formula_novice

iTrader: (1)

My car has had a code 32 for quite a while now...
It is idling poorly when starting cold.
I looked up code 32 and found that, besides EGR & ECU, it could be a Barometric Pressure (BARO) sensor. I am not firmiliar with this sensor. Can anyone tell me where it is located and if it is common for it to go bad?

Any info is appreciated.
Thank you.

Guest

Its located on cars that didnt have a TPI.

Sounds like an EGR issue. Make sure the solenoid is hooked up and works.

formula_novice

iTrader: (1)

I replaced the solenoid a few months back.
Is there an easy way to test it to see if it is working?

Also, my boss suggested that maybe my charcoal cannister was not working correctly (clogging). Is this possible?
I know it has a sensor plugin at the top of it.

Thanks again.

Cruzin Kaz

Does it only seem to run rough at idle for the most part?? If this is a fairly high mile engine the EGR may be stuck wilde opne causing it to idle very rough, and even stall here and there.

Grumpy

TPI doesn't use it.
Some of the CCC systems did.
I don't see any mention of it in my diagnostic notes, FWIW.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

if you car still is MAF, as Grumpy said, then you don't have BARO.
on S/D systems the BARO reading is taken from the MAP sensor at key on before the starter is engaged & at WOT.

pull the vacuum fitting off the egr soleniod & with the engine running see if you have vacuum on 1 side of it, if you do,then with piece of hose put vacuum to the other side of the fitting, the engine should start running bad or maybe die. if there is little or no change then you have a problem with your egr valve or the ports in the intake are clogged up.
the idle problem could very well be related to the code 32 problem if the egr valve is sticking open any at all.


that connector on your charcoal canister is the purge solenoid.

formula_novice

iTrader: (1)

Thank you, DENN_SHAH, for the troubleshooting steps! I will try to do that soon.

Yes my car does hava a MAF sensor.
It is a high mileage engine (151k)... but I recently replaced the EGR solenoid (autozone part), Valve (GM part), and Harness (GM part). I did not replace the screw-in wire that connects the valve to the ECU. Does this part go bad?

To clarify what my engine is doing...
(On a cold start only) when I turn the key, the engine fires up.
The tach jumps (normal) and then drops (normal). However, when it drops, it "sputters" like it wants to die for a minute or so (usually around 500rpm) and then goes up to the normal 1000rpm high idle. It actually died on me when I went down the highway the other day with no warning... I had the radio up - went to turn - no power steering. Turned the radio down - motor dead

However, once I normally get going, it seems to be ok after a few seconds. FYI... the last things replaced were the Fuel Pump and the Spark Plug Wires (added the MSD's in sig).

I hope this hasn't gotten too long and put anyone to sleep

Thanks again for any info.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

i can't remeber right now if it is a switch or a temp sensor, but according to my book the screw-in wire is a switch, (they do go out) if the ecm reads that it is closed or open at the wrong time then it will kick a code 32. someone else may post as which it really is. to see what it is telling the ecm you need a scanner.
on the cold start/run problem, that kind of sounds like dirty injectors or intake vavle deposits, or dirty throttle plates/IAC.

formula_novice

iTrader: (1)

dirty throttle plates?

By throttle plates, do you mean the "butterflies" in the throttle body?

If so, how can these cause the motor to run bad?

Thanks!

tom3

My Camaro does the same thing when cold, runs fine when warm except it tends to dead miss when at 220 and the fans are ready to come on. I've narrowed it down to the injectors, and the 89s are noted for this problem. I will be changing them in the next couple weeks so watch for a post in this section.