View Poll Results: Most cost efficient performing intake for 400HP 383.
Super Ram
10
22.22%
Stealth Ram
14
31.11%
Mini Ram
11
24.44%
LT1 Intake
7
15.56%
Ported and Siamesed stock TPI
1
2.22%
Carb
2
4.44%
Other
0
0%
Voters: 45. You may not vote on this poll
Which intake for 383?
#1
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Which intake for 383?
I am trying to decide on the most cost effiecient yet good performing intake for the 383 that I am going to be installing. The engine had 405HP and 445TQ on the engine dyno. I would like to stay with EFI rather than Carb but if it works better and is cheaper I will. If anyone could give me some ballpark figure for these different intakes that would be nice too.
#2
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
I'd honestly go with the LT1 intake or Stealth Ram. Best bang for the buck and I like EFI over carbs. Can't go wrong with either. With that cam and cubes, LT1 *may* be a better choice.
#4
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 2,441
Likes: 1
From: sweden
Car: GTA -89
Engine: Blown 415"
Transmission: 4L80E
Axle/Gears: Strange 12-bolt
Depending on combo and where you want the powerband to be...
In the right combo all intakes can make good power at diffrent rpm, just decide where you want it to be and then buy intake/cam/heads for it...
Also consider emission, some intakes dont have EGR....
/N.
In the right combo all intakes can make good power at diffrent rpm, just decide where you want it to be and then buy intake/cam/heads for it...
Also consider emission, some intakes dont have EGR....
/N.
#5
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Well the engines HP was 405 at 4800 RPM but is pretty flatlined from around 3800 and up. The same for the TQ. The cam that it has is a 234/244 114LSA. I'm not sure about the lift. It has Dart heads. Does the stealth have EGR?
#7
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I am pretty sure that the heads are 62cc with 2.02/1.94 three way valves.
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#10
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,205
Likes: 0
From: Dallas, TX area
Car: 91 Formula WS6 (Black, T-Tops)
Engine: 383 MiniRam (529 HP, 519 TQ - DD2K)
Transmission: Built '97 T56, Pro 5.0, CF-DF
Axle/Gears: 4.11 posi Ford 9"
Just realize the LT1, TPI, and SuperRam are the ONLY ones that are certified for emissions. If you have a visual check the others could cause you to fail and then you'd have to replace them.
#11
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 575
Likes: 0
From: MI
Car: I
Engine: Taunt
Transmission: Mustangs
If you are going to stick with your 700-R4, then I would say you'd be best off with the widest powerband you can get, ie. the super ram. I feel that the other reasonable options (sorry but I am not even considering the LTR setup) are better suited for a manual tranny, ie the mini/stealth/lt1. John lingenfelter has a good section expaining the theory behind this opinion in his book.
#13
Originally posted by BuckeyeROC
I'd honestly go with the LT1 intake or Stealth Ram. Best bang for the buck and I like EFI over carbs. Can't go wrong with either. With that cam and cubes, LT1 *may* be a better choice.
I'd honestly go with the LT1 intake or Stealth Ram. Best bang for the buck and I like EFI over carbs. Can't go wrong with either. With that cam and cubes, LT1 *may* be a better choice.
#14
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 0
From: Ohio, USA
Car: 2015 Camaro Z/28 & 2013 Super Bee
Engine: LS7 and 392 HEMI
Originally posted by Dr G
BuckeyeROC:- You say that, yet you ran absolutely fantastic times in your 355cid with AFR heads and with SuperRam on top. Does the price of it, or the installation hassles now put you off SuperRam? Just curious.
BuckeyeROC:- You say that, yet you ran absolutely fantastic times in your 355cid with AFR heads and with SuperRam on top. Does the price of it, or the installation hassles now put you off SuperRam? Just curious.
As you can see in my sig, I'm going the complete opposite direction with my LS1. It's now my weekend car. The cam is 243/249 .608"/.613" 110 LSA and I'll be shifting at 7000 rpm. When the 4.10 10 bolt bites it, I'll probably end up w/ a spooled rearend w/ 4.30's or 4.56's. MUCH different from the IROC's combo. BUT, it should also run solid 10's N/A once I get some AFR 225's and do a manifold swap.
Streetability, drivability, etc. differs for everyone and differs between daily drivers and weekend/track cars. And once you run certain times for awhile, they start to seem slow to you and you want more. That's all. Nothing wrong with the combo I had, just got old to me. But it was very effective. Knowing what I know now, I would go with a bigger cam and an LT1 intake (which wasn't even an option at the time the motor was built).
Last edited by BuckeyeROC; 07-08-2004 at 09:22 PM.
#15
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,195
Likes: 0
From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Are there any modifications that need to be done for the stealthram to bolt up to a set up Dart Iron Eagle heads? What about the TV detent cable? Also, I am thinking that I will have to use SVO 36lb injectors since the HP should be pushing around 400-450. Anyone using 36lb injectors? One more question. Will I have any problems with my MAF sensor with the Stealth Ram or the Super Ram? Just worried that it may restrict flow.
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