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1985 Iroc

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Old 05-06-2005 | 03:05 PM
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jasenterprises's Avatar
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Car: 1985 IROC
1985 Iroc

We bought a 1985 IROC for my son, it was running fine, put new tires on it and now it cranks but won't start. We have been told it need a new fuel pump which is in the gas tank. We can't find anyone willing to do it. Can anyone explain how to do it?
Thanks
Old 05-06-2005 | 03:12 PM
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Mcdamit's Avatar
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Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
they can correct me if I am wrong but you should need a new tank.
Old 05-06-2005 | 03:17 PM
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Car: 1985 IROC
1985 IROC

Thanks! We were told we had to cut a hole in the tank and all kinds of stuff. I hope that is what's wrong.

Thanks again.
Old 05-06-2005 | 03:37 PM
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by Mcdamit
they can correct me if I am wrong but you should need a new tank.
You don't need a new tank. Putting in a new pump can be difficult because you usually have to drop the rearend down to do it. I was able to do it by cutting my exhaust and I managed to drop the tank that way. Get a better than stock fuel pump to replace it. Do a search here on the boards to find out how to install the pump. Paying someone will be very expensive.
Old 05-06-2005 | 03:38 PM
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
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Have you tried checking the fuses? There should be two of them I believe. One under the dash and one in the engine bay. You should also check to see if the pump has power thru the ALDL. You also should be able to hear the pump prime itself when you turn the key on but don't start it. Check all these things first before dropping the tank etc. It could save you a lot of money and headaches.

Last edited by CaptPicardsZ28; 05-06-2005 at 03:41 PM.
Old 05-06-2005 | 03:49 PM
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From: Memphis TN
Car: 99 TA---94 toyota p.u.
Engine: LS1----22re
Transmission: T56----5speed
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Its gonna be a beach to replace it.
We had one come in the shop for a fuel pump about 3 months ago. Just take it up to a Firestone they should do it for you, unless you wanna do it yourself. It took like a little while to do though. If you want "directions" on how to do that let me know, but Firestone should do it for you.
Old 05-06-2005 | 04:28 PM
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From: Florida
Car: 1987 Black IROC-Z (SOLD)
Try a few other things before replacing the Fuel Pump. How about the fuel filter or checking the fuel pressure at the FI rails.
You should have a min of 36 PSI there.
Old 05-06-2005 | 04:33 PM
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Car: 1985 IROC
1985 IROC

We replaced everything we could think of except FI rails, what is that?
Thanks
Old 05-06-2005 | 08:17 PM
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Re: 1985 IROC

Originally posted by jasenterprises
We replaced everything we could think of except FI rails, what is that?
Thanks
If you can't hear the hum of the pump when you turn the key on and you checked the fuses then you probably need to change the pump. Why do people replace all kinds of parts before realizing what the problem is? I NEVER replace anything until I have properly diagnosed the problem. Guessing what is wrong is too expensive. Dropping the tank is time consuming, not difficult. Good luck....
Old 05-06-2005 | 09:57 PM
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Car: 1985 IROC
1985 IROC

We replaced most of the stuff because it had been mistreated before we bought it. We need to do a lot to it. It would be nice if it would start though.
Old 05-06-2005 | 10:12 PM
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Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
yeah replacing that would be a pita, but If you want to torch and reweld the gas tank be my guest, i suck at welding, plus i would be more happy just getting a new one due to how much gunk would be in that tank.

Goodluck.
Old 05-07-2005 | 12:52 AM
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From: New York City
Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 355 Tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3.27
Just to be double sure, because it is a pretty hard job replacing the pump. Get a volt meter, or test light disconnect the 3 wire plug directly above the diff, mounted to the body. See if you have voltage coming out of there when cranking. If not...it may not be the pump. It could be the relay, or even the ecm, but its worth a try. I put a pump in my car 3 months after I got it and it didn't fix my no start problem. The ecm got wet from a leaky windshield..there went $100 and about 6 hours.
Old 05-07-2005 | 03:16 AM
  #13  
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From: classified,ohmss
Car: 1982-z-28.1987 sc
Engine: 350 on z-28,305 on sc
Transmission: bw t-10 on z-28,700r4 on sc
if you find the the pump to be faulty do not cut the tank to replace it,that has to be one of the most common hackjobs done to thirdgens,as stated before,removing the tank is more time consuming than difficult,but it's doable and while you're at it you could try and install a 4th gen plastic gas tank.
just my
Old 05-07-2005 | 11:00 AM
  #14  
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From: Houston, Texas
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
You can power the fuel pump with the key off directly from the ALDL diagnostic connector at the bottom edge of the dash to left of the center console.

Connect a jumper wire to a "hot a all times" voltage source, or directly to the battery to the ALDL "G" terminal (lower left pin of connector.) I use my remote start swtich to drain the tank by clipping one end to the battery positive, and the other clipped to a diagnostic jumper in the "G" terminal that looks like a key ( got it at an autoparts store ) with 2 prongs, the "H" slot should be empty - no pin. Disconnect the supply flex hose in the engine bay, and clamp a hose to the hard line that goes to the tank, put the hose into a suitable container, trigger & hold the remoter starter switch until it's empty, well almost empty.

If the pump doesn't run then there's a faulty connection in the circuit, or the pump is bad. A short should blow the 20amp fuse by the battery,

Here's a post at the end with instructions for dropping the tank, and in advance the picture of the hack job is mine.

I wouldn't buy a new tank unless I see rust in the tank or on the sender,( which I did so I replaced the tank $150, and the sender used $60,) or it's it has major dings in it, which crack the sealant and cause it to rust.

FYI: if you have to wrestle, and force the tank out, it's imperative that you check the filler neck solder weld where it enters the tank because it may have small fractures that will grow over time, or the solder is completely fractured all the way around allowing moisture to enter the tank and rust the interior and the sending unit which, isn't cheap.
The filler neck has no support at the Fuel Door, so leaning on the gas pump handle will stress the solder joint, you may look cool leaning on it with you shades on while pumping gas, but it'll cost $200, or more bucks in the long run.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=294572
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