Fuel pump groaning
#1
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Fuel pump groaning
I have a few questions. I just swapped in a TPI from TBI and as I expected, the engine won't start. I'm thinking now I should've left the TBI in if I knew it was going to be like this. The fuel pump primes when I turn on the ignition. The fuel pressure gauge goes up to around 20 psi since there was no fuel in the line. Is that right? I crank the engine but it won't start. I turn the ignition off and turn it back on and the fuel pump primes again. The fuel pressure gauge now reads around 60 psi and starts to groan like there's too much pressure. I crank the engine again and of course it doesn't start. I keep repeating this and the fuel pump keeps priming and the more I do this, the louder the groaning from the pump becomes. How is the pressure from the line being relieved? If the fuel injectors were squirting, wouldn't that relieve some of the pressure? Is the pump supposed to be priming everytime I turn on the ignition? What is the pump supposed to be doing while the engine is cranking? What is the fuel pressure supposed to be doing while the engine is cranking? Is it supposed to go down? The reason I ask is because my fuel gauge does not move at all while the engine is cranking. I hooked up a noid light to the injector connector so there is a signal going to the injectors. PLEASE HELP!!!
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As far as I can tell my pump always primes when I turn the key on. It almsot sounds as if your inlet and return lines are backwards but you do get pressure so I am not sure. Also, if your fpr is closed too much your car will not start. This happened to me before after I installed an afpr. Maybe someone slse can figure out the rest. I tried my best. Sorry if none of my answers help.
#3
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Originally posted by CaptPicardsZ28
As far as I can tell my pump always primes when I turn the key on. It almsot sounds as if your inlet and return lines are backwards but you do get pressure so I am not sure. Also, if your fpr is closed too much your car will not start. This happened to me before after I installed an afpr. Maybe someone slse can figure out the rest. I tried my best. Sorry if none of my answers help.
As far as I can tell my pump always primes when I turn the key on. It almsot sounds as if your inlet and return lines are backwards but you do get pressure so I am not sure. Also, if your fpr is closed too much your car will not start. This happened to me before after I installed an afpr. Maybe someone slse can figure out the rest. I tried my best. Sorry if none of my answers help.
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
I hope that you changed fuel pumps when you converted. There is a serious difference in the fuel pressure between the two systems. The TBI runs at around 13# IIRC, where the TPI runs from 39# to 43.5# depending on the year. If you haven’t changed the pump, that’s the first thing to take care of. Also, a stock fuel pump is not going to be enough for a performance 350. I have a Buick Grand National pump and it’s too small......
#6
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Originally posted by Captain C
I hope that you changed fuel pumps when you converted. There is a serious difference in the fuel pressure between the two systems. The TBI runs at around 13# IIRC, where the TPI runs from 39# to 43.5# depending on the year. If you haven’t changed the pump, that’s the first thing to take care of. Also, a stock fuel pump is not going to be enough for a performance 350. I have a Buick Grand National pump and it’s too small......
I hope that you changed fuel pumps when you converted. There is a serious difference in the fuel pressure between the two systems. The TBI runs at around 13# IIRC, where the TPI runs from 39# to 43.5# depending on the year. If you haven’t changed the pump, that’s the first thing to take care of. Also, a stock fuel pump is not going to be enough for a performance 350. I have a Buick Grand National pump and it’s too small......
#7
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Originally posted by Trickster
Your fuel pressure line is 3/8" diameter and your fuel return line is 5/16" diameter.
Your fuel pressure line is 3/8" diameter and your fuel return line is 5/16" diameter.
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#8
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
I'm in the same predicament.... However, if webshots works you might be able to see something. The top hose is the larger hose... Not as good a picture as I could get if I were home right now. I'd get you a clear shot of everything......
Excuse the dirt, the hood had been up for 4 months by this time, and my cousin was grinding the crack filler on my drive way and covered the engine in crud....
Driver's side engine compartment
Excuse the dirt, the hood had been up for 4 months by this time, and my cousin was grinding the crack filler on my drive way and covered the engine in crud....
Driver's side engine compartment
#9
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Originally posted by Captain C
I'm in the same predicament.... However, if webshots works you might be able to see something. The top hose is the larger hose... Not as good a picture as I could get if I were home right now. I'd get you a clear shot of everything......
Excuse the dirt, the hood had been up for 4 months by this time, and my cousin was grinding the crack filler on my drive way and covered the engine in crud....
Driver's side engine compartment
I'm in the same predicament.... However, if webshots works you might be able to see something. The top hose is the larger hose... Not as good a picture as I could get if I were home right now. I'd get you a clear shot of everything......
Excuse the dirt, the hood had been up for 4 months by this time, and my cousin was grinding the crack filler on my drive way and covered the engine in crud....
Driver's side engine compartment
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
I'll have to take some new ones when I get home that might help. Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to detail the engine compartment yet. Right after I put the engine together this last time, I blew the rearend......Again. Once I fixed the rearend, I blew the transmission..... Again. Still waiting for my new transmission to show up
#11
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Originally posted by Captain C
I'll have to take some new ones when I get home that might help. Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to detail the engine compartment yet. Right after I put the engine together this last time, I blew the rearend......Again. Once I fixed the rearend, I blew the transmission..... Again. Still waiting for my new transmission to show up
I'll have to take some new ones when I get home that might help. Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to detail the engine compartment yet. Right after I put the engine together this last time, I blew the rearend......Again. Once I fixed the rearend, I blew the transmission..... Again. Still waiting for my new transmission to show up
#12
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Originally posted by Captain C
I'm in the same predicament.... However, if webshots works you might be able to see something. The top hose is the larger hose... Not as good a picture as I could get if I were home right now. I'd get you a clear shot of everything......
Excuse the dirt, the hood had been up for 4 months by this time, and my cousin was grinding the crack filler on my drive way and covered the engine in crud....
Driver's side engine compartment
I'm in the same predicament.... However, if webshots works you might be able to see something. The top hose is the larger hose... Not as good a picture as I could get if I were home right now. I'd get you a clear shot of everything......
Excuse the dirt, the hood had been up for 4 months by this time, and my cousin was grinding the crack filler on my drive way and covered the engine in crud....
Driver's side engine compartment
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Originally posted by pwdbychevy
I'm at work right now so I can't check the sizes but I have the longer hose as my return line. Does any body have any pictures they can attach?
I'm at work right now so I can't check the sizes but I have the longer hose as my return line. Does any body have any pictures they can attach?
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Car: 1985 IROC-Z
Engine: 1989 350 4 bolt roller block
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4 Road Race with Edge 9.5" 2800 stall lockup converter
It was really late when i got home last night so I didn't get any pictures to email to you. On the way to work I remembered taking some pictures of the intake and stuff while it was out of the car. The digital camera I used at the time wasn't very good, but it may help. Unfortunately, I didn't remember them until I got to work.......
I would download the picture off the web and email it to you but all it shows are the two lines as they come off the hardlines from the gas tank. You can't see them attach to the fuel rail. One thing to consider, You can't attach them wrong as they will only go on one way. I would consider backing off on the pressure regulator first and then checking for kinks in the return line. After that, double check your wiring harness to make sure you have everything wired correctly....
I would download the picture off the web and email it to you but all it shows are the two lines as they come off the hardlines from the gas tank. You can't see them attach to the fuel rail. One thing to consider, You can't attach them wrong as they will only go on one way. I would consider backing off on the pressure regulator first and then checking for kinks in the return line. After that, double check your wiring harness to make sure you have everything wired correctly....
#15
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Originally posted by Captain C
It was really late when i got home last night so I didn't get any pictures to email to you. On the way to work I remembered taking some pictures of the intake and stuff while it was out of the car. The digital camera I used at the time wasn't very good, but it may help. Unfortunately, I didn't remember them until I got to work.......
I would download the picture off the web and email it to you but all it shows are the two lines as they come off the hardlines from the gas tank. You can't see them attach to the fuel rail. One thing to consider, You can't attach them wrong as they will only go on one way. I would consider backing off on the pressure regulator first and then checking for kinks in the return line. After that, double check your wiring harness to make sure you have everything wired correctly....
It was really late when i got home last night so I didn't get any pictures to email to you. On the way to work I remembered taking some pictures of the intake and stuff while it was out of the car. The digital camera I used at the time wasn't very good, but it may help. Unfortunately, I didn't remember them until I got to work.......
I would download the picture off the web and email it to you but all it shows are the two lines as they come off the hardlines from the gas tank. You can't see them attach to the fuel rail. One thing to consider, You can't attach them wrong as they will only go on one way. I would consider backing off on the pressure regulator first and then checking for kinks in the return line. After that, double check your wiring harness to make sure you have everything wired correctly....
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by pwdbychevy
I did a wiring check and everything came out fine. I get a code 12 in diagnostic mode but something weird happened. When I ground the aldl terminals and turn the ignition on, one of my cooling fans came on. When I take the scanner out, the fan turns off.
I did a wiring check and everything came out fine. I get a code 12 in diagnostic mode but something weird happened. When I ground the aldl terminals and turn the ignition on, one of my cooling fans came on. When I take the scanner out, the fan turns off.
#17
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What year TPI did you use? The later ones, 89 and newer, have the VATS deal in them and the injectors won't pulse without a signal to the ECM. If you are getting 60 psi at the fuel rail something is not right, the regulator should bypass and keep pressure about 50 or so until the engine starts, then cut it to about 40 or so on the vacuum signal from the engine. The 12 code from the ECM is a normal code, just a hello.
#18
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Originally posted by Trickster
That is normal for the fans to come on when you put a scanner on the ALDL or jumper pins "A" & "B".
That is normal for the fans to come on when you put a scanner on the ALDL or jumper pins "A" & "B".
#19
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Originally posted by tom3
What year TPI did you use? The later ones, 89 and newer, have the VATS deal in them and the injectors won't pulse without a signal to the ECM. If you are getting 60 psi at the fuel rail something is not right, the regulator should bypass and keep pressure about 50 or so until the engine starts, then cut it to about 40 or so on the vacuum signal from the engine. The 12 code from the ECM is a normal code, just a hello.
What year TPI did you use? The later ones, 89 and newer, have the VATS deal in them and the injectors won't pulse without a signal to the ECM. If you are getting 60 psi at the fuel rail something is not right, the regulator should bypass and keep pressure about 50 or so until the engine starts, then cut it to about 40 or so on the vacuum signal from the engine. The 12 code from the ECM is a normal code, just a hello.
#20
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Something is not right here. When I turn the ignition on and the pump primes for a 2 seconds, my fuel gauge goes all the way up to around 70 psi and then bleeds back down to around 40 psi. Is that normal? WTF?
#22
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Originally posted by Trickster
No, that is not normal, it is way to much pressure for your system. What type fuel pump do you have in there?
No, that is not normal, it is way to much pressure for your system. What type fuel pump do you have in there?
#24
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Originally posted by Trickster
I wonder if your homemade AFPR might be the cause of your problems!!!!!!!!
I wonder if your homemade AFPR might be the cause of your problems!!!!!!!!
That's what I wondered but how would it cause it to bleed back like that? I haven't yet to get the car started so I haven't been able to set the pressure correctly. Are IAC valves supposed to be ticking when the ignition is on? Mine does. I have alot of troubleshooting to do.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
On mine with the stock regulator, the pressure will shoot up to about 43 PSI when the pump primes and then drop to about 39 and hold. This is normal since there will be a little bleed off. Your pump is shooting almost twice the pressure to the regulator that mine is. Usually about 50 -52 PSI is the max these regulators should be set at or the system won't operate worth a crap.
#26
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Originally posted by Trickster
On mine with the stock regulator, the pressure will shoot up to about 43 PSI when the pump primes and then drop to about 39 and hold. This is normal since there will be a little bleed off. Your pump is shooting almost twice the pressure to the regulator that mine is. Usually about 50 -52 PSI is the max these regulators should be set at or the system won't operate worth a crap.
On mine with the stock regulator, the pressure will shoot up to about 43 PSI when the pump primes and then drop to about 39 and hold. This is normal since there will be a little bleed off. Your pump is shooting almost twice the pressure to the regulator that mine is. Usually about 50 -52 PSI is the max these regulators should be set at or the system won't operate worth a crap.
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Car: 1988 Pontiac Firebird Formula
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Screwing it IN will INCREASE fuel pressure. You want just the opposite.....
I suspect a restriction in the return line may be causing your high fuel pressure. Check 'em, and make sure nothing is kinked, etc.
I suspect a restriction in the return line may be causing your high fuel pressure. Check 'em, and make sure nothing is kinked, etc.
#28
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Originally posted by ploegi
Screwing it IN will INCREASE fuel pressure. You want just the opposite.....
I suspect a restriction in the return line may be causing your high fuel pressure. Check 'em, and make sure nothing is kinked, etc.
Screwing it IN will INCREASE fuel pressure. You want just the opposite.....
I suspect a restriction in the return line may be causing your high fuel pressure. Check 'em, and make sure nothing is kinked, etc.
#29
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Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Pro-Built Automatic/Vigilante 2800
The car cranks correct?? Maybe the injectors are not getting a signal or maybe there is no spark. I'd check for spark if you've got spark check to make sure your injectors are getting a signal from the ECM. A fast way to check for spark spray some carb cleaner down your are cleaner and crank the car over if it starts up then you have spark.
#30
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Originally posted by grafx
The car cranks correct?? Maybe the injectors are not getting a signal or maybe there is no spark. I'd check for spark if you've got spark check to make sure your injectors are getting a signal from the ECM. A fast way to check for spark spray some carb cleaner down your are cleaner and crank the car over if it starts up then you have spark.
The car cranks correct?? Maybe the injectors are not getting a signal or maybe there is no spark. I'd check for spark if you've got spark check to make sure your injectors are getting a signal from the ECM. A fast way to check for spark spray some carb cleaner down your are cleaner and crank the car over if it starts up then you have spark.
#31
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fuel injectors not working
Okay folks here's an update. I pulled the fuel rail with fuel lines still attached and turned on the ignition. None of the injectors are leaking. A very good thing. I placed a towel under the injectors and decided to crank the engine over to see if the injectors are firing and guess what? NONE OF THE INJECTORS ARE FIRING! What are the chances of all eight injectors not working at all? Keep in mind that the noid light blinks on all eight connectors when cranking the engine and the fuel pressure gauge show 42 psi while cranking. Could it be that all the injectors are bad? Anybody else have this problem before?
#32
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Hello Pwdbychevy,
I know these are probably going to be some dumb questions here, but since I haven't seen them addressed anywhere in this topic I have to ask. Are those new injectors, have you checked the OHM resistance on them, what size are they, and who makes them? Just curious!!
I know these are probably going to be some dumb questions here, but since I haven't seen them addressed anywhere in this topic I have to ask. Are those new injectors, have you checked the OHM resistance on them, what size are they, and who makes them? Just curious!!
#33
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Originally posted by Trickster
Hello Pwdbychevy,
I know these are probably going to be some dumb questions here, but since I haven't seen them addressed anywhere in this topic I have to ask. Are those new injectors, have you checked the OHM resistance on them, what size are they, and who makes them? Just curious!!
Hello Pwdbychevy,
I know these are probably going to be some dumb questions here, but since I haven't seen them addressed anywhere in this topic I have to ask. Are those new injectors, have you checked the OHM resistance on them, what size are they, and who makes them? Just curious!!
#34
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
They are the 22 lb. injectors and the resistance of 16.8 is good. If they haven't been used in a while, they may be stuck. Try tapping lightly on the sides of each one and see if they work. You can also hold one with your fingers while cranking to see if you can feel it clicking.
#35
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Originally posted by Trickster
They are the 22 lb. injectors and the resistance of 16.8 is good. If they haven't been used in a while, they may be stuck. Try tapping lightly on the sides of each one and see if they work. You can also hold one with your fingers while cranking to see if you can feel it clicking.
They are the 22 lb. injectors and the resistance of 16.8 is good. If they haven't been used in a while, they may be stuck. Try tapping lightly on the sides of each one and see if they work. You can also hold one with your fingers while cranking to see if you can feel it clicking.
Last edited by pwdbychevy; 02-24-2004 at 08:18 AM.
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could be a possability, try some carb cleaner on the undersides of the injectors
#37
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Originally posted by grafx
could be a possability, try some carb cleaner on the undersides of the injectors
could be a possability, try some carb cleaner on the undersides of the injectors
#39
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Originally posted by Trickster
Cool!!!!!!!!!
I see by your profile that you're down in Tampa. Not out at MacDill by any chance?
Cool!!!!!!!!!
I see by your profile that you're down in Tampa. Not out at MacDill by any chance?
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