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Pro Toplines, elec. w/p, = Big problems.

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Old 08-21-2003 | 11:21 AM
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Pro Toplines, elec. w/p, = Big problems.

Well for starters the 200cc heads have some interference w/ the puchrods. So I had to play w/ that. Turns out the bolt holes on the pass. side head don't line up w/ a serpentine set up. Adding to my discust is the elec. w/p that I bought and is now on the car. The mounting point on the w/p are a little beefier so the brackets didn't fit untill I broke out the Dremel. Not to mention my old center bolt valve covers didn't fit. So I replaced those w/ tall ones. Now the "hot" bolt comming off of my alt. is hitting the tall v/c. So I whip out the dremel once more. No more bolt. I'm not worried about it. My main problem is the belt routing. I can't find a damn thing to work. I talked to people from March, and they have nothing. All the kits they have are $380+ and/or require me to loose my power steering. There has to be something out there that will work. I'm trying to keep my alt. p/s, and obviously crank pulley. That's all I have left. I didn't think it was going to be that hard. Apparently its the PITA in the world. Please someone help. Anyone. Name your price. I need p/s.
Old 08-21-2003 | 11:48 AM
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From: Fairview Heights Illinois
Car: 1986 Irocz
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.25:1
You have a couple of low cost options.

First is to use a normal waterpump with an electric drive,
see pic


Or just realize that manual steering really isn't that bad at all when you have removed some weight from the front of your car.
Seriously, a good manual box is very easy to steer.
You also lose a good 30 lbs in the process.



Anything else and you'll probably need a custom crank pulley and make your own adjustable brackets.
Old 08-21-2003 | 12:25 PM
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
I'm not running skinnies on the front and don't intend to. Where could I find A manual steering rack?

So your saying either go back to the oginal pump and put that rediculous contraption on it. after sending back my elec. pump or I could loose power steering. 2 things that I wanted to keep. So nothing else will work? There has to be a better way.
Old 08-21-2003 | 12:59 PM
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From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
If you have a Meziere electric water pump then give them a call and ask what it would cost to convert it over to the one that has the idler pulley. Mez makes electric pumps for TPI cars ... and they put an idler pulley on them so that you can keep the stock belt routing.

Other than that - you'll have to go to a custom March setup unless you rig up your own tensioner w/ idler pulley to make a belt work.

Tim
Old 08-21-2003 | 01:04 PM
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From: Maryland
Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Coming from somebody who used a manual steering box on their thirdgen (ME!) ... if you are using stock size rims and tires (245's) then:

- It's very easy to steer as long as you are moving
- It's difficult to steer if you are at a stop and are NOT moving (parking the car)
- It just feels dangerous to me. When I needed to 'dodge' something there isn't much response. You have to really crank on it with a lot of rotation to get a good emergency turn out of it.
- Highway driving almost feels like stock as you are going down the road.
- In town driving sux (IMHO)

... I'm happy that the power steering is back on my car. I could deal with the manual box - but I didn't like it.

Tim
Old 08-21-2003 | 01:09 PM
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From: Dale City, VA
Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Looking to get ride of your manual streering? I'm interested.

I'm running the Proform w/p. Cheap version of the Meziere. The parts (pulley) should still work right? I believe they have the same internals.

The other problems was that the pass. head didn't have the correct bolt pattern. 2 of the holes are close but the 3 (inner most) is over an 1" off. And the bottom of my bracket was snapped when the motor was pulled. So the 2 bolts at the bottom are useless unless I can JB weld the bracket together. I stuck in a hard spot.

Thanks for the help guys.
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