Smog pump actuator(pic inside ladies...)
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Smog pump actuator(pic inside ladies...)
Does anyone know if these wires actuate a solenoid or anything insode or are they just sensors? Im going to remove this box and and everyhtting connected to it but keep the smog pump and run a single hose from the pump to my cat just for being safe.
But I want to knwo what these wires connect to and if it will throw a code.
Thanks!
But I want to knwo what these wires connect to and if it will throw a code.
Thanks!
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Can I get rid of that coolant router too?
it would be nice to get some new hoses and clean it all up. I see there is a line for vacumn maybe connected on it, what is that for?
Thanks!
it would be nice to get some new hoses and clean it all up. I see there is a line for vacumn maybe connected on it, what is that for?
Thanks!
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Car: 89 Formula L98 power
Engine: '96 subaru, opposed 4banger
Transmission: TH700R4, subaru 4WD
Axle/Gears: 3.27, just works
underneath that plastic covers, lies two solenoids, that are controlled by the ecm, that divert air to the cat, and air injection. Read a shop manual for the car, about how it diverts the air and when. If you remove them, there shouldn't be a problem, because the computer doesn't know if they are working or not, theres no sender to tell them if they're working. Thats probably what I'll be doing on my 89 formula350.
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by MdFormula350
i would keep the coolant diverter vavle, maybe just relocate it.
basically when u turn heat on thats when it becomes in use i think.
i would keep the coolant diverter vavle, maybe just relocate it.
basically when u turn heat on thats when it becomes in use i think.
Is that what you did MD?
#7
Well, if you removed the AC than the heater valve is useless. It stops the hot coolant from circulating through the heater core while the AC is on. Mine is gone and my heat works just fine
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by 92TRANSAMWS6
Well, if you removed the AC than the heater valve is useless. It stops the hot coolant from circulating through the heater core while the AC is on. Mine is gone and my heat works just fine
Well, if you removed the AC than the heater valve is useless. It stops the hot coolant from circulating through the heater core while the AC is on. Mine is gone and my heat works just fine
How would I route the hoses?
I would love to get rid of that stupid black plastic router....Im pretty much doing what MDformula350 has done and I want that thing gone!!
#9
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i still like to just use the blower on the heater box to blow outside air without heat so i am keeping the coolant diverter at least i think that has something to do with it. either way it doesnt bother me to much.
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Car: 94 Corvette
Engine: LT-1
Transmission: Freakin Automatic---For Now
If you want to be able to use the fresh air vent, for cool air flow in the summer, you'd better leave the heater valve on there. Your heat will work just fine, you just won't be able to turn it off. That valve by-passes the heater core for ANY setting where the temp slider is in cool.
#12
Originally posted by SpeedJunkie
How would I route the hoses?
How would I route the hoses?
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Car: 94 Corvette
Engine: LT-1
Transmission: Freakin Automatic---For Now
I don't have t-tops, damnit. I like to run the fresh air vent at night during the summer when it's raining. My car doesn't have rain gutters on it either, and with the side window open enough to let in any air, I get wet. I'd be willing to bet that you don't cruise around without your tops out while it raining. Then what do you do? Huh? Huh? I'm just kidding.
I tried to keep all that crap when I did the serpentine conversion this last week and I almost ditched all of it. Just keeping the diverter valve cost me about $25 and close to two hours of time. It's all hooked up and working great though.
I'm now working on a throttle body bypass, that is switched. That way, when it's cold as hell (but the roads are clear), I can open it up, and when it's nice out, I can close it. I'm going to do it so that the valve is concealed and the control is hidden as well. I had it bypassed, but on Christmas, it wouldn't run right on the highway. I hooked it all back up at my friends house, and it ran great on the way home. I love how well it runs in the summer, with the throttle body bypassed, just not in the winter.
I tried to keep all that crap when I did the serpentine conversion this last week and I almost ditched all of it. Just keeping the diverter valve cost me about $25 and close to two hours of time. It's all hooked up and working great though.
I'm now working on a throttle body bypass, that is switched. That way, when it's cold as hell (but the roads are clear), I can open it up, and when it's nice out, I can close it. I'm going to do it so that the valve is concealed and the control is hidden as well. I had it bypassed, but on Christmas, it wouldn't run right on the highway. I hooked it all back up at my friends house, and it ran great on the way home. I love how well it runs in the summer, with the throttle body bypassed, just not in the winter.
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Car: 1987 Camaro Z-28
Engine: 6.3L Victor EFI
Transmission: Tremec TKO 600
Axle/Gears: Moser 9"/4.11 Trac-Lok
I ditched the AC as well. I left the heater control valve connected, just re-routed the hosed & mounted it to the inner fender. BTW my heat works great too & I can also turn it off in the summertime.
#15
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it should be noted that that heater diverter valve was put into use in 87. my 86 does not have it and is much cleaner setup, but i am assuming there must be a vaccum solenoid under the dash somewhere to stop coolant flow. if you really wanna get rid of the ugly valve, get the heater hoses and stuff of an 85 or 86 TPI car and you will be set.
#16
pic
The long hose over the valve cover is only temporary. I took out the AC in the summer and didn't get a new heater box til winter and needed to get the heat working quickly.
The long hose over the valve cover is only temporary. I took out the AC in the summer and didn't get a new heater box til winter and needed to get the heat working quickly.
Last edited by 92TRANSAMWS6; 03-01-2004 at 04:04 PM.
#17
Originally posted by GTA-SPD
I don't have t-tops, damnit. I like to run the fresh air vent at night during the summer when it's raining. My car doesn't have rain gutters on it either, and with the side window open enough to let in any air, I get wet. I'd be willing to bet that you don't cruise around without your tops out while it raining. Then what do you do? Huh? Huh? I'm just kidding.
I don't have t-tops, damnit. I like to run the fresh air vent at night during the summer when it's raining. My car doesn't have rain gutters on it either, and with the side window open enough to let in any air, I get wet. I'd be willing to bet that you don't cruise around without your tops out while it raining. Then what do you do? Huh? Huh? I'm just kidding.
I'll just bypass the core totally if it becomes aproblem in the summer
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Well I quess ill keep the valve cause Ive been in a car without one working (now that I know how it works) Ill probaly keep it how it is. At least all the ac stuff and air tubes will be gone!
#19
Thanks for the link to the pic, 92TAWS6.
Pretty much what I'm looking to do, except I'm trying to keep everything off the valve covers. My 87 still has the v-belt setup, so the alt is on that side. Looks like all I'll have to do is figure out how to get the hose around that, since I'm going to run them down the inner fender to the firewall. And the return line I'm connecting to the crossover at the bottom (where it originally went).
FYI, for all those that concerned about shutting off flow to the core during the summer, why not just install a manual valve in the input line?
Pretty much what I'm looking to do, except I'm trying to keep everything off the valve covers. My 87 still has the v-belt setup, so the alt is on that side. Looks like all I'll have to do is figure out how to get the hose around that, since I'm going to run them down the inner fender to the firewall. And the return line I'm connecting to the crossover at the bottom (where it originally went).
FYI, for all those that concerned about shutting off flow to the core during the summer, why not just install a manual valve in the input line?
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Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Eric 97 Z28
FYI, for all those that concerned about shutting off flow to the core during the summer, why not just install a manual valve in the input line?
FYI, for all those that concerned about shutting off flow to the core during the summer, why not just install a manual valve in the input line?
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