I can get a free set of 1.6 rockers from my buddy.

Currently i have a bone stock peanut cammed 305. Is it worth it to throw these on since they are free?

How much morelift will they provide?

Any input would be great. thanks

 

they will definitely help.

take your current lift, divide by 1.5 then multiply by 1.6 for your new lift.

 

Like Travis said, the gains are definitly worth it. The lift is the big issue. And with slow ramp rates and mild profiles such as the peanut cam, the "added" duration is actually very decent, as far as simple rockers are concerned.

 

thanks for the replies guys, i guess i will go ahead with it.

 

Of course you do realize that one mod change always leads to another...and another...its like LAYS potato chips. Nobody can eat just one!!

 

Make sure your spings can handle the added lift the rockers will make.. If you have .500 lift now you will have .533 so you will add .033 lift.

 

If you read the post all the way through, you will notice he said he has the peanut cam, which is no where near .500 lift.

 

.350 and .384 to start(if im looking at the right cam). .373 and .409 after. Are they self aligning, or roller/ roller tips??

 

He said his cam is stock... his springs should be able to handle the lift just fine.
Like the previous poster said, make sure the rockers are self-aligning or they are gonna require guideplates and hardened pushrods.

edit: fruity one beat me to the lift part... however the second part still applies.

 

If its the 91 305 in his sig, he has self aligning. The best budget piece that isn't aluminum would be the Magnum rocker arm by Comp Cams. It's a roller tip, not full trunion roller. It is steel so it has better fatigue resistance than aluminum.

They do offer 1.6 S/A versions.

 

The rockers are 1.6 roller tip, self aligning. They are on my car right now.

We're doing a cam/heads swap on my L98 and with the 1.6rr's I'll have too much lift. So I am going to 1.5 rockers. Just a set of stock ones for now, I don't have the cash for a nice set.

BTW, I got them for like $50 with the engine rebuild, I figured it was worth it. Said engine rebuild has a mere 2,000 miles on it. I bought it when I didn't know a thing about casting numbers. Had the engine balanced and blue printed. Too bad the "engine vin code 8" engine they sold came with TBI 193 swirl port heads, and a crappy TBI cam with .384/.395" lift w/1.5r, and 190/195 duration @ .050. On a 117lsa I think.

It sucks, REALLY bad. But now I've got a LPE 211/219 cam, ported L98 with upgraded valve train to handle the lift, ported intake + AS&M SS runners, and hooker 2055's headers to go with the flowmaster(ugh!) 3" cat-back.

 

HEY WHATS UP GUYS IM NEW ON HERE AS WELL AS A NEW THIRD GEN OWNER WELL MY QUESTION IS CA I PUT A CAM INTO MY STOCK 305 TPI IF SO WHICH CAM AND HOW BIG?. PLEASE I NEED HELP THANX

 

First things first, caps are annoying as hell. Please turn them off as it makes you look like you are shouting.

As for your camshaft, how prepared are you to do some MAJOR work? The intake must come off, as well as the water pump, timing cover, and you must drop the oil pan a bit so you don't tear the seal. The Radiator, A/C Condensor also have to come out as well. You may need a new harmonic balancer, or you'll need to remark the old one.

For a camshaft I wouldn't exceed 210 duration @ .050", and I would stay greater than 114* Lobe seperation. Nor would I exceed .475" lift with the stock valve train.

 

If you don't have enough experience turning wrenches, don't put a cam in the car. You 'll need the cam/springs/retainers at the very least, and new valve seals are a good idea, and so is a new timing set. Don't forget all of the gasket, plenty of time, and a lot of patience. You're gonna want to stay below .480 lift and around 220 duration on a 112-114 with TPI. Keep in mind that a cam will not yield and decent gains without the bolt-ons to support it.

IMO you should start with the free mods, then do the bolt ons then decide which way you want to go.