1985 Iroc
#1
1985 Iroc
We bought a 1985 IROC for my son, it was running fine, put new tires on it and now it cranks but won't start. We have been told it need a new fuel pump which is in the gas tank. We can't find anyone willing to do it. Can anyone explain how to do it?
Thanks
Thanks
#4
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by Mcdamit
they can correct me if I am wrong but you should need a new tank.
they can correct me if I am wrong but you should need a new tank.
#5
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Have you tried checking the fuses? There should be two of them I believe. One under the dash and one in the engine bay. You should also check to see if the pump has power thru the ALDL. You also should be able to hear the pump prime itself when you turn the key on but don't start it. Check all these things first before dropping the tank etc. It could save you a lot of money and headaches.
Last edited by CaptPicardsZ28; 05-06-2005 at 03:41 PM.
#6
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 33
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From: Memphis TN
Car: 99 TA---94 toyota p.u.
Engine: LS1----22re
Transmission: T56----5speed
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Its gonna be a beach to replace it.
We had one come in the shop for a fuel pump about 3 months ago. Just take it up to a Firestone they should do it for you, unless you wanna do it yourself. It took like a little while to do though. If you want "directions" on how to do that let me know, but Firestone should do it for you.
We had one come in the shop for a fuel pump about 3 months ago. Just take it up to a Firestone they should do it for you, unless you wanna do it yourself. It took like a little while to do though. If you want "directions" on how to do that let me know, but Firestone should do it for you.
#7
Try a few other things before replacing the Fuel Pump. How about the fuel filter or checking the fuel pressure at the FI rails.
You should have a min of 36 PSI there.
You should have a min of 36 PSI there.
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#9
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From: ready room
Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Re: 1985 IROC
Originally posted by jasenterprises
We replaced everything we could think of except FI rails, what is that?
Thanks
We replaced everything we could think of except FI rails, what is that?
Thanks
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 878
Likes: 1
Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
yeah replacing that would be a pita, but If you want to torch and reweld the gas tank be my guest, i suck at welding, plus i would be more happy just getting a new one due to how much gunk would be in that tank.
Goodluck.
Goodluck.
#12
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: New York City
Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 355 Tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3.27
Just to be double sure, because it is a pretty hard job replacing the pump. Get a volt meter, or test light disconnect the 3 wire plug directly above the diff, mounted to the body. See if you have voltage coming out of there when cranking. If not...it may not be the pump. It could be the relay, or even the ecm, but its worth a try. I put a pump in my car 3 months after I got it and it didn't fix my no start problem. The ecm got wet from a leaky windshield..there went $100 and about 6 hours.
#13
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: classified,ohmss
Car: 1982-z-28.1987 sc
Engine: 350 on z-28,305 on sc
Transmission: bw t-10 on z-28,700r4 on sc
if you find the the pump to be faulty do not cut the tank to replace it,that has to be one of the most common hackjobs done to thirdgens,as stated before,removing the tank is more time consuming than difficult,but it's doable and while you're at it you could try and install a 4th gen plastic gas tank.
just my
just my
#14
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 2
From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
You can power the fuel pump with the key off directly from the ALDL diagnostic connector at the bottom edge of the dash to left of the center console.
Connect a jumper wire to a "hot a all times" voltage source, or directly to the battery to the ALDL "G" terminal (lower left pin of connector.) I use my remote start swtich to drain the tank by clipping one end to the battery positive, and the other clipped to a diagnostic jumper in the "G" terminal that looks like a key ( got it at an autoparts store ) with 2 prongs, the "H" slot should be empty - no pin. Disconnect the supply flex hose in the engine bay, and clamp a hose to the hard line that goes to the tank, put the hose into a suitable container, trigger & hold the remoter starter switch until it's empty, well almost empty.
If the pump doesn't run then there's a faulty connection in the circuit, or the pump is bad. A short should blow the 20amp fuse by the battery,
Here's a post at the end with instructions for dropping the tank, and in advance the picture of the hack job is mine.
I wouldn't buy a new tank unless I see rust in the tank or on the sender,( which I did so I replaced the tank $150, and the sender used $60,) or it's it has major dings in it, which crack the sealant and cause it to rust.
FYI: if you have to wrestle, and force the tank out, it's imperative that you check the filler neck solder weld where it enters the tank because it may have small fractures that will grow over time, or the solder is completely fractured all the way around allowing moisture to enter the tank and rust the interior and the sending unit which, isn't cheap.
The filler neck has no support at the Fuel Door, so leaning on the gas pump handle will stress the solder joint, you may look cool leaning on it with you shades on while pumping gas, but it'll cost $200, or more bucks in the long run.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=294572
Connect a jumper wire to a "hot a all times" voltage source, or directly to the battery to the ALDL "G" terminal (lower left pin of connector.) I use my remote start swtich to drain the tank by clipping one end to the battery positive, and the other clipped to a diagnostic jumper in the "G" terminal that looks like a key ( got it at an autoparts store ) with 2 prongs, the "H" slot should be empty - no pin. Disconnect the supply flex hose in the engine bay, and clamp a hose to the hard line that goes to the tank, put the hose into a suitable container, trigger & hold the remoter starter switch until it's empty, well almost empty.
If the pump doesn't run then there's a faulty connection in the circuit, or the pump is bad. A short should blow the 20amp fuse by the battery,
Here's a post at the end with instructions for dropping the tank, and in advance the picture of the hack job is mine.
I wouldn't buy a new tank unless I see rust in the tank or on the sender,( which I did so I replaced the tank $150, and the sender used $60,) or it's it has major dings in it, which crack the sealant and cause it to rust.
FYI: if you have to wrestle, and force the tank out, it's imperative that you check the filler neck solder weld where it enters the tank because it may have small fractures that will grow over time, or the solder is completely fractured all the way around allowing moisture to enter the tank and rust the interior and the sending unit which, isn't cheap.
The filler neck has no support at the Fuel Door, so leaning on the gas pump handle will stress the solder joint, you may look cool leaning on it with you shades on while pumping gas, but it'll cost $200, or more bucks in the long run.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=294572
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