making them static.

Have you checked the injectors with a solenoid test light to be sure they aren't electrically held due to a shorted injector or wiring? Even if the data stream shows the ECM trying to fire them at X mS, a short in the wiring will make them go static. You'll never see that with a data scan.

You've got a real head-scratcher there.

Vader

BTW - The TB top fitting (½") is for the CCV line to the right rocker cover. The lower one (3/8") is for the EVAP purge, just like you thought. Cap them both for now.

Another possibility is a leaking TB, at either of these points, the lower coolant passages from freeze damage, or where it mis-matches to the plenum (mixed year parts?).

3.8TransAM

We went thru all the lines one at a time blocking them off and going to the next one.

Intake looked/appeared ok when we took it off again. Wish I could have found my flatblade to check it. But we resealed it and the ends are not leaking and from general appearances(visually, it looks good).

TPI components are stock 85 parts, plenum, runners and TB. The base is Accell.

The actual longblock is a stock TBI 305 engine in the car originally.

About the injectors getting held open, I hadnt considered that, but I will check it out and see what it shows.

Well, once he calls me we can try and work on it again and see what we find. I'm still betting something stupid :-)

Thanks for the replies guys, I'm taking this car as a personal vendetta now :-)

later
Jeremy

ploegi

Have a look at what temp the computer thinks coolant is. I have seen these symptoms before, and the only fault was a failed sender, telling the computer the engine was at -40*. Dumps TONS of fuel, and runs like ****.

Edit: Does not set a code either.......

rock'n z

sound like you have a vacuum leak arround the intake manifold there is an easy way to find this leak take a can of carb cleaner and spray along the lower intake gaskets the lower and upper runner gaskets while the engine is running look and listen for a change in rpm if it raises then there is the sorce of the vac leak the vac should be any hwere from 18 to 22 psi at idle

3.8TransAM

We have done the carb spray and propane test internal and external and havent come across anything as of yet

later
Jeremy

3.8TransAM

Sensor data also corresponds to what the engine is actually doing I.E. coolant = iat at startup cold and gets hotter as the car warms up etc......

This one should be interesting to find out when we get there.

later
Jeremy

1992rs/ss

well just to make sure there is no vac leak, I plugged and removed all the lines except the MAP, fuel pressure reg., and the brake booster is where I had my vac gauge attached. I then ran the propane canister around all the gasket mating areas and got no change what so ever. so I think vac leak is no longer a possibilty here. so is there some way my timing can be off with the balancer correct and dist in right?

1992rs/ss

ok, my injector pulse is 2.8-2.9mS when at idle. that is pretty high isn't it?

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Just as something to look at but are you using the CS injector?
If the rail is plugged and the line to the CS is open maybe you are pulling some air through the injector?? I've left mine connected to the rail but just don't fire it because I was suspicious of this without putting the blockoff plug in there.
Maybe your plug is not flat to the surface?
Sounds like you've been through everything else.

Power brake booster leaking allot of vacuum?

3.8TransAM

We are going to go back thru everything on sat morning.

Vacuum booster is where we usually have the vacuum guage mounts(inline from the plenum) so we know that isnt the source of the problem......

I'm wondering about a warped intake or runner, but we would have found that when we tore it down and/or the propane testing we have done.

Seriously going to look at the TB and the cold start stuff too.

Has to be a reason for this

later
Jeremy

1992rs/ss

well not a MAP sensor problem, swapped it for another and no change. I have no cold start injector, I put a plug in the runner and then a little RTV to seal it up, plus left the propane bottle there for a while cause I thought it might be leaking and didn't pull anything in. now what?

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Big hole in the base somewhere?
Was the Accell base ported and possibly blew into he EGR passage?
Obviouslt its not something on the surface, must be underneath but the propane in the PCV should have found that.
Runners on the wrong side ?(had to say it)
Fuel rail mounting bolt broken into one of the tops of the runner ports in the base? Front or rear runner bolt holes broken into the ports? (long horizontal, hidden bolts)
Back to EGR port possibly not fully capped.
Have the heads been ground and the angle changed at the intake and is not going down fully?
I'm stumped and don't see where the leak could be

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

Injector o-rings at the bottom???

Mcdamit

I just read though the whole thing, you have one hell of a problem. The rough idle I set the timing at a 45* advance with the computer and it smoothed the engine out. But he should have a smaller cam in there try advancing it might help the shudder. It has to be the injectors, pull some old multecs out of a rotting 80's tpi 305 camaro, that would be a good test(assuming they still work). Did you check the valves, if you are getting a massive fuel dump a valve not sealing could cause a headache, if not almost all of the fuel would get burnt up in the cylinders and manifolds.

Keep in mind i am an idiot but check the valve seals, that would cause a low vaccuum and the fuel dump.

1992rs/ss

3.8TA on 92rs/ss acount

with the idle chocked to 1200 rpm.

2,4,6,8 and 7 make a large change in vacuum and it seems as if the motor clears up considerably. Vacuum rise from like 5-6 to about 12-13 , idle rpm also came up when doing this as well obviously.

1,3,5 exhibit next to no change when the inj is disconnected, slight(if any) drop in idle rpm, but questionable if any.

Ran propane over entire engine and all gasket mating surfaces and could not find any definite changes. Also into the valve covers and noted no change as well.

working one angle at a time.

later
Jeremy

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

If 1,3, &5 show barely a difference, Then I would do the following:
1.) pull plug wires individually after the injector connector.
See if leaking injectors are putting burnable mixture in there.
Might yeild some answers.
2.) Check the power wire feeding that bank of injectors for a break or high resistance connection anyway.
3.) check pin C11 for good connection (injector connecton for odd side) Should be ok if #7 is operating but you never know it it has been spliced into the other side.
4.) I'm not thinking there are 3 clogged injectors?

Is the harness long enough to reverse the side?
That would be something nice to try.

Just tossing ideas again

Vader

I'm leaning toward the injector wiring possibility as well, but 3.8 is checking that as we speak.

Evidently, the rails hold pressure after pump shutdown, so that seemingly rules out leakdown.

I was also considering the possibility of a slow output transistor (during cutoff) in the ECM, and some of the older electronics can get slow to cut off after reaching saturation. However, the ECM has evidently been replaced, and the chances of two of them being that slow would be very remote. Besided, the '730 ECMS are not that old, and should be more reliable than the earlier ECMs.

Incorrect valve timing would allow a good cranking compression readings, but could contribute to low vacuum. That doesn't explain the phenomenon of better operation after pulling a few injector leads (one at a time).

Keep the thoughts coming. This should be a good one.

Cruzin Kaz

I am not sure if I missed it?? But what injectors are you running? I ran into a somewhat similar situation with my L98 with Multecs when they got a bit stuck open for some stupid reason. Just digging at straws here???

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

What do the plugs look like ??
Probly the only thing I havn't asked yet.
More I read these the more I'm steered twards the even side injectors dumping fuel in.
Any chance the injectors are not all the same size?

Edit: High pressure on one fuel rail, not the other ?
Nope, can't happen. Enters into the even side (2,4,6..)
psi tap is at #6 so you're reading what's there.
Clogged crosspassage tubes would kill 1,3,5 & 7 though.
Might want to look at the front cross tube.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

thinking about this, with fuel dripping out the tail pipes, you can't have a vacuum leak.
if you did your idle would be sky high & you would not be able to bring it down.
the ECM controls idle by nothing more than a calibrated vacuum leak & then adds the appropriate amount of fuel.

i know you said the injectors are new, but ohm check all of them anyway.

3.8TransAM

Injectors:

ohm at 12.8-12.9


Pickup coil:

800ohm resistance(good)

No continuity to ground or each other(good)

Generates .650 AC while cranking(good)

Ign module:

No pin point testing but defintiely switching and causing secondary spark


Injector wiring:

ecm to inj. No continuity to ground and all between .8 and 1ohm

power to inj. 5ohm to ground(continuity) but all ohm .8 to 1 ohm going from ecm to inj. wire. If I pull the ecm fuse that is fed directly from the ign switch(in the fusebox) it checks ok to grd.(some bleed thru on the ign switch perhaps?)

We pulled 2,4,6 and 7 and found that the idle would increase when removed. 1,3,5,8 didnt do next to anything or barely noticeable decrease.


This is further compounded by the fact the car has complete tbi wiring and the S&P adapter box that converts that to a regular 730 ecm to drive it. Some of the testing involves 730 diagrams on one side of the circuit and tbi on the other.

MAking sure there isnt a typo, TBI use one fuse for the injectors correct? that is as the GM book shows it, but he has a 10amp fuse in INJ1 and INJ2 in the fuse box? Anyone shed some lite there?

Eliminating one issue at a time, but not there yet.

Thanks for the help yesterday Vader, I appreicated it)

later
Jeremy

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Jeremy, check the ECM wiring at pins D5 and D6/D7. Pin D5 must be open, and D6/D7 has to be tied to the engine block (ground).

If D5 and D6/D7 are jumpered together the injector driver will be in PnH mode.

(D6 and D7 are tied together inside of the ECM).

RBob.

3.8TransAM

Consider it noted and will be checked next go around.

Any other thoughts to share? :-)

Jeremy

3.8TransAM

Okay,

Rbob, I need some confirmatin on your thought process here.

It is a 92 TBI car orignally, converter to TPI with S&P adapter box.

Im using 91 gm manual.

Appears that u mean on the TPI 730 ecm and pins BD5, BD6,BD7?

Shows BD5 open and BD6 and BD7 as inj. grds(curcuit 450)?

Least I am pretty sure this is what u meant, checked out lots, so just want to make sure we are on the same page.

thanks
Jeremy

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Yes, on the '730 ECM by tying D5 to D6/D7 the injector driver will be a PnH device. Trying to run 8 saturated injectors like that won't work very well. It just may work well enough that some injectors fire before the driver goes into hold mode. Then the others don't fire, or the injector firing gets erratic.

With using the S&P harness adaptor there is a possibility it isn't wired correctly.

Another item to watch for is the original TBI injector wires. At the TBI itself the wire used is different. The insulation is teflon based and the wire strand material is brittle. I've seen this wire spliced into the harness with normal wire to the ECM. At the splice I've had the injector wire break. I've also seen this special wire used all the way to the ECM connector.

Don't know how the port injectors are spliced into the TBI harness. If the original special wire is in use they may be an issue with the splice to the port injector connectors.

RBob.

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I learn something new everyday

1992rs/ss

ok, somthing tells me these injectors might be screwed. just as a what if, I put my fuel pressure gauge on the rail and decided to see what happened to the fuel pressure when you pulled the injector wires. I started the car and pulled one of the injectors that had been causing the rpm to go up. it made no difference!!! I know I'm not crazy we repeated this test multiple times and got it to do it. I tried one of the injectors that seemed to do nothing to a little rpm drop and it did nothing like before. then I thought, wait, we have been doing this test after the engine had been running for a bit. so when they fire for a few minutes they must go in to a hold mode or something like that. the injectors must pluse for a little bit when it is cold.
this could still be a wiring problem too, not counting that out just telling you a new piece of the puzzle. here are some pics of this adapter box to see exactly how this is wired up.




as you can see the old tbi harness plugs into the box and then out of the other side comes out the 8 injector wires, IAC, mat, cts, knock sensor, tps connectors. the other end also has the three plugs go into a the 730 ecm. the only wires spliced in are a wire for VSS and a fused power wire into a hot ir run wire. I picked the pink/black wire the ran into the original ecm as you can see in the pic. hope that shows more about what we are up against.

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I would pull the D5, C11, & C12 pins out of the 730 connector, make jumper wires from the and connect them to the output sides of the injector harness directly into the 730 connector.
Maybe use one of those snap on wire connectors for stereo/alarm use to tap into the return wires.
Try to run them directly from the 730 pins.
If that yeilds success then try to go backwards through that adapter and see what gives.
Something in this mystery has to get ruled out.
the adapter looks like just a breakout box and the wiring jumpered to the correct 730 locations on those connectors.
Might have a speed buffer built in as well, I don't know much about them but it doesn't look too bad (from here anyway)
May be able to trace through it without totally ripping the harness apart. Will take a bit of probing with an ohm meter but looks like most of it can be done in a few hours.
I don't have a TBI schematic handy or I'd try to give you some idea which incoming pins to checkout.

1992rs/ss

here is another fun fact I just learned, these are not LS1 injectors, they are LS6 injectors!!!!! hmmmmmmmmmmmm here is an ebay auction I just found with the same part number pulled from a '02 z06

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

From what I've found the base FP on those is 58 psi to get 28 lbs/hr. If I did the math right and you have
24.3 lbs/hr at 44 psi.
22.3 lbs/hr at 37 psi running.
I think I did that correct , it's getting too late for math.
"Sqrt (new/old) then * old flow rate"
Unless they are electrically different, I still say wiring direct may help at least make it run.

Vader

The injector flows might very well account for some of the problems, but it doesn't clearly explain why the engine seems to idle better / at higher RPM with some of the injectors disconnected.

Any news on the potential wiring issues?

Rob Wade

I believe I read this already but are you sure the timing marks on the balancer are correct? Could the balancer have spun? Not sure if the motor ran ok before the swap.

Vader

Rob,

Not to speak out of turn, but when I spoke with 3.8, he had already verified the damper outer ring position with a new balancer. I also checked to see if they were using a stock timing tab, and they are. I suggested the possibility of a valve timing probleml, but the engine reportedly ran very well with the TBI before the swap.

JP86SS

iTrader: (1)

I wonder if those injectors really like being run on such a low pressure. The atomization might just be crap and just dribbling fuel instead of a nice spray. From what I've read they operate at 58 psi and with only 37 on them it might be part of the problem.
they may be slow to open and really not putting in what the PW flow should be.