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Plug gap& heat range sugg?

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Old 07-26-2003, 10:59 AM
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Car: '89 IROC, '14 LTZ Burb, '18 H6 Outb
Engine: 355 TPI /w Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Plug gap& heat range sugg?

I've just rebuilt my L98- it is a true one with vette heads now.
It's got 10:1 and I'm running a 6AL and GM type blaster coil.
I'm still tuning it and I'm worried about my setup.
I'm running stock heat range and a .050 gap.
Should I change it and if so how?
Old 07-26-2003, 12:00 PM
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With the smaller chamber and higher compression I would run 1 heat range cooler. Try out an NGK UR5, it should do you just fine. What are you running for a cam?
Old 07-27-2003, 09:16 AM
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Car: '89 IROC, '14 LTZ Burb, '18 H6 Outb
Engine: 355 TPI /w Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Crane Powermax 3032.
Old 07-27-2003, 10:41 AM
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Car: '88 T/A and '90 T/A
Engine: LB9/383
Transmission: T5/700R4
NGK TR55's or Autolite 103's.
Old 07-27-2003, 11:16 AM
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Car: '89 IROC, '14 LTZ Burb, '18 H6 Outb
Engine: 355 TPI /w Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
thanks will do- now should I gap to .060? What should I look for to tell?
Old 07-27-2003, 01:52 PM
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I'd gap them at .050-.055
Old 07-27-2003, 03:12 PM
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by NastyL98_T/A
NGK TR55's or Autolite 103's.
Not sure he'd want to run tapered-seat plugs on aluminum heads designed for flat gasket-seat plugs...that "T" in the NGK part# stands for "tapered". It'll not seal well, and likely damage the head's sealing surface.

I ran NGK FR4 and Bosch FR8DPX plugs (stock heat range, the Bosch'es were platinum) on my 'Vette L98 heads with no problems, nice coloration and good longevity even during track use. The Bosch platinums felt a wee bit better on the butt dyno but made no improvement in 1/4mile times.
Old 07-27-2003, 03:42 PM
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kevinc is right! Totally forgot you were working with alluminum L98s, you need a gasketed plug. I would try the NGK FR5 first. It is still 1 heat range cooler then stock and should work well with your compression and cam. Start your gap at .050 and work from there as you pull your plugs for inspection after some burn in miles.
Old 07-27-2003, 05:35 PM
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Some additional info I dug up out in the garage from recent experimenting...since swapping to AFR heads the stock heat-range plugs were reading like they were a tad too hot and #4 was cracking the insulator cone during racing so I started researching options.

Only supply of non-stock heat range plugs I can get locally is Autolite www.autolite.com so I dug up the following:

#3926 stock heat range
#3924 one heat range colder
#3923 two heat ranges colder

No such part# as a 3925 for some reason.

I'm currently running 3923 and they read fine thus far, not glazing up or cracking like the FR4 or FR8DPX did but I haven't had it back on a road course w/ them yet.

They're $1.49 per 2-pack @ WalMart, I'm running mine @ 0.040" gap w/ my all-Delco ignition. With hotter aftermarket parts like an MSD box or coil you should be able to up the gap.
Old 07-28-2003, 06:03 AM
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I'm running exactly what Kevin is running. What's up Kev? You appear to be in a good mood today

Tim
Old 07-28-2003, 11:01 AM
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by TRAXION
I'm running exactly what Kevin is running. What's up Kev? You appear to be in a good mood today

Tim
And I got the initial point to the Autolites from TRAXION, so props right back at ya.

Strangely, I posted this and the thrash at the other guy on the same day...musta been that caffeine withdrawal finally passing.
Old 07-28-2003, 11:31 AM
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Car: '89 IROC, '14 LTZ Burb, '18 H6 Outb
Engine: 355 TPI /w Vortec
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27
Thanks for the corr info.
:hail:
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