So I'm standing over this car. It appears to have everything. What do I have with me, and what is the most efficient way to take it off and home. I need to take the whole thing so I can convert from Q-jet to TPI.

Thanks,
Jason

 

Don't know what you have with you. Tools, you need tools. Need T-40 and T-45 IIRC, various wrenches, screwdrivers etc. and some patience. Are you asking for detailed instructions to remove the entire FI set-up? You really should walk in there with a haynes, chiltons or sevice manual.

 

Yeah that's basically what I'm askin. I have a Haynes. I want to minimize the amount of dismantling that I have to do so I don't lose pieces.

What is a T-45 or T-40?

Jason

 

Those are the size of the special star-shaped allen like wrenches you'll need to remove the intake and runners (they don't use hex head bolts). Be sure to take the entire wiring harness and computer from the computer to the sensors on the motor. Get the sensors and computer as well.

Big Job, but DO-ABLE. Good Luck!!!


- Vern

 

T-45 or whatever number is a TORX (star shaped)

 

Are there any other special tools that I need? Is it obvious how to take it off once I get started?

 

It's been so long since I've used stock parts, I can't remember if you can pull the plenum and runners together on a stock set-up. On mine I have to disassemble everything to get down to the baseplate. If I were you I'd plan on taking it completely apart. Give yourself 2 or 3 hours and you should be good. Well maybe more, depends on how mechanically inclined you are I guess.

 

I would say he needs 2-3 hours to get the intake itself off, along with the runners, plenum, tb, distributor, fuel rails etc. Then the rest of the sensors and the harness will probably be about another hour... so maybe 3-4 hours. Overall you don't need that many tools, the TORX bit (dunno what size, can't remember) 1/2" wrench, 9/16" wrench, 10mm wrench, along with deep and shallow sockets of the same sizes. ummmmm (trying to remember what else...) You'll need a wrench for the Knock Sensor, dunno what size that is... and you'll need a socket for pulling all the small bolts on the dash pannels to get to the computer (9/32?)

It won't be that hard of a job, I pulled mine off without a book and put it all back together when I replaced my intake, didn't have any problems.

 

Flare nut wrenches for the fuel lines (unless you have a bolt cutter ). Torx bits, (whatever these guys are recommending is probably correct, but I just went out and bought a $10 set from the local parts store.) breaker bar and socket set. Also take a box of Glad Lok freezer bags (the kind that you can write on, or bring masking tape) and a couple Sharpie permanent markers (for all the different bolts). KEEP AND LABEL ALL THE SMALL STUFF!!! It makes things so much easier later on.

Something to clean your hands is nice if the yard doesn't give you access to a sink.

 

ok since i recetly did this.
You will need a 10mm socket and wrench, 9/16 wrench and socket 1/2" and 5/8" you will also need a flat blade screw driver, t-6or 10, t-40, and t-45 torx, and extension for your wratchet, a tourque wrench or something to extend the handle(breaker bar) cause some of those bolts will be a b!tch to get out.
The order of things,
1. Remove bolts that hold the plenum to the runners, remove the
plenum/throttle body.
2.REmove the runner bolts that hold the runners to the intake manifold. remove the runners.
3. remove the 12 bolts holding the manifold on, remove manifold, you may have to pry it off. If this thing is sitting in a yard don't worry about snagging the knock sensor as you'll need to get under the car for that, and well yards aren't the best place to be laying on the ground.
The computer stuff I don't know about cause i've never taken one out.

That is the basic sequence of steps, obviously you will need to disconnect all the vacuum lines and wires. If the injectors are stil plugged in, make sure you mark what order they go it. all the other plugs i wouldn't waste time on labeling cause they will only fit on one thing.

Realistically you should be able to all of this in 2hrs if you don't stop for a beer or smoke break.

 

Just a clarification here, DO NOT, use a torque wrench to break anything free. They are not made for this purpose.

 

2a. remove distributor?

 

You guys are super help!!

Does the harnes itself go through the firewall, or are there connections that mate there?

I have the flared wrenches already. I have to get the the Torx drives.

I saw them use a tractor to turn a car on its side so I shouldn't have to get under the car in the dirt (and grass, and weeds, and glass, and oil, etc. )

On another site they indicated that I need the gas tank and fuel pumps. The one in my car is supposedly relatively new, but won't work with the fuel injection? Should I get the fuel lines too?

Besides the stuff on top of the engine what else is neccesary? Are there more than one computer? Should I get the speedo unit?

Thanks,
Jason

 

Heck Jason, take everything you can get--speedo(if you like it), sway bars, wheels(if they're still there), computer, any performance items still there! It's exciting when you strike gold at a junkyard, and it doesn't happen often! So plan to spend the day.

And unless you plan to buy new heads and cam, I'd grab those too. They'll be better than the ones on your LG4, and you'll already know the combination works. Port and polish the heads before you reinstall them, and they'll be even better.

I'm not sure I'd take any sensors though, unless it's just for reference. I'd buy all new ones--but that's probably just me, lol.

Have a fun day--and don't forget the sunscreen!!!

Edit: Saturday at a junkyard??? Go EARLY to stake your claim!!!

 

Good LORD!!!

I might as well buy the heap and trailer it back on a flatbed! (If only my wife would go for it)

I wonder what I could get it from him for...

Jason

 

rubber mallot, if the plenum has never been removed, those gaskets are going to stick.

 

what year car is is from? If an 89 or newer you'll need the passkey module, way up in the top of the dash in front of the heat ducting. Engine wiring is down the passenger side then through the side panel, take out plastic splash shield under the fender to access it. Pretty tough job to get it all, a carb is not that bad - in my opinion. The TPI sure looks good though.

 

I wouldn't bother with the heads just take the intake stuff. Junkyards will pull a motor if it is working, so something is wrong with that engine, just be fore warned

 

I'm not oppsed to a carb, it's just that the TPI would have been a nice bridge while I piece together a 383.

This sounds like much too long in the junkyard, and I get the feeling that once the guy sees all the pieces he's goon dishonor the price he gave me.

 

Go for it, it really isn't as big a deal as you think it is. Just make sure you put all the bolts in zip lock bags and label where they came from.

plus you can get the added benifit of learning where all this stuff is and not worry about screwing up because it's not your car.

 

dont make the mistake i did when the manual says remove the air pump and rocker arm covers (valve covers) to get to the inside manifold bolts that are hidden....there are hidden bolts on the very bottom of the runner...in the middle that you have to remove them too....so if they wont come free with a little budge your missin a bolt...get big big extensions...its a simple task once youve done it....if your goin to a 383 its not worth the time or money puttin into it.

 

I just had visions of turbo-charging dancing in my head. Since I've never even driven a 400hp car before I guess I can "practice" on a well tuned carb'ed 383.

Thanks
Jason.