Shaft mount or Stud mount Rockers?
#1
Shaft mount or Stud mount Rockers?
I want to use factory TPI valve covers when I rebuild my motor but I'm wondering if I would have any clearance problems with using shaft mounted roller rockers Vs. stud mounted. I haven't decided which to go with but I have it down to either:
Jesel Shaft Mount Roller Rockers
or
Crower Stud Mount Roller Rockers.
I will be going with a 1.5 ratio for sure though. Will I run into clearance problems with the shaft mounted ones?
Jesel Shaft Mount Roller Rockers
or
Crower Stud Mount Roller Rockers.
I will be going with a 1.5 ratio for sure though. Will I run into clearance problems with the shaft mounted ones?
#2
Supreme Member
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
With stock centerbolt valve covers? Hmmmm..... I really can't imagine you could fit any kind of shaft mount system under a stock centerbolt valve cover. It's hard enough just fitting regular rockers under them!
#5
Supreme Member
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Nashville TN
Posts: 1,141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
Yeah shaft mount won't fit...
If I ever go solid roller w/ high lift, I am gonna run some, but I also have perimeter bolt heads w/ TALL VCs...
If I ever go solid roller w/ high lift, I am gonna run some, but I also have perimeter bolt heads w/ TALL VCs...
#6
TGO Supporter
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
What kind of RPM's/spring rates would you be running/using to begin to warrant the cost of a shaft rocker system anyway? Especially a Jesel.
I'm 99.9% sure that for what you have planned, a Comp Pro Mag setup, 7/16" studs, and a stud girdle would be MORE than sufficient. Probably 1/2 the cost roughly, too.
I'm 99.9% sure that for what you have planned, a Comp Pro Mag setup, 7/16" studs, and a stud girdle would be MORE than sufficient. Probably 1/2 the cost roughly, too.
#7
Here is a quick breakdown of how my mind works:
If you are going to buy a part, buy it once.
That means the best possible. Sure it's overkill for what I'm doing now but what if I want to build an insane destroked 400 in 5 years for road racing and install a manual trans, then I would need that part. Why buy something twice, or more when it comes to a basic reusable part like that.
Another aspect of it is piece of mind knowing that you are running only the best. Part of it is reliability, the other is power. When I dyno I don't want to be thinking "maybe if I had bought this I'd have another 2 HP". All of those parts you cheap out on now might equal up to 30HP or more in the long run.
It looks like in this case though I'll be going with the stud mount Crowers which for what they are, are the best money can buy IMO.
If you are going to buy a part, buy it once.
That means the best possible. Sure it's overkill for what I'm doing now but what if I want to build an insane destroked 400 in 5 years for road racing and install a manual trans, then I would need that part. Why buy something twice, or more when it comes to a basic reusable part like that.
Another aspect of it is piece of mind knowing that you are running only the best. Part of it is reliability, the other is power. When I dyno I don't want to be thinking "maybe if I had bought this I'd have another 2 HP". All of those parts you cheap out on now might equal up to 30HP or more in the long run.
It looks like in this case though I'll be going with the stud mount Crowers which for what they are, are the best money can buy IMO.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 672
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 GTA Nighthawk
Engine: 389 CID TPI
Transmission: TCI 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.23
5 years from now you'll be wanting to drop in a Gen III or Gen IV engine if you get really serious and then you'll regret wasting your money on a part that gained you...............nothing!
Though I tend to buy the best quality product I can, I also realize that I don't need a complete forged bottom end in a bow-tie block. I don't need a shaft mounted rocker system or girdle. I don't need O-Ringed heads or lots of other expensive stuff that though nice and good for bench racing won't make my car any faster.
With the direction technology is going if you really want to build a killer motor in 5 years then the current small block you have will be nothing but a boat anchor.
Not trying to discourage you from buying what you want, just trying to give you a different perspective on it.
Though I tend to buy the best quality product I can, I also realize that I don't need a complete forged bottom end in a bow-tie block. I don't need a shaft mounted rocker system or girdle. I don't need O-Ringed heads or lots of other expensive stuff that though nice and good for bench racing won't make my car any faster.
With the direction technology is going if you really want to build a killer motor in 5 years then the current small block you have will be nothing but a boat anchor.
Not trying to discourage you from buying what you want, just trying to give you a different perspective on it.
#9
I see your point however I'm the kind of person who plans on keeping a car that came with an SBC, SBC. If I want Gen IV motor, I'll buy a GTO with an LS7 in a few years. I mean why have a fantastic engine in a car that still rides rough and has tiny squeeks and rattles everywhere. Buy a new car and get better everything. I know looks is important but it would be 15 years until I saw myself "upgrading" my GTA in every way to then new car standards any by then I'll buy another Firebird to do that too and more than likely restore my GTA or keep it somewhat the same.
I don't think Crower stud mounts are over the top though and considering I'll be running over 20lbs of boost on my new engine, I'll be needing top notch stuff...
I don't think Crower stud mounts are over the top though and considering I'll be running over 20lbs of boost on my new engine, I'll be needing top notch stuff...
#10
TGO Supporter
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
What does boost have to do with the rpm's/spring rates? Either way, you still control the rpm's.
But, if you truly want to run the top notch stuff, why are you even considering parts for centerbolt heads? You should be looking at SB2.2 heads.
But, if you truly want to run the top notch stuff, why are you even considering parts for centerbolt heads? You should be looking at SB2.2 heads.
#11
Originally posted by Stekman
You should be looking at SB2.2 heads.
You should be looking at SB2.2 heads.
I mentioned boost because 89Warbird mentioned stuff like forged bottom ends and o-ringed blocks, which is along the lines of what I do need. I know it has nothing to do with RPM's, that's why I used the road racing example in my previous post to site and example of RPM's...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
IROCZDAVE (88-L98)
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
0
09-02-2015 08:49 AM
IROCZDAVE (88-L98)
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
0
09-02-2015 08:43 AM