And the final product. Keep in mind you'll need to get an alternator from an 87 F-body because of the mount positions for the bracket. And you'll need to swap the old alternator pulley to the new alternator (6 rib vs. 5 rib pulley) Tension is easy to adjust and is MUCH more stable than the previous setup above, but still NO slippage. I'm going to get rid of the stock power steering bracket and going with a non-adjustable Alan Grove bracket to clean it up more. I'll post those up when I get it all in.

 

With everything in place, it's still not as obtrusive as the stock setup.

 

Oh man, THAT'S NICE!:hail:

 

I just did the ultra schnazzy like iroczz3 did originally. the setup works great. I used a different tensioner system though, I made a slip system like what was on the old GM products. No problems with it yet and no movement. I'm gonna brace the bolt to the head when I get some time just to make sure it doesn't move. Iroczz3 how come you used that expensive turnbuckle? They sell ones just like that at home depot for 99 cents.

 

I need to do a route to get rid of the a/c i dunno about the air pump for now since i have to pass e-check. I could possibly delete the pump also tho cause once i pass echeck next time i will have a new engine anyway. My a/c doesnt work and is makin noise i gotta get rid of it.

 

Yeah, I looked at the turnbuckles at Home Depot but couldn't find one that had 2 jam nuts at each end of the turnbuckle. All of them had one jam nut and I couldn't find a reverse threaded nut to use, so I just used the March piece instead. Yes, I'm picky like that, LOL.

Definitely find a way to brace that, or eventually the bolt will fatigue. When I took my alternator off the long bolt looked slightly bent near the threads. So I came up with the setup I have now.

BTW, got any pics?

 

wow talk about a old thread.

Matt deff post some pic's. Wouldnt mind seieng my old bracket in use now.

BTW any luck with the oil problem?

 

Not that it really matters for the rest of this thread, but the Stock TPI belt routing diagram in the first post incorrect. At least it's different from mine. My stock belt routing goes around the WP like the Smog Pump Delete routing. Is this something that is different for different year cars?

 

no, actually, thats correct. think about it.. its touching the back side of the belt.



but the factory wrapped them around 2 diffrent ways.. as far as i know, theres no reason behind it, its just what the person doing the belt felt like.

 

Doh! You replied before I could edit my post. After I posted I looked at the pic again and realized that myself. Oh well.

 

Does any1 know the part number for the smog pump delete routing belt.

 

Part number will probably vary between manufacturers, but the length you want is 96.8 (inches I guess). Stock belt is 98.6

 

.Thanx yeh if any1 had any PN i could cross reference it. That should work tho

 

anybody know the part numbers for the smog pump delete pulley, or the size of the belt to remove the smog pump for an 91 z28 350tpi? thanks, tom

 

Well if u get the delete pulley u dont need a different belt there is a sticky on the pulleys.

 

Here check this site
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...39#post1944839

 

i'd post pics of the setup but i only have a webcam, no digital cam. Next time somebody comes over with a camera i'll see if they'll take some pics for me. Still have the blowby problem. Probably take the engine apart in a couple weeks and see if i have to rering it or rebuild it or what's going on. If it needs a rebuild i'll just make it a 383.

 

Bumping this again cuz I like this set up, any probelms with running the grooved side of the belt over the flat tensioner pulley?

 

Hey does anyone here have a 87 trans am/ camaro 5.7L tpi, with non serpentine belt system? And if so, may i please see a diagram or a pic. Im converting from carburated to TPI, and i need the brackets for the Alternator. I went ton 11 junk yards in my area and no one has anything close. Im probably gonna have to go to a swap meet in PA. Any insight would be helpful, Thanks,

 

E-mail me I have a 87 iroc Alt. bracket. Its the Small one like this

 

Hey thanks for the pic. man really nice set up!!! :hail: . Can i ask what year that water pump is? I have a Long Style water pump for an 86 model year and alternator brackets from an 86 Carburated trans am. It looks like its the same belt routing on urs to my old carbed 5.0. My intake is the vortec sdpc with the threaded hole for the alternator bracket to go on the Pass. side. I thought the intake manifolds from 85 to 89 were the same, but i guess im wrong. i dont want to have to drill in the manifold for the brackets and ive hit up 11 junk yards for these brackets,(stupid long island junk yard rules to crush cars that are 10yrs or older) and i work at a chevy dealer, and their discontinued. If anyone can give me some more insight i would very much appreciate it. Ive been waiting 1 1/2 yrs to get this thing running and im almost there.

 

Chris.. Isnt that joshs old car?

 

vortec77,

Not my car. Like Matt said Its a buddy Johs' old car. Thats all stock 87 Pullies/belts.

 

I made a mistake, I meant I need the alternator brackets to go on the drivers side

 

Ah well sorry but I cant help ya there. Howerever if you do want to convert to 91-92 Serp setup I might be able to help you there.

I have everything you would need. Except AC and Smog pump.

 

Thanks, but im considering converting to serpentine as a last option. I already have the long style waterpump on the block, im trying not to spend a whole lot more than i already have to

 

where can i find a 6 rib tensioner pulley thats the same size as the stock flat tensioner pulleys???? autozone didnt have them (those guys for the most part dont really know what they are talking about) but i dont really want to run the grooves on the belt over the flat of the tensioner.

 

Does someone make an electric water pump for a 305 TPI? This would be cool to take more load off the pulley system.

 

Yah a 305 and a 350 small block will take the same water pump.

 

So an LT1 electric water pump will work?

 

No a lt1 is a genII block you have a genI. Thats like asking if a ls1 water pump will fit.

 

IROCZZ3...any updates? I'm still looking at running your second setup with the electric bracket, idler pulley, and a new PS pump bracket.

I guess there is no way to make the newer style alt work with the electric bracket?

 

wow, talk about bringing back an OLD thread......

 

Mr. Observant today aren't we?

 

I just follow Mr Dude around to argue about LS1's!!!!!!

Seriously though, talk about old thread! I've since decided to run a March set-up, but of course, i haven't bought it yet!

 

i get bored.




oh, and i have the uber shazzy ultra cool setup now.... it uses all OEM brackets... the alternator is mounted low, LOW next to the steering box.. the PS pump is smaller, right over it, with a small external reservoir.... the waterpump has a tensioner bolted onto it.... and theres nothing mounted to the passenger side head...




just your standard LS1 Fbody setup.

lol, to be honest, it would be nicer if they kept the old style GM alternator that the thirdgens came with stock... its a nice reliable one, instead of this modern POS.

 

Yea yea just rub it in! I hate my front accessories so much I think I'll just have to buy an LS1to remedy the situation.

Seriously though, I also have decided to run a March setup when I sell that kidney
I will run the alt bracket for use with the electric waterpump but I just have to buy a new damn alternator

 

Holy crap, I forgot about this thread! Well I never got around to getting a new PS pump bracket because I no longer have my car....sorry man, lol!! So I rarely come to the boards anymore. But it did work well while I had it, no slippage at all

 

i know this is a old thread,but im doing a smog delete with a/c delete pulley....and this diagram in the 1st post is the same as 305 TBI right?i mean looks the same to me.

 

Ahhhh.....old thread. Only thing better is when you're the guy startin' 'em!!!!!!!

All the serpentine set-ups that I've ever seen are the same, regardless of motor. 305/350 TPI/TBI

 

I know this is an old thread but I wanted to share because of what IROCZZ3 did it gave me inspiration to do something I've been wanting to do for a long time. Like many others I was using the factory accessory brackets with no A/C compressor, using a A/C delete pulley and no smog pump, The only part that I needed really was the belt tensioner. Not that I'm expecting a tremendous gain but by removing the extra weight and the parasitic horsepower loss of removing the tensioner can only be a benefit. Using a kit from ICT Billet for an electric water pump I modified the long spacers supplied with the ICT kit for the alternator added a idler pulley to gain more wrap around the water pump pulley. To bring the power steering pump inline with the other pulleys I fabricated a 1" aluminum block.

 

i have been running something similar ish. no power steering pump though. crank, water pump and alternator. added the tension pulley as an idler pulley where the alternator would bolt. (under rad hose) then made a plate to make the alternator adjustable. is it the best design? no. does it work and used what i had in the garage? yup!

 

Doing some work on a buddies car and when he bought it there was already a non-stock belt installed. One of the things he wanted me to modify ( this time ) was his pass side Serpentine bracket. Here's a stock Thirdgen bracket that I cut-to-fit today.







Began by cutting down a V-Belt Alternator Mount and using it as a spacer to add some strength,..... than I cut the bracket till it seemed to be the best fit while retaining as much aluminum as possible. I'm sure I could have cut more,.... there are 3 strong mounting points and the only thing on the bracket is an idler pulley.





I put a T5 and 3.70s in this car and I was sure to get the RPMs above the yellow line on the test drive after converting it to a stick (and he's not exactly "easy" on he car),....... hasn't had a problem with it yet. ( He's been driving on it for about a year. ) You can see the Belt Part number in the pics.

 

Is it weird that I started this thread 18 years ago? ...Hope you all are staying safe and healthy during these times.

 

Still useful today!!!

 

So I picked up a 60695 belt to try this and it is much too loose, is there some other modification to the mounting or setup of the tensioner?

 

Nope,........ He's been running this set-up before I posted to this thread and is still running the exact same parts today. I just hacked the bracket to remove what wasn't being used. Is the belt run the same as it's shown in the pics I posted ??

Over the winter I located and purchased the upper Intake-to-bracket rod-type brace that adds some strength/support for the bracket as well as the 060695 belt and plan to install it in my 88. I feel this bracket is important because it provides a 3rd mounting point to secure the modified bracket. When I finally manage to get around to installing it I'll re-post here with the results.



* I also picked up a ribbed idler pulley,... my buddy didn't use one, but I intend too.

 

Maybe my crank pulley is slightly smaller or something, I double checked I had it the same way, I just need a shorter belt.
UPDATE: So I routed mine like John in RI (It appears he has a different tensioner pulley than me)

I used a Dayco 5060690/6PK1755 belt AND I replaced the idler/tension pulley with a ribbed one Dayco P/N 89051 (my tensioner pulley was the smooth one with no lip to keep the belt on)
The belt is VERY tight to get on and has a little slack once it is on, everything seems to work really well without any squealing or slipping
Ac Compressor was promptly removed.

 

I use the GM smooth smog-pump delete idler pulley to get a little more belt-wrap around the AC pulley, for more traction for driving the AC compressor. also to support that long span from the crank to the AC compressor pulley, reduce belt flapping.

 

for some convoluted reason, ended up with perimeter-bolt valve covers, and tall rocker covers. had interference between rear of alternator, power stud, and valve cover, so made a bracket to "roll" the alternator over a little to get clearance for the valve cover. it's still close, but whenever I have to remove the valve cover for whatever reason (e.g. valve lash), I disconnect the battery. On the back-side of the alternator, fabbed a new bracket to support the alternator to the header double-ended stud.