Due to hood clearance issues, a HSR will not fit. I have been thinking about an LT-1 Intake because I have one readily available minus Mr. Millican's work which would have to be done..

How many people here have done it and are satisfied? Ecstatic?

And how many of you guys have had problems?

I wanna hear all the good, AND all the bad so I can make an informed decision! Thanks!

 

I've been watching this subject for months.

I've seen people just rave about how great it works, and I've seen people who continually have problems.

I'm close to doing it, but not quite convinced.

The remote stat thing is kinda un-American too.

 

S-plane Lucy

 

The LT1 intake requires a remote thermostat, doesn't it?

...I was kidding about the "un-American" thing, I just think it's kinda weird!

 

If you have a better idea on how to get the coolant back to the radiator from the heads and be temp controlled then i'm all ears. Tell me your ideas.

No, an engine doesn't require a thermostat to run. You could run a restrictor plate instead (big washer with a hole in it). You will still need hoses from the heads to radiator though.

 

I wasn't commenting on any type or workmanship by anyone. I was just light-heartedly kidding about the different set-up. Kinda like how some traditional carb guys don't like fuel injecton.

There's was no offence intended to anyone, I apologize if that's how it came across.

...I've been considering the LT1 intake for a while myself.

 

I know, I was just throwing out that I was open to new ideas.

 

Now that mine is done, I love my new intake. John is a great guy to work with. He answers any questions promptly, and ships items very quickly. I can feel a difference in my performance via the "butt-dyno". Plus, it's a lot cheaper than an aftermarket setup too.

 

the tq wrench i ordered from ebay doesn't work, so i can't tell you how it works.

but i can tell you it sure does look pretty!

 

That's why I buy my tools like that NEW from a dealer. Mine came with a calibration certificate. But I bet that I spent a lot more too.

 

I've heard about a few intakes leaking coolant into the oil.. that's really my biggest concern, can anyone shed some light on that?

My intake will have been ported before I send it to John so i'd be doubly screwed if that happens

 

Im going on my 3rd year with mine absoultly no problems have had it off and on several time to do mods to motor no leaks no probs

 

What's the deal with the actual intake being a little small for some heads, and requiring additional material to be welded on?

What are some popular heads that don't require this procedure?

 

The LT1 intake is a little small for Dart II heads. It won't completely cover their extreamly tall water ports without a bead of aluminum welded on. We're only talking less then 1/8" but still would be a MAJOR leak if not addressed.

 

I have only heard of ONE customer having coolant leak into the oil in the 3 years I've been converting the LT1 intake. I can't explain what happened or why it happened. He never did return the intake though even though I offered to take it back (less 20% refurb fee since he dremeled the intake).

 

While converting my intake to the engine on the stand, the only way I can imagine someone could get an oil/water mix is to not get the bolt holes drilled correctly. If one (or a few) holes aren't drilled out enough (especially on pre '86 heads where the angle is different), when you would tighten the manifold bolts down the intake gets pulled to one side and can cause a huge leak on the lower edge of the water passage. At least that's what I saw when my holes weren't quite finished.

The bolt holes have to be large enough and angled correctly so that the intake will seat up without cocking itself to one side or the other. This problem would just be extra tough without the added aluminum over the coolant ports as a buffer.

 

Will it work for ported 882 heads?

 

I have mine installed and am almost ready to fire it up. I'll then be able to report on the success of it. It sure does look good on the engine though and John is great to work with. He answers any and all questions in super quick fashion.

 

Ported 882's. Been there, Done that. Biggggg Mistake!!!!

The 882 castings are very thin having 2 EGR passageways per cylinder and are easily PRONE to CRACKING. I'm hard headed at times and had to learn this lesson the hard way myself. In the long run, it's cheeper to bolt on aftermarket then having to tear down the block and rebuild it again. Mine's in my shop at school waiting for me to put it back together this fall. I could have bolted a set of AFR heads on in the first place and came out money ahead in the long run.

Don't get me wrong, I'm just trying to keep you from making the same mistake as I did. It's your money, but when its all said and done I've lost about a grand in time, money & labor.

Good Luck Bill

 

I'm going to be using the stock LT1 water pump, upgrading it to an electric pump maaking a blocking plate for the rear of the pump.

 

Pics? Drawings? I'd like to see how this is supposed to work.

Thanks,

 

Forgive me if this has been addressed before, but how much does this service cost, and can I use the stock throttle body (bored out though) from a non-LT1 motor? Also, this WILL work on a MAF setup since the LT1 is a MAF engine, correct? If I were to acquire an LT1 intake and have this done, would I need to modify any other parts besides cam/exhaust?

EDIT: Just found the price list on the site So, if I get the intake, I can send it to him for $200 to get it done, and then I would also need the fuel rails and t-stat housing? Or can I use stock LT1 fuel rails? Basically, I'm looking for the total cost of the minimal components (i.e. no painting, etc.).

 

I may be willing to test this out on my stock 305 TPI. I'm planning on dropping a 350 in next year, so it will eventually get used to its full potential.

 

You re-use the TPI throttle body. The LT1 tb has a different TPS connector. Also, it will work on MAF cars. Mine is. I believe that total cost after I sold my TPI unit and Hypertech PROM, was $228 for the whole thing.

 

Well, I decided to have the intake I bought shipped directly to John to have the work done instead of me having to have it shipped here and then me ship it to John. It should have left for his house today I'm also picking up some fuel rails from someone on CamaroZ28.com. If all goes as planned, this should be swapped in within 2 weeks, and I'll try to get some dyno results before/after. The only other mod would be my 3" cat-back taht I'll be getting on this week if all goes to plan. I'll also be going from a stock-replacement (STP) paper filter to a K&N filter with some sort of new cold air induction. Besides that though, it's going to be stock and the intake will be the only thing that changes. As I said I'll try to get some dyno testings as well as some track times, but since I'd be going different days, the track results may not be so consistent. Anyways, two weeks and we should have some hard data on what this intake will do for a stock 305. I can't wait til I'll be able to rev to 6k RPM

 

you could have just cut the hood bracing in the middle like all of us other firebird/TA owners... my hood is still nice and stable and the hsr fits right under it.

 

you're gonna rev a stock 305 to 6k? i'd be getting ready to replace stuff... you've heard of valve float before right?

 

Gives me all the more reason to drop in that 10:1 350ci sitting in my uncle's garage sooner Nevertheless, I thought these engines could handle up to 6300rpm stock. Then again maybe that was for the L98, but do the L98 and LB9 use different valvetrains?

 

I don't know if they use different valvetrains or not. I'd imagine the L98 would have little bigger parts. From what i've been told, read and seen any roller setup will start getting valve float at 5800 or so rpm. Sure i've seen a few people run to 6500 rpm with stock pushrods and rockers. But I also saw my engine go to **** last summer when I revved mine to 6000 and bent 1 pushrod, bent a valve, broke a valve spring. But hey if you have a spare engine ready to go in when that engine goes out, run it till it breaks.

 

Hmmm...maybe I'll be content with 5500RPM I really didn't know that at all. The 350ci still needs some work, but its got the bottom end complete forged bottom end. All she needs is a cam and heads (will probably use the ones I have on my 305..just self-port them and 1.6rr and get a 3-angle valve job). Thanks for the heads up info though..I'd like to not install that 350ci until this winter.

 

you should do some research about putting 305 heads on a 350 motor. I saw something about how it raises compression but there is something that makes it not worth doing. I'd research on that before you do it this winter. There are rev kits to help you rev above 6000 rpm. check out the airflow research website, they sell a rev kit for around 185 bucks. An all forged bottom end is definitely a plus. Good luck with everything.

 

305 heads would raise the compression, but the valves are smaller than a 350 head, so they don't flow quite as well.
350 TPI heads are a good candidate for porting though, and too expensive, as everyone seems to be going Vortec.

*EDIT*
If you want to raise compression, you can go with a few options:
1: Have the block decked
2: Have the heads decked
3: Use thinner head gaskets
This is also providing that you don't want to change the pistons

 

Back to the topic of the thread, I haven't had any problem with mine besides blowing the silicon out of the back of my intake while my PCV hose was kinked a little bit. Since then, I started running the PCV on the vavle cover like stock w/o any problems. Now if I can just figure out if I'm getting false knock and if its not false knock, why I'm getting knock on a 9.4 to 1 motor with so little timing.

 

You may only have 9.4 to 1, but you do know that camshaft effectively "boosts" compression right?

 

Hmmm, I had a batch of bad gas once, that caused alot of havoc with my old engine. I just added a bottle of 104+ and it was okay.

 

The one I had on my Formula was a owner made job and was done fairly well but I think he got the dist base height and placement slightly off. I ate through a bronze dist gear and then a melonized one. I put a stock tpi intake on and show no signs of dist gear wear. I am going to rework the dist base and try it again.

I would highly recomend buying from John or having him do yours, he has been helping me with some questions and he didn't even do my intake, a true gentleman.